For the past 14 years, we’ve been in the habit of opening a 2004 wine on my son’s birthday as that’s his birth year (duh!). This year’s was the 2004 Chateau de Beaucastel, which for my palate was totally rocking and a perfect match for the pan-roasted venison tenderloin and Spätzle that my son had requested for his quarantine birthday dinner. Two things really struck me about this wine: the first was just how clean the fruit was with absolutely no Brett influence that I could discern; the second thing was how the fruit was in a different register than any other S Rhône wine I’ve had. Between the smooth tannins, firm acidic structure and blackberry/black currant fruit profile, it had more in common with wines of the French SW such as Irouleguy that I’ve had. I know full well of the greater Mourvèdre component of the blend at Beaucastel but no previous vintage I’ve had differed so markedly from the S Rhône profile.
Mark Lipton
Mark Lipton