TN: Covid-19 era wines (July and early August 2020)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
At home.

Aeris (Rhys-Salvo Foti) 2014 Etna Bianco Superiore - a richness is present here, like Gavi or white burgundy, but more young and fruity and vigorous; with some air the palate heads for Montlouis, with tarragon and resin in the finish; nice wine (but pricey)

Foreau 1997 Vouvray Moelleux Reserve - color of whiskey, very very slight maderization in the nose but the palate is perfect: apricots simmered in honey, glyceral mouthfeel, acidity faded but not entirely gone, the label says 12% but I doubt it's more than 11%, the finish is long and sweet but not cloying, it's OTH but still way high up on it

Pavelot 2004 Savigny-Les-Beaunes 1er "La Dominode" - no note but I recall it drank very well, medium-weight, no greenies

Coudert (Clos de la Roilette) 2011 Fleurie "Cuvee Tardive" - cool blue fruit, ultra-fine tannins, definitely a gamay flavor profile: table grapes, bay leaf, sage, a whiff of bubble gum, fantastic; Day 2: fruitier, very grapey, tannins a bit grippier, a tad less interesting

Koehler-Ruprecht 2016 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Kabinett Trocken - 5 123 147 17 17, 11.5% pfalz - Day 1: steely, dry, not happy to be woken up?; Day 3: much better, a bit of golden fruit, still dry but more sturdy than steely; good but I'm in no rush for more

Lapierre, Marcel 2011 Morgon - purple grape, some mineral (metallic?) flattening of the bouquet but as it warms there are delicate roses and roasted red peppers (sweetly, not pyrazinic) and cooked meat; medium-weight, at the very most; acidity is enough to be clear but not at all sharp

Pepiere, Dom. de la 2017 Muscadet "Clos des Briords", Cuvee VV - Day 1: minerally and brisk, fairly dry but a bit tight; Day 2: there it is!: yellow fruit, sweet-tart just so, enough substance to mingle with the roast chicken but no danger of dominating it, less chalky and more crystalline

Serafino, Enrico 1989 Barolo "Terre Alte" - no note?

Kelley Fox Wines 2017 Pinot Noir "Mirabai" - Day 1: fruity, exuberant, fragrant, lightweight, lifted, there is some slightly funky essence of it that makes a match with the truffle carpaccio applied to the potatoes; Day 3: the lifted/spirity thing is gone, and the fruit has settled down, too; pure pinot fruit with a whiff of camphor and orange peel

Diffonty F (Cuvee du Vatican) 2000 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Reserve Sixtine" - Day 1 and Day 3 very similar: youthful color, fresh, slightly sweet grapey flavors, a nice combination of rustic and suave

Montesecondo 2014 Chianti Classico - corked

COS 2018 IGP Frappato - similar, but not so exuberant, as the bottle in May

Texier 2009 Cotes-du-Rhone "Brezeme" VV (Dom Pergaud) - first glass: very raspberry, Pezzy nose, luxurious texture of satin and liqueur, tannins are very fine; second glass: more fig and plum, still fruity and rich and intense but now also meaty-gamey, wow; Day 2: florals have fled, the wine is now dark and plummy, even a little spirity, still delicious but willing to play second fiddle to a roast cornish game hen

Baudry B 2014 Chinon Rouge "Les Grezeaux" - vivid nose of sweater-drawer sachet and black cherries; in the mouth is strong acidity, a touch of horse (more noticeable as the wine warms up), and a long finish again of black cherries but with an added lift of mint-eucalyptus-mothballs; the wine has great grace' Day 6 (recorked and in the fridge): still fresh, still mostly cherries but also a gentle sourness (think: sumac) complicates the mid-palate, it's more a juiciness all around my mouth than anything sharp/focused; the wine is slowly simplifying (no more horse, no more mint) as oxygen eats away at it, a great match against salty foods now

Eminence Road 2017 Cabernet Franc "Elizabeth's Vineyard" - as reported in another thread: 10.7%, cool blue fruit with a hint of electric shoe-polish, glou-glou

Ausonia 2019 Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo - vivid deep pink but lots of light reflects through, palate full of lifted cherry fruit, I like Cerasuolo generally but this one is a bit sweet for me, bought for glou and it sure is

Cantina del Lupo 2018 Grignolino "Grignole" - another glou bottle, pale red (rather than vivid pink), got that bright-and-light profile that I am favoring these days, yum; Day 3: adds a leather or resin note, some of the bright might be heading for VA but it's empty so no fear
 
had 11 lapierre twice recently; you are very kind

(note to self: drink more kelley fox wines for reasons that have nothing to do with wine, and yet at the end of the day have everything to do with wine; drink less of some other spectacular oregon pinot & gamay for exactly the same reasons)
 
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