a somewhat contrary view about the 2006 vintage in Burgundy & Beaujolais

Bwood

Bwood
Ok, so vintage generalizations are a little stupid, but I'll make some anyway.

I don't take any wine publications anymore, but I keep reading on wine boards and on blogs about the remarkably nice early-drinking 2006 vintage in Burgundy and Beaujolais (and when I say "Burgundy" I mean wines I drink, which means red wines of a handful of producers and a lesser number of white wines, mostly from the Macon and low-end Chablis). I disagree, at least somewhat, with this overall view. Not with the "early drinking" part, more with the level of "niceness."

My '06 take is based on anecdotal evidence, a sampling of a decent number of wines, and a couple haphazard tastings. I may yet be proven wrong as the wines develop (from both regions), but many of the '06 Beaujolais seem a bit over-extracted, some are a bit overripe and soft, and a few make me think "rot." I'd throw out the Tete '06 Julienas as an example of this. I almost always think of Tete Julienas as one of the top 3-4 cru Beaujolais wines in most vintages, but the '06 makes me think of some of the really fat Vissoux Cru wines I often don't like with perhaps a bit more of a ripeness issue (I do almost always adore the Vissoux Cuvee Traditionelle, in contrast). At times, the 06s make me think of some west coast pinot noirs/syrahs. Thus far, I'd generally rather drink the '07 wines from my favorite Beaujolais producers than the '06s.

With the Burgundy producers I've tried, the same issues seem to be there for me although there have been plenty of wines that seemed perfectly good for early drinking and the rot issue seems less of a problem. But I was even a little underwhelmed by a couple Mugnier wines I tried (I will no doubt come to regret giving concrete examples). I liked some wines of favorite producers perfectly ok, and I certainly won't be pouring them down the drain, but I will be drinking them fairly soon, and to the extent I find money lying on the sidewalk I will be waiting for racier, more precise, more red-fruited, and less extracted wines. Or buying more '01s.

I might even take the issues of ripeness and alcohol issues of a "typical" '04 Burgundy over those of the '06s. Or at the least, my decision would be on a case-by-case basis. My own private Idaho may be odd, but I'll be drinking wines there that I enjoy.

As Carson might say, Y'06B&BMMV.
 
It's good to have a friend, someone to talk to when the real world is closing in.

My friend "Carson" is a physicist. He's a really cool dude, you'd like him!
 
My friend "Carson" is very real, too. He was the second-best-man at my wedding. He does crazy computer-graphic investigations into the muscle memory of nematode hearts!
 
originally posted by Chris Coad:
My friend "Carson" is very real, too. He was the second-best-man at my wedding. He does crazy computer-graphic investigations into the muscle memory of nematode hearts!

Did you will him your second best bed?

Can you post pix?
 
Sadly, I have no second best bed, so he's shit out of luck.

But if you're really interested in pics, here's my Carson. In the middle.

3Goons.jpg
Yours?
 
originally posted by Chris Coad:
Sadly, I have no second best bed, so he's shit out of luck.

But if you're really interested in pics, here's my Carson. In the middle.

3Goons.jpg
Yours?

Dude, he looks medieval!
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
Very good work was done by Alain Burguet in 2006.

Is that it!?

S. Cathiard turned out some nice wines as well.

But let's be honest, 2006 is an expensive red Burgundy vintage in this country, the quality is for the most part only fair (speaking about the Cote d'Or), and the wines are still young.

If you were to ask me for the name of a domaine that produced wines where quality was high across the board amongst the bottlings, wines that you could approach now or hold, and where the pricing was not stratospheric (although it was not cheap, either) - in other words if you were looking for the producer in the sweet spot for 2006 - then I would answer Alain Burguet.

Alain Burguet is to 2006 as Mugneret-Gibourg was to 2004, in my opinion.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Chris Coad:
Sadly, I have no second best bed, so he's shit out of luck.

But if you're really interested in pics, here's my Carson. In the middle.

3Goons.jpg
Yours?

Dude, he looks medieval!

We're all medieval. I'm on the right. It's really old, but it's all I've got.

Appy polly logies for the threadjack, Bwood. They asked.
 
I haven't had enough 2005 Burgundy to have much of a take on the vintage. I sucked it up and went for a few favorite 1ers and then stocked up on the likes of Lafouge and Pavelot. I only tried a few to get a sense of the terrain. For me 2006 was just too expensive, so I sat it out.

But I have had a fair amount of Beaujolais, and I have not had the same problems you describe. I haven't sampled widely across the region, but my benchmark domains did very well in 2006, some, like Lapierre, I preferred to their 2005 counterparts. Brun was Brun in both cases; the regular Vissoux was stellar both years. Foillard was funky when it first got here in 2006, but when the Cotes de Py sorted itself out, it was its usual, terrific self. Coudert was beautiful in 2006, if not quite as chunky as I recall 2005. I don't think I've had Tete in 2006; for me they can be a little uneven, terrific most of the time but not always.
 
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