I was privileged to have several vintages of Mugneret Chaignots including the 2013-14-15 with Noel and Marie. Even though we were outside, the wines showed really well. What makes Mugneret so special is that the wines are almost never so shut down that they're not enjoyable. I think that the Chaignots is the relative value in the range. The market price doesn't reflect the normal retail price for 2013-14-15 but between wholesale increases and tariffs prices are becoming brutal. It's a shame that a wine like this is getting out of reach for us normal folks. Also checked in on young wines with mixed results and tried a few things completely new to me.
2008 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (9/22/2020)
A terrific bottle. The fruit is on the red end of the spectrum with plenty of sandalwood and spice with the first whiffs of some forest floor. A touch of earth and some slightly darker fruit come into play but this isn't a weighty version of this and it retains a bit of acid/mineral crunch. It seems to have come into a good harmony between its elements. The last thing for it to develop is bottle sweetness and some more tertiary notes and/or resolve the rest of the structure if either of those are your thing. I'm not sure I need other Burgundies in my cellar. (93 points)
2018 Brendan Stater-West Saumur Les Chapaudaises - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (9/22/2020)
These are new wines to me so we popped it while cooking and I tried it over several days. The first day it was pretty tight and lean with that aloe thing I've come to identify with a sort of acidic, vegetal fruit note. Steph wasn't crazy about it. It improved over the coming couple of days and showed a bit more fruit as it uncoiled a bit. Seems a bit more concentrated than Guiberteau in style, for a comparison. I might grab a couple more bottles to track. For the record, I'm kinda jealous of the proprietor if I didn't know better starting a domain in Saumur seems awesome. (90 points)
NV Savart Champagne Premier Cru l'Ouverture - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (9/23/2020)
Kind of a flat performance for this given how well it has worked for us for the last couple of years. Admittedly, I wasn't paying a ton of attention to it. A bit disjoint compared to other bottles but still full of pear, minerals and spice. (89 points)
2018 De Fermo Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Concrete - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (9/23/2020)
Bright and delicious, full of leafy, red cherry fruit and only a bit of rustic tannin. Perfect with pizza from Mercato for Louisa's 4th birthday celebrated outside with her aunts. Has that slightly sweaty reduction thing that Montepulciano can get that only adds to the wine overall. Was gone really quickly. (90 points)
2016 Podere il Palazzino Chianti Classico Argenina - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (9/23/2020)
This was a bit of a bummer given the excellent experience I've had with 2016s in general. I found the combination of apparent oak and burlyness distracting and it took away from its table manners. It wasn't terrible, but fans of the style may like this more. (86 points)
2016 De Fermo Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Prologo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (9/24/2020)
Given how well the Concrete showed the day before, I got excited about trying this again and informed by my prior experience, I opened this before I even started cooking dinner to let it get some air. This shows a dark fruit smashed on concrete kind of aroma with more red fruit on the palate. Dense, gamy and leathery but doesn't get too heavy. The tannins are not insignificant and a bit chewy but are part of the overall balance and experience and not diverting. What I appreciate most about this wine is that it seems to be the sort of wine where when you want it, you want that particular thing (well made, characterful Montepulciano d'Abruzzo) not a category of thing. (92 points)
2017 Hobo Wine Company Aglianico Branham Vineyard Rockpile - USA, California, Sonoma County, Rockpile (9/24/2020)
Man, this was interesting. Under 12.5% alcohol and dark as night. Pasty, brambly, dark fruits with some hints of tree bark, earth and leather. There is acidity to cut through the food on the palate and then chewy tannin to wash it down. It was a bit too tannic to enjoy without food but delightful with it. Reminds me more of Mondeuse or Lagrein or Irouleguy than an Aglianico from southern Italy because it doesn't have that roasted character. I have no idea what age would do to this and this is certainly a "fit for purpose" type wine but I love the idea of throwing it in the cellar to have for the right kind of food. (90 points)
2011 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (9/25/2020)
OK, I hear you young Croix Boissée and I'll try to leave you alone for a bit. Not overpoweringly backwards or anything but the tannic structure makes itself very apparent. All the classic Croix Boissée tart and pristine fruit trapped inside a limestone crust. Flowers, herbs, anise and some dark berry weave subtly through the main theme. I'll check back in in 2-3 years. (91 points)
2018 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (9/25/2020)
Really light and airy with some creamed stone. Such an interesting difference from the Falkenstein that we usually drink. I guess I'd like it to be a little more intense and focused but the lightness of being here is intriguing. It's been a minute since I've had this wine but it feels like an old friend. Maybe I'll grab a couple to cellar, but it is about 2x the Falkenstein price. (91 points)
2016 Ceritas Chardonnay Porter-Bass Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (9/26/2020)
Curiosity got the better of me. This is always such a subtle, steely and lifted wine. Plenty of acids frame the tart fruits with a firm mineral spine. The wine doesn't budge much during the time its open except for picking up some more floral notes. I wish I could fast forward the development of this wine but I guess I'll have to be patient instead. I have high hopes for what it'll be at plateau. (91 points)
2018 Azienda Agricola Platinetti Guido Nebbiolo Colline Novaresi - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Colline Novaresi (9/26/2020)
This wine is such a joy. Floral, springtime Nebbiolo with bright cherry and a mid-weight frame with a nice tannic framing and ~13% alcohol. I can't think of a Langhe Nebbiolo that is competitive in price or maybe even quality. (90 points)
2014 Savart Champagne Premier Cru Le Mont Benoit - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (9/27/2020)
Medium bodied and silky. Ginger and other baking spices with yellow plums and green apples with some flowers on the nose. Nice precision and delicacy if not as intense as I expected given the last bottle. Seems to be stitching together nicely. (93 points)
2016 Domaine des Hauts Baigneux Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau (9/27/2020)
My first experience with this wine, a super interesting Chenin Blanc from Azay-le-Rideau. Golden color but not oxidized or oxidative. It does have that slight burnt sugar thing that you get with aged Chenin. The most fascinating thing is that if I had it blind, I would have guessed Romorantin. In a sec tendre style as it doesn't seem to be demi-sec. Good framing acidity. Assuredly a hipster wine but with no over-the-top issues. Happy to have a new producer and I'm interested to try their other wines. (91 points)
2013 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (9/27/2020)
Part of a 2013-14-15 horizontal. Three different vintages with a core personality of spice, juicy red fruit and woodsmoke running through them. The prettiest of the three wines and showing the lightest body with more mineral and bright red fruit. It isn't fully open and there is a nice tannic spine but still a joy to drink. If all of my 2013s are developing like this I'll be really happy. (93 points)
2014 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (9/27/2020)
Part of a 2013-14-15 horizontal. Interestingly, this is the most closed down of the three. The fruit is a bit darker and there is a bit more of an herbal and leathery edge to it. Has a really rigid core to it, not that it is tough but rather it is self-contained. I'll plan on checking back in 3-4 years to see where it is. Evolving more slowly than the 2013. Has a really driving whip of a finish that shows more concentration than I expected. (92 points)
2015 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (9/27/2020)
Part of a 2013-14-15 horizontal. This may be one of those vintages of Chaignots that never truly shuts down or takes a while to do it (the 1999 drank well for years). This has a depth and density of fruit that the other two vintages can't quite match and also a deeper iris-like floral note and that Vosne spice in spades. Has finishing fruit that really lingers on the palate with a bit of sucrosité. This wine is anything but cheap but it is the most overlooked and maybe the best value in the line. (94 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (9/27/2020)
Consistent with my last bottle and secures my thinking that this wine is improving and shedding its bay fat to show some of the more subtle, beautiful elements from this vineyard even in this warm vintage. (92 points)
2019 Julien Sunier Vin de France Wild Soul - France, Vin de France (9/28/2020)
Bright, tart and a bit spicy and herbal. I was a tad disappointed because I've been really impressed with Sunier wines in general Maybe it needs a bit of time but too bad. I prefer Brun L'Ancien in this price range and think it has more style. (87 points)
2010 Flavio Roddolo Barbera d'Alba Superiore Bricco Appiani - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba Superiore (9/29/2020)
I don't know that I am clear headed at all about these wines and that others can generalize from my experience. I just really love them and they seem so soulful and full of emotion. Savory, earthy, gamy, spicy fruit compote notes. Just melds with food in a way that improves both. At the top of my list for visits the next time I'm in the Langhe (whenever the hell that will be) but I am worried I might fanboy out or be disappointed by a "meeting my heroes" type situation. (93 points)
2010 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Brézème (9/30/2020)
A concerning note prompted me open this with grilled lamb. I opened it (but didn't decant, don't worry Eric) around 5 for a 8 PM dinner. It's progressing along the line it seemed to be with my last bottle in 2018. A tapenade of dark plums and currants with briny olives with lifted notes of smoke and violets. All the things are still there to support a long evolution in bottle. The limestone really shows in the type of acids and the fine grained nature and shape of the wine. I imagine that this will always be a wine of some tension and not anything burly, I think it will become more stretched and refined. Another few years to soften and open should yield good results. (92 points)
2008 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (9/22/2020)
A terrific bottle. The fruit is on the red end of the spectrum with plenty of sandalwood and spice with the first whiffs of some forest floor. A touch of earth and some slightly darker fruit come into play but this isn't a weighty version of this and it retains a bit of acid/mineral crunch. It seems to have come into a good harmony between its elements. The last thing for it to develop is bottle sweetness and some more tertiary notes and/or resolve the rest of the structure if either of those are your thing. I'm not sure I need other Burgundies in my cellar. (93 points)
2018 Brendan Stater-West Saumur Les Chapaudaises - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (9/22/2020)
These are new wines to me so we popped it while cooking and I tried it over several days. The first day it was pretty tight and lean with that aloe thing I've come to identify with a sort of acidic, vegetal fruit note. Steph wasn't crazy about it. It improved over the coming couple of days and showed a bit more fruit as it uncoiled a bit. Seems a bit more concentrated than Guiberteau in style, for a comparison. I might grab a couple more bottles to track. For the record, I'm kinda jealous of the proprietor if I didn't know better starting a domain in Saumur seems awesome. (90 points)
NV Savart Champagne Premier Cru l'Ouverture - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (9/23/2020)
Kind of a flat performance for this given how well it has worked for us for the last couple of years. Admittedly, I wasn't paying a ton of attention to it. A bit disjoint compared to other bottles but still full of pear, minerals and spice. (89 points)
2018 De Fermo Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Concrete - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (9/23/2020)
Bright and delicious, full of leafy, red cherry fruit and only a bit of rustic tannin. Perfect with pizza from Mercato for Louisa's 4th birthday celebrated outside with her aunts. Has that slightly sweaty reduction thing that Montepulciano can get that only adds to the wine overall. Was gone really quickly. (90 points)
2016 Podere il Palazzino Chianti Classico Argenina - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (9/23/2020)
This was a bit of a bummer given the excellent experience I've had with 2016s in general. I found the combination of apparent oak and burlyness distracting and it took away from its table manners. It wasn't terrible, but fans of the style may like this more. (86 points)
2016 De Fermo Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Prologo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (9/24/2020)
Given how well the Concrete showed the day before, I got excited about trying this again and informed by my prior experience, I opened this before I even started cooking dinner to let it get some air. This shows a dark fruit smashed on concrete kind of aroma with more red fruit on the palate. Dense, gamy and leathery but doesn't get too heavy. The tannins are not insignificant and a bit chewy but are part of the overall balance and experience and not diverting. What I appreciate most about this wine is that it seems to be the sort of wine where when you want it, you want that particular thing (well made, characterful Montepulciano d'Abruzzo) not a category of thing. (92 points)
2017 Hobo Wine Company Aglianico Branham Vineyard Rockpile - USA, California, Sonoma County, Rockpile (9/24/2020)
Man, this was interesting. Under 12.5% alcohol and dark as night. Pasty, brambly, dark fruits with some hints of tree bark, earth and leather. There is acidity to cut through the food on the palate and then chewy tannin to wash it down. It was a bit too tannic to enjoy without food but delightful with it. Reminds me more of Mondeuse or Lagrein or Irouleguy than an Aglianico from southern Italy because it doesn't have that roasted character. I have no idea what age would do to this and this is certainly a "fit for purpose" type wine but I love the idea of throwing it in the cellar to have for the right kind of food. (90 points)
2011 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (9/25/2020)
OK, I hear you young Croix Boissée and I'll try to leave you alone for a bit. Not overpoweringly backwards or anything but the tannic structure makes itself very apparent. All the classic Croix Boissée tart and pristine fruit trapped inside a limestone crust. Flowers, herbs, anise and some dark berry weave subtly through the main theme. I'll check back in in 2-3 years. (91 points)
2018 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (9/25/2020)
Really light and airy with some creamed stone. Such an interesting difference from the Falkenstein that we usually drink. I guess I'd like it to be a little more intense and focused but the lightness of being here is intriguing. It's been a minute since I've had this wine but it feels like an old friend. Maybe I'll grab a couple to cellar, but it is about 2x the Falkenstein price. (91 points)
2016 Ceritas Chardonnay Porter-Bass Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (9/26/2020)
Curiosity got the better of me. This is always such a subtle, steely and lifted wine. Plenty of acids frame the tart fruits with a firm mineral spine. The wine doesn't budge much during the time its open except for picking up some more floral notes. I wish I could fast forward the development of this wine but I guess I'll have to be patient instead. I have high hopes for what it'll be at plateau. (91 points)
2018 Azienda Agricola Platinetti Guido Nebbiolo Colline Novaresi - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Colline Novaresi (9/26/2020)
This wine is such a joy. Floral, springtime Nebbiolo with bright cherry and a mid-weight frame with a nice tannic framing and ~13% alcohol. I can't think of a Langhe Nebbiolo that is competitive in price or maybe even quality. (90 points)
2014 Savart Champagne Premier Cru Le Mont Benoit - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (9/27/2020)
Medium bodied and silky. Ginger and other baking spices with yellow plums and green apples with some flowers on the nose. Nice precision and delicacy if not as intense as I expected given the last bottle. Seems to be stitching together nicely. (93 points)
2016 Domaine des Hauts Baigneux Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau (9/27/2020)
My first experience with this wine, a super interesting Chenin Blanc from Azay-le-Rideau. Golden color but not oxidized or oxidative. It does have that slight burnt sugar thing that you get with aged Chenin. The most fascinating thing is that if I had it blind, I would have guessed Romorantin. In a sec tendre style as it doesn't seem to be demi-sec. Good framing acidity. Assuredly a hipster wine but with no over-the-top issues. Happy to have a new producer and I'm interested to try their other wines. (91 points)
2013 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (9/27/2020)
Part of a 2013-14-15 horizontal. Three different vintages with a core personality of spice, juicy red fruit and woodsmoke running through them. The prettiest of the three wines and showing the lightest body with more mineral and bright red fruit. It isn't fully open and there is a nice tannic spine but still a joy to drink. If all of my 2013s are developing like this I'll be really happy. (93 points)
2014 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (9/27/2020)
Part of a 2013-14-15 horizontal. Interestingly, this is the most closed down of the three. The fruit is a bit darker and there is a bit more of an herbal and leathery edge to it. Has a really rigid core to it, not that it is tough but rather it is self-contained. I'll plan on checking back in 3-4 years to see where it is. Evolving more slowly than the 2013. Has a really driving whip of a finish that shows more concentration than I expected. (92 points)
2015 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (9/27/2020)
Part of a 2013-14-15 horizontal. This may be one of those vintages of Chaignots that never truly shuts down or takes a while to do it (the 1999 drank well for years). This has a depth and density of fruit that the other two vintages can't quite match and also a deeper iris-like floral note and that Vosne spice in spades. Has finishing fruit that really lingers on the palate with a bit of sucrosité. This wine is anything but cheap but it is the most overlooked and maybe the best value in the line. (94 points)
2015 Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé Tradition - France, Burgundy, M“connais, Viré-Clessé (9/27/2020)
Consistent with my last bottle and secures my thinking that this wine is improving and shedding its bay fat to show some of the more subtle, beautiful elements from this vineyard even in this warm vintage. (92 points)
2019 Julien Sunier Vin de France Wild Soul - France, Vin de France (9/28/2020)
Bright, tart and a bit spicy and herbal. I was a tad disappointed because I've been really impressed with Sunier wines in general Maybe it needs a bit of time but too bad. I prefer Brun L'Ancien in this price range and think it has more style. (87 points)
2010 Flavio Roddolo Barbera d'Alba Superiore Bricco Appiani - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba Superiore (9/29/2020)
I don't know that I am clear headed at all about these wines and that others can generalize from my experience. I just really love them and they seem so soulful and full of emotion. Savory, earthy, gamy, spicy fruit compote notes. Just melds with food in a way that improves both. At the top of my list for visits the next time I'm in the Langhe (whenever the hell that will be) but I am worried I might fanboy out or be disappointed by a "meeting my heroes" type situation. (93 points)
2010 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Brézème (9/30/2020)
A concerning note prompted me open this with grilled lamb. I opened it (but didn't decant, don't worry Eric) around 5 for a 8 PM dinner. It's progressing along the line it seemed to be with my last bottle in 2018. A tapenade of dark plums and currants with briny olives with lifted notes of smoke and violets. All the things are still there to support a long evolution in bottle. The limestone really shows in the type of acids and the fine grained nature and shape of the wine. I imagine that this will always be a wine of some tension and not anything burly, I think it will become more stretched and refined. Another few years to soften and open should yield good results. (92 points)
