Burlotto Pelaverga

Brian C

Brian Campbell
I had a decent run over maybe a decade (?) where I had a love affair with this wine. Cool toned, with such a unique and distinct black pepper, graphite, and brambly quality to it, it was very much in the transition-back-to-red dominant, end of summer drinking for me. I've posted and heard from others here that perhaps it was a victim of climate change as the past several vintages have seemed rather ripe, anonymous, and in the "generic red wine" category for what was once a wine of real character.
I skipped a couple vintages of the red after several disappointing bottles, but a bottle of the 2019 'Elatis' rosé this week brought back all the joy and character of the grape in a rosé format. I haven't heard much about 2019 other than the various trade groups in the Piedmonte declaring it "classic", but if the red version of Burlotto's pelaverga continues to disappoint, I am happy to report that the rosé continues to deliver the pelaverga magic. I've had this before but don't recall it delivering so clearly that character in the past. Maybe I just wasn't paying attention. 45% pelaverga, 45% nebbiolo, the balance in barbera.
 
originally posted by Brian C:
Burlotto Pelaverga I've posted and heard from others here that perhaps it was a victim of climate change as the past several vintages have seemed rather ripe, anonymous, and in the "generic red wine" category for what was once a wine of real character.

I completely agree. The delightful aromatics of Pelaverga seem to be most interesting in cooler vintages. But those are mostly a thing of the past. The 2018 was >14.5% ABV, so I skipped it. But if I see one in future around 13%, I might try it again. They could also harvest a bit earlier, but they don't.
 
I have loved many Burlotto Pelavergas, but for me too it has been some time since the wines excited me. Now I stick to Castello di Verduno...
 
Fwiw, a bottle of the 2020 this week seemed like a bit of a return to form for the Pelaverga. 13.5% (still a touch high for my liking) but lucid with crunchy red fruits and all the lovely spicy peppery aromatics. Bright and pretty.
 
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