Impressions August 2020, Part II

VLM

VLM
A lot of usual suspects with a few curveballs thrown in.

2016 Weingut O. Trarbacher Ungsberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (8/13/2020)
Juicy and fresh tree fruits like pear buttressed by rocks and stones. A bit of citrus zest. Lively and tangy with a subtle ginger-type root (but not exactly ginger) quality. I've really enjoyed all of these wines from this Weingut. (91 points)

2009 Ch“teau des Tours Côtes du Rhône - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (8/14/2020)
This bottle was a leaker so we decided to open it up the week we got it. Heady aromas of macerated plums and cherries laced with spices like cloves, etc. A little rough around the edges but does give you a sense of the Rayas house style. Steph found it a bit alcoholic for her tastes but I didn't mind that as much. It's too bad these are so expensive and hard to com e by. This was a recent release, FWIW. (91 points)

2015 Henri Prudhon & Fils Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sur Le Sentier Du Clou - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru (8/15/2020)
Consistent with previous bottles. Showing that musky, flinty yellow fruit. Maybe a bit of honeysuckle this time. Good density. (92 points)

2018 Domaine Larue Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sous Roche Dumay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru (8/15/2020)
A new wine to me but I wanted something to compare all the Prudhon with so that I don't get too walled off in my St. Aubin appreciation. This seemed bigger with a slight hint of pineapple (more the sour-ish part) but not actually tropical. I have no idea if this is how these wines normally show. Perfectly fine, but I don't think it's in the same class is the Prudhon but something I'd try again if it was in front of me at a good price. (90 points)

2016 Azienda Agricola Caparsa Chianti Classico Caparsino Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (8/16/2020)
OK, now this is more like it. A bottle opened a few days before was corked. There is something slightly different in the texture of the latest releases, a little less of the rusticity and coarse texture but without losing its sense of place and soul. Speaking with the importer, the only change has been that the son has returned to the estate to help out and that makes a lot of sense. An extra pair of hands at a small, artisanal estate can make a ton of difference. Deep red and black fruits with savory herbs, leather and a mineral earth. Looking forward to following this wine for years to come. (92 points)

2018 Domaine des Ardoisières Vin des Allobroges Argile Blanc - France, Savoie, Vin des Allobroges (8/16/2020)
A step up from the Silice in terms of density and palate presence but it shares the Alpine meadow floral quality. Light a bright Spring late morning hike kicking up dew. Long rock and mineral finish that scrapes the lingering fruit form the palate. According to the interwebs, this is a blend of Chardonnay, Jacquère and Mondeuse blanche (!!). I think that this may become part of the regular rotation. (91 points)

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #23 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (8/17/2020)
This bottle was consistent with previous bottles but with maybe even a shade more density on the mineral finish. The mouthwatering quality of the acidity makes any sweetness invisible. I wonder if I'll be able to let any of these age. I thought I remembered that the Webers expect you to drink these in the first 10 years which makes sense to me given how awesome they are already. (93 points)

2012 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (8/18/2020)
Really fine, pretty rose scented cherry fruit, as you'd expect. What was interesting is that it was light and pretty but with a tensile strength. Other herbs and earthier notes emerge but the structure never really releases before we finish the bottle. What makes it so interesting is that I don't think the structure makes it less enjoyable now, in fact, it's aprt of the appeal and because of the shape of the wine, I would worry that as soon as that structure starts to fall, the wine may start to come unglued. It's a bit odd that these wines have become so popular as they're such characterful, and not archetypal, expressions of Barolo. (92 points)

2013 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (8/19/2020)
Such a kinky, funky version of Chardonnay. You have to like the effect of some botrytis which I do (and SFJoe notoriously hated). I can't think of a wine that works better with soft ripened cheeses. (91 points)

2018 Tiberio Pecorino - Italy, Abruzzi, Colline Pescaresi IGT (8/20/2020)
Consistent with previous bottles. It was experience with this wine has really caused me to seek out and try as many Pecorino as possible. I've found that this one sits right in the middle of the fruit, mineral, earthy/herbal triangle. (91 points)
 
Hmmn, I bought 2009 des Tours CdR some years ago for ca $30 a bottle. It is indeed ridiculously expensive now. Obviously, I haven't been back to the domaine for a while, but I'd bet they've released something like the 15 or 16 there and maybe even the 10 Vacqueyras. Sorry yours was a leaker, but that may have served to aerate it, as the domaine recommends.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
Hmmn, I bought 2009 des Tours CdR some years ago for ca $30 a bottle. It is indeed ridiculously expensive now. Obviously, I haven't been back to the domaine for a while, but I'd bet they've released something like the 15 or 16 there and maybe even the 10 Vacqueyras. Sorry yours was a leaker, but that may have served to aerate it, as the domaine recommends.

This was part of a parcel of wines, including the 2015 of the same, recently released to my market by Martine's wines. I'm assuming they're coming from the domain but I don't know for sure. The expense is bonkers but there is the ineffable Rayas-ness. I don't think I'm a buyer at current retail as you can still find the wines on plenty of lists in France for a reasonable price. I'd just drink them there.
 
Indeed, the last time I bought them at the domaine--last summer, I believe--they were about 15 Euros a bottle and on local restaurant lists for under 30E. The Vacqueyras, by the way, was 30E--expensive for a Vac, even there, but not expensive for the quality. I believe they are up to $100, which is just absurd.I'm guessing this is Martine, but I don't know what causes these mark-ups. It's a shame because the des Tours are very good wines.
 
Another case of the market here playing out. In Europe one still can buy the latest releases of the CdR for 25 Euros, and the Vacqueyras for 40 (if one buys from a primary source). I started only in recent years buying them, but once in a while my retailer gets some late releases (last was 2001) and it is amazing how young these wines still are after almost 20 years.
 
originally posted by VLM:
...It was experience with this wine has really caused me to seek out and try as many Pecorino as possible.

And how many is that? Surely can't be more than a dozen in the US.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
originally posted by VLM:
...It was experience with this wine has really caused me to seek out and try as many Pecorino as possible.

And how many is that? Surely can't be more than a dozen in the US.

I've had 6 that I've bought and have tracked inventory and probably a few more that I've had at restaurants. Have no idea the total but I bet it's at least 20. Lots of interest in it in Southern Italy from what I gather.
 
I've been pleased with Ardoisières when I can find it. Probably not in the bargain category for me though. Schiste is lights out good.
 
I might as well post this here.

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (AP No. 23 / Fuder Pio, Herbert (both plots in Langenberg)).

This is one of the Feinherb bottlings not available in NY but sold in NC that Nathan has been raving about for the last year, including above. I jumped at my chance to buy a couple bottles from Nathan’s buddy when visiting Durham last week.

I opened one a couple nights ago, and the evolution has been so interesting. Delicious wine. The weight is more like a classic Kabinett but for the (barely perceptible) 9% ABV (a little high by classic Kab standards). The color is the typical insane clear white that is a Falkenstein mark. The nose and palate evolved over a few hours from sponti, petrichor, and white grapefruit to cracked walnut and orange blossom with hints of tangy citrus pith back to petrichor with quinine, a whiff of licorice, and alternating between white grapefruit and juicy but light orange citrus cream. The sense of citrus pith on the palate never goes away as this wine is a mineral tight wire but it develops a clear Granny Smith apple note in the finish. It was too easy to down half a bottle in one sitting and the comments above include the evolution from Day 2 as well.

I was originally thinking I’d open the second bottle soon too but now plan to send it to the cellar. Nathan, you should think about it too as you seem to be plowing through your stash.

Next (Falkenstein) up is a 2019.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
I might as well post this here.

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (AP No. 23 / Fuder Pio, Herbert (both plots in Langenberg)).

This is one of the Feinherb bottlings not available in NY but sold in NC that Nathan has been raving about for the last year, including above.

Has Nathan been raving. My last bottle was not thrilling, but I wonder if it was just getting too shy and suffered from being consumed in recent memory of a 2018 NH Spätlese feinherb. The ripe electricity of 2018 combined with the clarity and freshness of Falkenstein has been very seductive for me.

I only have one bottle of this 2017 #23 left, but will probably consume it soon and hope for an experience to rave about.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
I might as well post this here.

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (AP No. 23 / Fuder Pio, Herbert (both plots in Langenberg)).

This is one of the Feinherb bottlings not available in NY but sold in NC that Nathan has been raving about for the last year, including above.

Has Nathan been raving. My last bottle was not thrilling, but I wonder if it was just getting too shy and suffered from being consumed in recent memory of a 2018 NH Spätlese feinherb. The ripe electricity of 2018 combined with the clarity and freshness of Falkenstein has been very seductive for me.

I only have one bottle of this 2017 #23 left, but will probably consume it soon and hope for an experience to rave about.

It's been consistently excellent for me. To wit (with a preview of October Impressions):

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #23 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/12/2020)

This was a fascinating counterpoint to the last glass of the 2018 AP #23. Where the former was juicy and fruity, this was lean, muscular and mineral. Almost seemed dry. Really salty and driving with mouthwatering citrus zest. This bottle is sharply cut and all about definition. The last glass a couple of days later was a bit more open and generous but not better. Will Falkenstein ruin my palate for different expressions of Riesling? (92 points)

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #23 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (8/17/2020)

This bottle was consistent with previous bottles but with maybe even a shade more density on the mineral finish. The mouthwatering quality of the acidity makes any sweetness invisible. I wonder if I'll be able to let any of these age. I thought I remembered that the Webers expect you to drink these in the first 10 years which makes sense to me given how awesome they are already. (93 points)

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #23 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (7/13/2020)

Another beautiful, linear, mouthwatering and pure example of this consistently great wine. I feel spoiled to get to drink this on such a regular basis. (92 points)

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #23 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (6/8/2020)

Yep. Thank you, Jesus. (92 points)

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #23 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (4/6/2020)

Impeccable. (92 points)

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #23 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11/27/2019)

So pure and linear and delicious. I go through these way too fast. There is a polished rusticity to these wines, if that makes any sense. It doesn't really. It's like cut crystal from Ireland rather than Baccarat by way of (a totally annoying and poncy) analogy. (93 points)

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #23 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (9/7/2019)

I don't know why, but it surprised me that this was dryer than the Kabinett consumed beside it. A bit more body and a bit more fruit (well, mostly reminding me of grape skins). Crystalline. (92 points)

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #23 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (8/22/2019)

Others are much better than I am at isolating all the different things going on in these young Falkenstein wines. Bracing and full of white fruits and citrus clutched together with stone. Just great. (93 points)
 
originally posted by Nathan Odem:
I've been pleased with Ardoisières when I can find it. Probably not in the bargain category for me though. Schiste is lights out good.

Yeah, they're not exactly bargains, but fairly priced in the market, I think. So that's enough to get into the rotation if not daily like Tiberio. The Silice is getting closer to bargain territory.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
I might as well post this here.

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (AP No. 23 / Fuder Pio, Herbert (both plots in Langenberg)).

This is one of the Feinherb bottlings not available in NY but sold in NC that Nathan has been raving about for the last year, including above. I jumped at my chance to buy a couple bottles from Nathan’s buddy when visiting Durham last week.

I opened one a couple nights ago, and the evolution has been so interesting. Delicious wine. The weight is more like a classic Kabinett but for the (barely perceptible) 9% ABV (a little high by classic Kab standards). The color is the typical insane clear white that is a Falkenstein mark. The nose and palate evolved over a few hours from sponti, petrichor, and white grapefruit to cracked walnut and orange blossom with hints of tangy citrus pith back to petrichor with quinine, a whiff of licorice, and alternating between white grapefruit and juicy but light orange citrus cream. The sense of citrus pith on the palate never goes away as this wine is a mineral tight wire but it develops a clear Granny Smith apple note in the finish. It was too easy to down half a bottle in one sitting and the comments above include the evolution from Day 2 as well.

I was originally thinking I’d open the second bottle soon too but now plan to send it to the cellar. Nathan, you should think about it too as you seem to be plowing through your stash.

Next (Falkenstein) up is a 2019.

Great note and glad I could hook you up with Cam.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
I might as well post this here.

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (AP No. 23 / Fuder Pio, Herbert (both plots in Langenberg)).

This is one of the Feinherb bottlings not available in NY but sold in NC that Nathan has been raving about for the last year, including above.

Has Nathan been raving. My last bottle was not thrilling, but I wonder if it was just getting too shy and suffered from being consumed in recent memory of a 2018 NH Spätlese feinherb. The ripe electricity of 2018 combined with the clarity and freshness of Falkenstein has been very seductive for me.

I only have one bottle of this 2017 #23 left, but will probably consume it soon and hope for an experience to rave about.

There's a Riesling rule of seven that Hofgut Falkenstein appears to have been violating regularly, but if this particular one hasn't been working for you, perhaps you want to let it sit a few more years rather than consume soon.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
I might as well post this here.

2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb (AP No. 23 / Fuder Pio, Herbert (both plots in Langenberg)).

This is one of the Feinherb bottlings not available in NY but sold in NC that Nathan has been raving about for the last year, including above.

Has Nathan been raving. My last bottle was not thrilling, but I wonder if it was just getting too shy and suffered from being consumed in recent memory of a 2018 NH Spätlese feinherb. The ripe electricity of 2018 combined with the clarity and freshness of Falkenstein has been very seductive for me.

I only have one bottle of this 2017 #23 left, but will probably consume it soon and hope for an experience to rave about.

There's a Riesling rule of seven that Hofgut Falkenstein appears to have been violating regularly, but if this particular one hasn't been working for you, perhaps you want to let it sit a few more years rather than consume soon.

I finished the last glass last night and based on past experience with Falkenstein Feinherb after a couple days open (they have tended to stay open or open further) think this one is starting to shut down. Wait if possible.
 
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