Thoughts on Aging Chabils

originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by robert ames:
originally posted by BJ:
I pretty much stopped aging Chablis with premox. Which is sad, 'cause old Chablis is fucking awesome when it's on.

I am pretty sad most producers still oak their premier/GCs somewhat in light of this. That oak can integrate with age...but if you drink at release it's there big time. I wish they'd all just use old oak for everything.

hmmm. . .with louis michel, billaud simon, bernard defaix, fevre domaine, i have never had a prem ox bottle. and that's up to 10 years old.

All of those have had reports of premox but none are domaines I ever cellared. I stopped a long time ago, so I was bitten by Dauvissat and Boudin and really just priced out of Ravenneau (Dauvissat now as well). Picq always worked out for me but maybe I also didn't expect them to age as long so just drank them.

Back in the mid-90s (when you could do such things) I used to hit Chablis every summer and taste with pretty much everyone and then raid the cellars at the Hostellerie des Clos to drink older vintages of Dauvissat and Raveneau. They were some of the best experiences I've ever had with white wine (NB, I was a graduate student at the time and 10-12 year old Raveneau Clos could be had for under $100 US, often well under).

Lucky you did that then. 'Cause now, well, who can afford them. What is odd here in Norway is that though Dauvissat is pretty much unavailable in the retail (Vinmonopolet) market, restaurants have them. The 1er crus I like best, Fôret and Vaillons, are about $110/120 so once in a while . . . But for everyday drinking, we buy a lot of Duplessis (which never gets any love here): petit chablis mostly, but also the 1er crus which cost considerably less than the US.

Yeah, glad I got to do all that. I really haven't been back to Burgundy in a long time. Eric and I went up to visit Mugneret-Gibourg and show off some tijanes at Roulot a few years back, but that's about it. It's all pretty gross now.

Duplessis is really good. I also like Moreau-Naudet in a different style. Picq really scratches my old Dauvissat itch with steely but concentrated wines. Honestly, I don't really miss Dauvissat and Raveneau that much.
 
originally posted by BJ:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by robert ames:
originally posted by BJ:
I pretty much stopped aging Chablis with premox. Which is sad, 'cause old Chablis is fucking awesome when it's on.

I am pretty sad most producers still oak their premier/GCs somewhat in light of this. That oak can integrate with age...but if you drink at release it's there big time. I wish they'd all just use old oak for everything.

hmmm. . .with louis michel, billaud simon, bernard defaix, fevre domaine, i have never had a prem ox bottle. and that's up to 10 years old.

All of those have had reports of premox but none are domaines I ever cellared. I stopped a long time ago, so I was bitten by Dauvissat and Boudin and really just priced out of Ravenneau (Dauvissat now as well). Picq always worked out for me but maybe I also didn't expect them to age as long so just drank them.

Back in the mid-90s (when you could do such things) I used to hit Chablis every summer and taste with pretty much everyone and then raid the cellars at the Hostellerie des Clos to drink older vintages of Dauvissat and Raveneau. They were some of the best experiences I've ever had with white wine (NB, I was a graduate student at the time and 10-12 year old Raveneau Clos could be had for under $100 US, often well under).

God, that sounds good.

I've been there, once. I should be able to rattle off what Chablis we had from memory, but can't. I do remember we had a 94 de Montille I think Volnay 1er, and it was super on.

I used to go as a single diner and they treated me great as was the custom back then. The best evening I had there was 1990 Ravenneau Butteax and 1990 Lafarge Clos du Ch. Ducs which were both amazing.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by robert ames:
originally posted by BJ:
I pretty much stopped aging Chablis with premox. Which is sad, 'cause old Chablis is fucking awesome when it's on.

I am pretty sad most producers still oak their premier/GCs somewhat in light of this. That oak can integrate with age...but if you drink at release it's there big time. I wish they'd all just use old oak for everything.

hmmm. . .with louis michel, billaud simon, bernard defaix, fevre domaine, i have never had a prem ox bottle. and that's up to 10 years old.

All of those have had reports of premox but none are domaines I ever cellared. I stopped a long time ago, so I was bitten by Dauvissat and Boudin and really just priced out of Ravenneau (Dauvissat now as well). Picq always worked out for me but maybe I also didn't expect them to age as long so just drank them.

Back in the mid-90s (when you could do such things) I used to hit Chablis every summer and taste with pretty much everyone and then raid the cellars at the Hostellerie des Clos to drink older vintages of Dauvissat and Raveneau. They were some of the best experiences I've ever had with white wine (NB, I was a graduate student at the time and 10-12 year old Raveneau Clos could be had for under $100 US, often well under).

Lucky you did that then. 'Cause now, well, who can afford them. What is odd here in Norway is that though Dauvissat is pretty much unavailable in the retail (Vinmonopolet) market, restaurants have them. The 1er crus I like best, Fôret and Vaillons, are about $110/120 so once in a while . . . But for everyday drinking, we buy a lot of Duplessis (which never gets any love here): petit chablis mostly, but also the 1er crus which cost considerably less than the US.

Yeah, glad I got to do all that. I really haven't been back to Burgundy in a long time. Eric and I went up to visit Mugneret-Gibourg and show off some tijanes at Roulot a few years back, but that's about it. It's all pretty gross now.

Duplessis is really good. I also like Moreau-Naudet in a different style. Picq really scratches my old Dauvissat itch with steely but concentrated wines. Honestly, I don't really miss Dauvissat and Raveneau that much.

Appreciate those ideas. Have you tried the Fevre-Fevre wines? I've only had their village, but it definitely has some magic.
 
I like Fevre’s Bouguerots (as well as the Preuses, MdT, and Vaulorent.) I stopped buying any GC after 2014 though as the prices have gone up significantly.

VLM, when you finally do make it to NY, remind me I have ‘04 Picq Vosgros. (Cross fingers.)
 
originally posted by robert ames:
originally posted by BJ:
I pretty much stopped aging Chablis with premox. Which is sad, 'cause old Chablis is fucking awesome when it's on.

I am pretty sad most producers still oak their premier/GCs somewhat in light of this. That oak can integrate with age...but if you drink at release it's there big time. I wish they'd all just use old oak for everything.

hmmm. . .with louis michel, billaud simon, bernard defaix, fevre domaine, i have never had a prem ox bottle. and that's up to 10 years old.

Moi non plus ... except maybe with Fevre. I haven't bought their wines in so long I don't recall.

Mostly, for the wines I really like, I'm willing to pay the small premium in price on my good bottles, implied by the low frequency of premox in my purchases over the years. I look at it as a small surcharge on well-established THC premium.

Michel 1ers have been a bargain up until, say, last year, at about $35 for Montee. Raveneau and Dauvissat are too expensive to take any pleasure in, for my means. VLM's experiences sound wonderful, especially at that time of life.

I've opened two bottles of 2010 Picq Vosgros this year which I thought were good but not really good. There's a slight earthiness on the finish which is out of place. But I have two magnums and will try holding them for another decade or so now, to see what happens.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
We have a passive-aggressive cellar at my place, FWIW. It pouts when I fail to put new bottles into it, but then, when I do, it hides them from me in obscure crannies for sheer spite.

This week I fed it six bottles of Thivin Zacharie; I’ll probably never see them again.

Apologies to all for my many typos in the original post. Fat fingers on a phone keyboard, in a dark room, with the brightness turned down. D'oh!
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
We have a passive-aggressive cellar at my place, FWIW. It pouts when I fail to put new bottles into it, but then, when I do, it hides them from me in obscure crannies for sheer spite.

This week I fed it six bottles of Thivin Zacharie; I’ll probably never see them again.

Apologies to all for my many typos in the original post. Fat fingers on a phone keyboard, in a dark room, with the brightness turned down. D'oh!

You can edit your own posts any time. I almost always do it as I am fighting not only my fat fingers but also iPhone autocorrect and self-critical nits on grammar.
 
That's a horse of a different color.

I've never run across wines from those nice, personable-looking Fevres. I take it you like them?

It's a bit hilarious that, apart from the Route du Chablis, the only other named tourist/commercial entity in the map on their website is the Auxerre McDonalds.
 
originally posted by robert ames:
not sure about the sour mash thing, but i figure that premier cru chablis doesn't perform its magic until a good 7 years after the vintage, and a few more years for grand cru.

and especially with louis michel, as his wines are all satinless-only in their elevage, so are even tighter upon release than those that use old wood.

that being said, 2018 was a particularly blousy vintage for chablis (read neal martin), so i'd expect it to be a vintage with diminished staying power compared to say 2017.

'Creamy' may be the better descriptor, compared to 'mash;' I hadn't thought of it. I think I copied 'sour mash' from Johnson.

I would say the creamier texture amplifies the sensation of sourness already present in typical Chablis acidity.

I've read the 'blowsy' assessment of 2018 for Chablis in general, but professional notes on Michel's wines are favorable, notably by Gilman and Vinous. I wouldn't be surprised if Michel's style of elevage yields wines that 'weather' a warm vintage better than many others in this region. Granted, that's purely speculation.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
originally posted by robert ames:
not sure about the sour mash thing, but i figure that premier cru chablis doesn't perform its magic until a good 7 years after the vintage, and a few more years for grand cru.

and especially with louis michel, as his wines are all satinless-only in their elevage, so are even tighter upon release than those that use old wood.

that being said, 2018 was a particularly blousy vintage for chablis (read neal martin), so i'd expect it to be a vintage with diminished staying power compared to say 2017.

'Creamy' may be the better descriptor, compared to 'mash;' I hadn't thought of it. I think I copied 'sour mash' from Johnson.

I would say the creamier texture amplifies the sensation of sourness already present in typical Chablis acidity.

I've read the 'blowsy' assessment of 2018 for Chablis in general, but professional notes on Michel's wines are favorable, notably by Gilman and Vinous. I wouldn't be surprised if Michel's style of elevage yields wines that 'weather' a warm vintage better than many others in this region. Granted, that's purely speculation.

schildknecht was not averse to using the descriptor 'chicken stock' when describing a chablis in its mature phase.
 
I find chicken stock in Chablis quite a bit, esp w age. I love it when it has that slightly animale thing going.
 
Much love for Duplessis here. I've never encountered a premox'd bottle although a bottle of '09 Vaillons I opened recently was ever so slightly corked. Unfortunately, the wines are now out of my price range. Last vintage I went long on was 2014. I'm drinking '11s and leaving '10s alone.

I don't dislike Fevre, but have never found the wines compelling. It seems they've solved their premox problem since switching to Diam.

I'm a fan of La Chablisienne and Billaud-Simon. I've occasionally found older ones at reasonable prices. A bottle of '12 B-S Mont de Milieu opened a couple of weeks ago was excellent. I haven't come across any premox with these producers. I purchased a number of different La Chablisienne bottlings from 2014.
 
Thanks. I haven’t encountered a lot of praise for Chablisienne, and my own, limited exploration some years ago was inconclusive, but definitely not compelling. Might be time for another look.
 
originally posted by BJ:
I find chicken stock in Chablis quite a bit, esp w age. I love it when it has that slightly animale thing going.

Homemade chicken stock, or store-bought?

Actually, either way, it seems like a thoroughly unappetizing descriptor for good Chablis. Ick.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
originally posted by BJ:
I find chicken stock in Chablis quite a bit, esp w age. I love it when it has that slightly animale thing going.

Homemade chicken stock, or store-bought?

Actually, either way, it seems like a thoroughly unappetizing descriptor for good Chablis. Ick.
Not sure about that. Chicken stock will be meaty, salty, fatty. Those first two are not bad for a minerally wine with some age on it.
 
A recent (3 days ago) bottle of Defaix Cote de Lechet 2005 confirmed my thrust in aging Chablis for a minimum of 15 years. Creamy and complex, yet with that distinct Chablis minerality and freshness.

And my oxydation rate with mature Chablis has been less than 10%, probably significantly less, though Dauvissat, Duplessis and Fevre have all had vintages with some problems.
 
originally posted by Larry Stein:
Much love for Duplessis here. I've never encountered a premox'd bottle although a bottle of '09 Vaillons I opened recently was ever so slightly corked. Unfortunately, the wines are now out of my price range.
Alas. The 1er crus are about $25 less per bottle in Norway (even with all the import and value-added taxes), so I'm guessing the US importer is taking a larger than normal markup. And I've never encountered any premox. I like Picq (and bought it from Cave Taureau), but it isn't sold here.
 
There were some strange things going on with the Duplessis Clos 2000. A recent Tonnerre 1998 were superb and fresh as a daisy though.
 
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