Impressions July 2020

[VLM]

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

2014 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud -
2011 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud -

Your Texier notes are great, by the way.

I know I'm not exactly unbiased (although honestly, I'd rather give Eric a harder time) but I think the wines are just excellent. I really sense that they're realizing his ideal for them.

I love them but, for a while, I messed up when to drink them. I am happier now that I drink them either right away or wait 10+ years. Drinking them at age 3 or 4 was not working.

I think that's changing now, especially the St.A-St.J. I've had a lot of success with the 2011 vintage showing really well. In fact, both the 2012 and 2014 Pergaud have shown very well young.

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

2016 Domaine Lionnet Cornas Pur Granit - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (7/3/2020)
Very young, savory, intense and a bit blocky in a Cornas way. A really deep core of dark stone fruit smashed over rocks (the Granit title is perhaps influencing me) with hints of leather and black olive. Lots of tannin, but their shape is good, not harsh or spiky. The fruit, rocks and savory notes spiral together down the long finish. This is a long way from hitting its peak, the rule of 15 would be a good one here, but in the right food context and if you're curious, it can be interesting now. (92 points)

So does the texture come off rather smooth/shiny or spicy/rocky?

Good question. I'd actually split the difference and say smooth and rocky. Not shiny, not spicy.

Thanks. I like N Rhone syrah a lot and I recall the Lionnet name from way back; haven't had one anytime recently.

FWIW, I too remember the old Lionnet. Sam eestate. Those wines were much more rustic, but then again, everything was back then. Cornas was where you went for impenetrable, sauvage Syrah.

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

2018 Domaine Comte Abbatucci Faustine Rosé Vieilles Vignes - France, Corsica, Ajaccio (7/12/2020)
I really dig this rosé. All of the berries and flowers you'd want, but with a real driving minerality and a sea air quality. A perfect foil for a Salade Niçoise. (92 points)

The Abbatucci wines are generally great but the pricing is ouchy, around $40, which I think is a lot for rose.

Yeah, I got a really good wholesale price on this bottle and $40 would be tough, but I'd certainly pay $35 and be happy. I don't follow this year in-year out so I don't know if it is consistently this good but in my experience it's a very fine rosé. FWIW, we generally like Matthiasson, Clos Cibonne, Baudry and Pradeaux around here although we don't drink as much rosé as we used to.

I like Cotat, Sperino, Baudry, Cantalupo, occasionally others. For daily drinkers I am trending towards lighter-weight reds.

Sperino is also very good. Le Pianelle is another Alto Piedmont one that does really well with some age. Cristiano poured some with age for us when we visited and it was really eye-opening. Cotat isn't available in my local market and for whatever reason I don't seek it out. I can always drink it when I come to NYC.

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

2016 Azienda Agricola Platinetti Guido Ghemme Vigna Ronco al Maso - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Ghemme (7/22/2020)
This just came to my market. We had a really nice visit with Andrea Fontana there back in 2019. The 2016 is showing all the promise in bottle that it did out of cask. This wine threads the line between modern and traditional. Very clean and fruit driven, but aged in large botti. There is a sappiness and drive to the fruit that carries through the finish. I expect good things from this wine in the future but it is fun now for a young Nebbiolo experience that won't rip your face off. (92 points)

Thanks for the heads up!

I *really* like these wines. If you see the CDS Nebbiolo or the Barbera those are also great and great values. They are more focused and lower ABV than Langhe versions.

A quick hunt: this stuff is sold out everywhere in the US, any vintage.

I think that is due more to spotty importation/distribution than anything else. There isn't a national importer for these wines bu they are brought in locally to NC. Surprised no one has then for NY.

 

[Rahsaan]

originally posted by VLM:


I think that's changing now, especially the St.A-St.J. I've had a lot of success with the 2011 vintage showing really well.

Maybe the St-Julien is different. I finished my last few bottles of the 2011 Brézème VS this spring, because they were showing pretty elegant fresh and harmonious, although without enough depth to inspire me to age further. Perhaps it was a function of the year, not one for 'excitement' and more as a nice accompaniment to dinner.

 

[Rahsaan]

originally posted by VLM:

My read on these is that the En Remilly has the muskiest fruit, Chatenière has the funkiest fruit and Perrières is the most streamlined and mineral tending towards citrus.

Not sure about the musky vs. funky distinction, but I trust you that it is there! And of course these are just a few of his cuvees, so lots of potential exploration and comparisons in the future!

 

[VLM]

originally posted by Rahsaan:

originally posted by VLM:

My read on these is that the En Remilly has the muskiest fruit, Chatenière has the funkiest fruit and Perrières is the most streamlined and mineral tending towards citrus.

Not sure about the musky vs. funky distinction, but I trust you that it is there! And of course these are just a few of his cuvees, so lots of potential exploration and comparisons in the future!

Funky would be tropical-ish fruit, although none are *really* tropical. Hard to find words fro some things, which is why there are scores too.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by Rahsaan:

originally posted by VLM:


I think that's changing now, especially the St.A-St.J. I've had a lot of success with the 2011 vintage showing really well.

Maybe the St-Julien is different. I finished my last few bottles of the 2011 Brézème VS this spring, because they were showing pretty elegant fresh and harmonious, although without enough depth to inspire me to age further. Perhaps it was a function of the year, not one for 'excitement' and more as a nice accompaniment to dinner.

VS? If you mean Pergaud VV, I think it is just getting started. I think other recent vintages like 2010 and 2013 will be slower evolving wines, I think the 2011 will show well for years and maybe even improve. No need to worry, I've got plenty left and a couple of mags, so you'll be able to try it again if you want.

2011 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Brézème (3/3/2020)
This wine is still on fire. With the earthy meatiness of a grilled Flannery hanger this was a perfect match. Again, the texture of this wine is a real calling card. (93 points)

2011 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Brézème (9/15/2019)
Wow, this is great! It manages to have fruit sweetness without weight or jamminess. How did they do that? Steph requested an "Eric wine" to go with lamb and okra stew and it couldn't have worked out better. I was expecting this to be aromatrically vibrant, but the complexity on the palate from the dark fruit to the olive like brininess and the mineral tang of structure. The tannin are so filigreed and fine, you almost don't notice them, until you do. After a couple of hours, the structure starts to show in the last tastes which says that there is still upside to be had. Really impressive. (93 points)

 

[Rahsaan]

Yes that’s the wine. I had seen your notes and remarked to myself that you were much more enthusiastic than me. Could be personal taste preferences, or perhaps the food. I definitely didn’t drink them w steak or lamb, if that is what brought out the textural complexity for you. Although I didn’t have clashing matches either and found them enjoyable w dinner but not something that inspired me to drink before or after dinner.

 

[mark e]

originally posted by Rahsaan:
Could be personal taste preferences, or perhaps the food. I definitely didn’t drink them w steak or lamb, if that is what brought out the textural complexity for you.

Having been on both sides of the vegetarian/meat-eating divide, I'm pretty sure it is the food. (Sorry.) The fat/umami/salt/protein thang just cannot be duplicated with vegetables. Even now that I can only eat fowl thanks to that pesky tick bite that caused a mammal meat allergy, even a BBQ chicken ain't the same. Dat's life.

 

[Ian Fitzsimmons]

I always enjoy your notes, Nathan - speaking for myself - but there are 50 wines in this email, and a like quantity in each edition of the 'Impressions' newsletter, and I simply get overwhelmed. I have to reserve that kind of reading attention for technical articles on my dissertation topic. I'm intrigued by how you manage to drink at this pace - commercial tastings? Big dinners, with multiple people/bottles. In any event, your impressions are always ... impressive.

Like Jonathan, I think, I skim through your notes whenever you post them, but only focus on the few I have or am interested in, for one reason or another. The scope of your explorations so greatly exceeds what I have to work with, in terms of time and material, that I only settle on a few each time; for those few, your observations are always informative, and I try to put up some kind of a comment.

After reading this one, Coudert CT '09 and Texier Serine '10 are definitely on my 'retrieval' list for the next trip to the crawl space, and it's probably time to crack one of the 02 Latours I bought at my son's birth. I'll report back, as Joe would have admonished.

 

[Rahsaan]

originally posted by mark e:

originally posted by Rahsaan:
Could be personal taste preferences, or perhaps the food. I definitely didn’t drink them w steak or lamb, if that is what brought out the textural complexity for you.

Having been on both sides of the vegetarian/meat-eating divide, I'm pretty sure it is the food. (Sorry.) The fat/umami/salt/protein thang just cannot be duplicated with vegetables. Even now that I can only eat fowl thanks to that pesky tick bite that caused a mammal meat allergy, even a BBQ chicken ain't the same. Dat's life.

Yeah, I've conceded appreciation of most left-bank Bordeaux for that reason. But Northern Rhone syrah seemed doable. I suppose it's case by case. S Yaniger certainly seemed to have the vegetarian N Rhone syrah life figured out, and his cooking worked for me. But again, case by case.

For the 2011 Texier Brézème VS, I can (potentially) see how the lively acidic structure would only meld with those fatty proteins.

 

[mark e]

originally posted by Rahsaan:

originally posted by mark e:

originally posted by Rahsaan:
Could be personal taste preferences, or perhaps the food. I definitely didn’t drink them w steak or lamb, if that is what brought out the textural complexity for you.

Having been on both sides of the vegetarian/meat-eating divide, I'm pretty sure it is the food. (Sorry.) The fat/umami/salt/protein thang just cannot be duplicated with vegetables. Even now that I can only eat fowl thanks to that pesky tick bite that caused a mammal meat allergy, even a BBQ chicken ain't the same. Dat's life.

Yeah, I've conceded appreciation of most left-bank Bordeaux for that reason. But Northern Rhone syrah seemed doable. I suppose it's case by case. S Yaniger certainly seemed to have the vegetarian N Rhone syrah life figured out, and his cooking worked for me. But again, case by case.

For the 2011 Texier Brézème VS, I can (potentially) see how the lively acidic structure would only meld with those fatty proteins.

The reg Texier Brézème (not Pergaud) works fine with veg dishes at around 6-7 years of age (as a general rule), I have found, as long as there is a protein/salt element (e.g., Parmigiano-Reggiano) in the dish, but when it's not there we've found that Beaujolais, Listán Negro or Mencía (and, of course, German Spätburgunder) often work better. And those three work fine with a myriad of fish dishes, as well.

 

[maureen]

Nathan, I always enjoy reading your notes even when you post on nothing I own because your notes are so evocative and informative. Even at my old age, I learn from your posts. In fact, after I read the original post I sent it to my niece, who has become quite the wine geek down in NOLA. (Funny story - she has gotten to know Stephen Bitterolf (remotely) and she was emailing or texting him and made a reference to her “Mosel and burgundy crazed aunt” and he replied, yeah, I know Maureen. Small world, this wine geek world.)

 

[Jay Miller]

I love the 2009 Sapience though it certainly does require attention and time. Absolutely the reverse of an in your face Champagne. And of course the price is a bit offputting.

 

[Matt Latuchie]

late to the party, but really enjoyed your notes Nathan.

 

[Nathan Odem]

originally posted by Matt Latuchie:
late to the party, but really enjoyed your notes Nathan.

Latuchie!

I'll pile on - I love the notes and I'm able to read and process information in long-form (or at least I'm not bothered by it).

Don't repeat this, but for me, Brun might be the last real value in Beaujolais. So good and so cheap (even in vintages that I don't typically enjoy, like '18).

Also, appreciate the note on '09 Coudert. I'm too long on and underwhelmed by '09 Beaujolais (aren't we all - is it the most commented on vintage / region topic in Disorder history?). I'll try to offer my current thoughts on it soon.

Thanks to all the posters here.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by Jay Miller:
I love the 2009 Sapience though it certainly does require attention and time. Absolutely the reverse of an in your face Champagne. And of course the price is a bit offputting.

Yeah, the price is a bummer but it's not every day that I get to open a Champagne that makes Sophie sit up and take notice so worth the splurge. However, it is less than Cristal, and far more interesting.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by Nathan Odem:

originally posted by Matt Latuchie:
late to the party, but really enjoyed your notes Nathan.

Latuchie!

I'll pile on - I love the notes and I'm able to read and process information in long-form (or at least I'm not bothered by it).

Don't repeat this, but for me, Brun might be the last real value in Beaujolais. So good and so cheap (even in vintages that I don't typically enjoy, like '18).

Jean-Paul is a goddamn hero.

originally posted by Nathan Odem:
Also, appreciate the note on '09 Coudert. I'm too long on and underwhelmed by '09 Beaujolais (aren't we all - is it the most commented on vintage / region topic in Disorder history?). I'll try to offer my current thoughts on it soon.

Thanks to all the posters here.

I've never had an issue with 2009 Coudert. There were some wines that I really didn't like, like Lapierre.

FWIW, I think that a lot of vigneron are getting used to the new normal in terms of ripeness and are much better equipped to deal with this type of vintage these days.

Hope you're doing well.

 

[Jay Miller]

originally posted by VLM:

originally posted by Jay Miller:
I love the 2009 Sapience though it certainly does require attention and time. Absolutely the reverse of an in your face Champagne. And of course the price is a bit offputting.

Yeah, the price is a bummer but it's not every day that I get to open a Champagne that makes Sophie sit up and take notice so worth the splurge. However, it is less than Cristal, and far more interesting.

08 Cristal and 09 Sapience were my two favorite wines from the second to last La Fete du Champagne. At the time I declined to buy either due to the price but eventually gave in. Got them for about the same price as it happens.

I'm having trouble justifying any more Champagne purchases now since I won't be opening much if any until there's a vaccine.

 

[Oswaldo Costa]

2014 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Brézème (7/2/2020)
IIRC, Eric once said to me that 2014 was the closest iteration to his ideal for this wine. I certainly have a sense of what he means. Really controlled berry and stone pitted fruit and a real sense of almost umami in the savory, meaty herbal notes. It's the lightness with a sense of depth with a fine core of limestone minerals coupled with bright, but not sharp acids, and really fine latticed tannin. A structural masterpiece. I can't wait to see what the future holds, but this is a wine that can be consumed with joy right now. Kudos. (93 points)

Had this last night. Pleasant aromas (clear tapenade, whiff of tar, rust, and blackberries) and lovely mouthfeel. Ideal balance and no oak, of course (though I did get some very light vanilla). Most notably, it was silky smooth, but without the sycophantic emollience that one can get from oak polymerization. I didn't detect any tannin rasp, so my suspicion is that the smoothness comes from polymerized grape tannins (perhaps what you meant by "fine latticed tannin"). Regardless, it's an impressive feat to achieve so much smoothness without new oak. Not super moreish, perhaps because each drop went such a long way, but we thought it remarkably fine. 93.5 points.

 

[Jayson Cohen]

originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:

2014 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Brézème (7/2/2020)
IIRC, Eric once said to me that 2014 was the closest iteration to his ideal for this wine. I certainly have a sense of what he means. Really controlled berry and stone pitted fruit and a real sense of almost umami in the savory, meaty herbal notes. It's the lightness with a sense of depth with a fine core of limestone minerals coupled with bright, but not sharp acids, and really fine latticed tannin. A structural masterpiece. I can't wait to see what the future holds, but this is a wine that can be consumed with joy right now. Kudos. (93 points)

Had this last night. Pleasant aromas (clear tapenade, whiff of tar, rust, and blackberries) and lovely mouthfeel. Ideal balance and no oak, of course (though I did get some very light vanilla). Most notably, it was silky smooth, but without the sycophantic emollience that one can get from oak polymerization. I didn't detect any tannin rasp, so my suspicion is that the smoothness comes from polymerized grape tannins (perhaps what you meant by "fine latticed tannin"). Regardless, it's an impressive feat to achieve so much smoothness without new oak. Not super moreish, perhaps because each drop went such a long way, but we thought it remarkably fine. 93.5 points.

I really wish I had bought this wine in some quantity like I did 2013. I thought Day 2 was even better for it on release So good.

 

[VLM]

originally posted by Jayson Cohen:

originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:

2014 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Brézème (7/2/2020)
IIRC, Eric once said to me that 2014 was the closest iteration to his ideal for this wine. I certainly have a sense of what he means. Really controlled berry and stone pitted fruit and a real sense of almost umami in the savory, meaty herbal notes. It's the lightness with a sense of depth with a fine core of limestone minerals coupled with bright, but not sharp acids, and really fine latticed tannin. A structural masterpiece. I can't wait to see what the future holds, but this is a wine that can be consumed with joy right now. Kudos. (93 points)

Had this last night. Pleasant aromas (clear tapenade, whiff of tar, rust, and blackberries) and lovely mouthfeel. Ideal balance and no oak, of course (though I did get some very light vanilla). Most notably, it was silky smooth, but without the sycophantic emollience that one can get from oak polymerization. I didn't detect any tannin rasp, so my suspicion is that the smoothness comes from polymerized grape tannins (perhaps what you meant by "fine latticed tannin"). Regardless, it's an impressive feat to achieve so much smoothness without new oak. Not super moreish, perhaps because each drop went such a long way, but we thought it remarkably fine. 93.5 points.

I really wish I had bought this wine in some quantity like I did 2013. I thought Day 2 was even better for it on release So good.

I love 2013. I think it'll end up being amazing. A denser version.