Lots of great experiences in this installment. The highlight was a small, outdoor version of the pig picking that we do every autumn on the third Saturday in October with three of my oldest friends and their families. It was Boston butt and not whole hog but the fixings were great and everyone brought great wine. What a treat during these times to be able to see old friends and just feel the warmth of companionship, even outdoors and apart (which isn't that much of a difference from the pig picking which takes place outdoors though we share tables). It was one of those magical days where every wine showed it's best. I feel very lucky.
2016 André Perret St. Joseph Les Grisières - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (10/15/2020)
Dark and somewhat brooding. Dense and savory notes box in some deep blue/purple fruit. The texture marks this as a modernish wine, but doesn't seem spoofy. Has that lactic/paste quality that young Syrah can have. This has good acid shape and isn't ponderous but is chewy. Works well enough with Flannery hanger steak off the grill but this is a wine that needs to sleep and come together for about 4-6 years I would guess but I have only had this wine sporadically over the years. (91 points)
2013 Roagna Barolo Pira - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/16/2020)
Wow, this was a thrilling wine. At first, it seemed like it would be closed, at least on the nose as it was somewhat muted and leaned towards meaty/savory/earthy. The palate was medium bodied with a touch of fruit and a fine but astringent tannin. It has an incredible pale red color. I can't think of another Barolo off the top of my head with this color. About and hour and a half later (glad I opened it while cooking) it had unfurled its aromatic flag. Sweet cherry and tart berry fruits laced with a myriad of baking spices and a floral top note. Those savory notes were now lingering underneath. As beautiful a nose as I've had recently. The palate also warmed and there was almost a fruit/umami thing going on. The tannin, while still present, had rounded while still providing structure. I kept thinking to myself that this was one of the most Rayas-like wines I've had in a long time. Really excellent and it'll be hard to not drink more bottles even though I think a bit of time will bring even more complexity and harmony. If you have more than a couple bottles it really is worth drinking now. It's the kind of wine I can't get out of my mind. (94 points)
1996 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Ca'mia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/17/2020)
After a disappointing 1999 and a 1996 Rocche that was a shadow of what I hoped, I was worried about this wine. The nose showed pure cherry with notes of underbrush and leather with the typical dried rose petal. There is a ferrous mineral quality to the fine tannin on the finish that marks this site for me. Ready to go but will surely last if you want it to go all tertiary. This was double-decanted about 3 hours prior to consumption. (93 points)
2010 Eric Texier Côte-Rôtie Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (10/17/2020)
On the early side for this but starting to come together. The palate is silken and precise. The nose teases and plays a bit of hide and seek. A floral nuance here, a bit of smoke and leather there with a line of pure, tart red fruits. I think that this just needs a couple more years for the nose and flavors to open up to match the texture. This will be a great version of this wine. (93 points)
2011 Georges Descombes Morgon Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (10/17/2020)
I've been saving this last bottle of 2011 VV to have alongside the Vermont. This is fully resolved and lush on the palate. Lots of dark berry and plum fruit with some spice box and an earthy green snap. The tannins are fully resolved and there is a bit of underbrush but it is mostly velvety fruit at this point. Delicious. Drink them if you've got them. (92 points)
2011 Georges Descombes Morgon Vermont Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (10/17/2020)
This shares some common traits with the VV but it is the deepest, darkest night. The fruit gets darker, towards the black currant, blackberry end of the spectrum and there is a distinct turned dark earth and leather note but it is the endless fruit on the finish that really captivates. I love the feel on the palate. It picks up a slight hint of violets on the nose. Really profound Morgon that I'd prefer to drink now as opposed to when it goes pinote. (94 points)
2009 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (10/17/2020)
Similar to my last bottle and probably suffered by comparison to the Collin and Ledru with which it was juxtaposed. It seemed more closed and leaning on its mineral, lemon oil structure and not showing as much of the generous side of this cuvée. It was sort of the middle child between the beautiful severity of the Ledru and the flamboyant brilliance of the Collin. (92 points)
2015 Weingut O. Trarbacher Ungsberg Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/17/2020)
Consistent with my previous bottle although maybe more precise and mineral on the palate. This was fun to introduce to my group of friends I've been drinking wine with for almost 25 years. I think I wrote this before, but for me this triangulates Weider-Künstler and Falkenstein style wise. (92 points)
2015 Ulysse Collin Champagne Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons - France, Champagne (10/17/2020)
Deeply fruited with a sculpted, full mouthfeel. Apple and pear with baking spices on the nose. A kind of river stone like note with the acid structure on the finish. The depth and vinosity is what really sets this wine apart. We have a lot of excellent characterful wines open but this really stands apart and everyone is freaking out about it. As good a Champagne as I've had this year and one of the most memorable wines. By chance, I saw the same people Tuesday that shared this bottle and they all mentioned the Collin as soon as I saw them. I do wonder whether some wines just do better outside (these days, it's always outside and distant when drinking with anyone else but I'm not complaining as seeing other people at all is a treat) and stand out. (95 points)
2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #15 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/17/2020)
From magnum. A showier, fruitier bottle of this but not at all unbalanced and maybe influenced by the other bottles present. Still has that weightless quality. Lovely. (92 points)
2017 Ferme de la Sansonnière (Mark Angeli) La Lune - France, Vin de France (10/17/2020)
Slightly leaner than the last bottle but still a decently chunky wine with a bit of RS. Honeyed, yellow fruits basted on stones. Effortless to drink with the Ossabaw barbecue Boston Butt, NC style of course. (91 points)
2012 Azienda Agricola Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva Doccio a Matteo - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (10/18/2020)
An exact match to my last bottle except that this is maybe a bit more regally feral and chewy. I'm standing by my Pradeaux of Radda analogy. (92 points)
2016 Morella Primitivo Old Vines Salento IGT - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT (10/18/2020)
I was really interested in trying this and maybe my expectations were a bit high. It was nice, but I found it a bit more diffuse than I expected in the way that Chateauneuf or DO Madrid can seem to me sometimes. It was still a nice wine and not flabby maybe I just caught it as a weird time or I was off. (89 points)
2015 Az. Ag. Antoniotti Odilio Nebbiolo Coste della Sesia - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Coste della Sesia (10/20/2020)
This seems to be maturing. The nose is of macerated cherry with a bit of the alcohol sticking out. Some woodsy and herbal notes as well. I think it's time to drink up. (88 points)
2013 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/21/2020)
After a great experience with the 2013 Roagna Pira recently, I decided to take this for a test drive and it was excellent! The word that comes to mind is elegance, the real iron fist in a velvet glove. The color is a pale red with a nose of cherry, flowers and savory herbs and leather. Really lovely texture but with a growing tannic presence as we go through the bottle. As it opens there's a note of menthol that complicates the nose and the palate has a sort of iron edge to the fine tannin that seem to be limestone dependent (I don't know the actual bedrock of the Gabutti vineyard). I bought a healthy chunk of this and the Roagna and I plan on checking in on them through their development on a regular basis. I might check in on other 2013 Langhe wines given this success. Young Nebbiolo is awesome. (93 points)
2016 André Perret St. Joseph Les Grisières - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (10/15/2020)
Dark and somewhat brooding. Dense and savory notes box in some deep blue/purple fruit. The texture marks this as a modernish wine, but doesn't seem spoofy. Has that lactic/paste quality that young Syrah can have. This has good acid shape and isn't ponderous but is chewy. Works well enough with Flannery hanger steak off the grill but this is a wine that needs to sleep and come together for about 4-6 years I would guess but I have only had this wine sporadically over the years. (91 points)
2013 Roagna Barolo Pira - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/16/2020)
Wow, this was a thrilling wine. At first, it seemed like it would be closed, at least on the nose as it was somewhat muted and leaned towards meaty/savory/earthy. The palate was medium bodied with a touch of fruit and a fine but astringent tannin. It has an incredible pale red color. I can't think of another Barolo off the top of my head with this color. About and hour and a half later (glad I opened it while cooking) it had unfurled its aromatic flag. Sweet cherry and tart berry fruits laced with a myriad of baking spices and a floral top note. Those savory notes were now lingering underneath. As beautiful a nose as I've had recently. The palate also warmed and there was almost a fruit/umami thing going on. The tannin, while still present, had rounded while still providing structure. I kept thinking to myself that this was one of the most Rayas-like wines I've had in a long time. Really excellent and it'll be hard to not drink more bottles even though I think a bit of time will bring even more complexity and harmony. If you have more than a couple bottles it really is worth drinking now. It's the kind of wine I can't get out of my mind. (94 points)
1996 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Ca'mia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/17/2020)
After a disappointing 1999 and a 1996 Rocche that was a shadow of what I hoped, I was worried about this wine. The nose showed pure cherry with notes of underbrush and leather with the typical dried rose petal. There is a ferrous mineral quality to the fine tannin on the finish that marks this site for me. Ready to go but will surely last if you want it to go all tertiary. This was double-decanted about 3 hours prior to consumption. (93 points)
2010 Eric Texier Côte-Rôtie Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (10/17/2020)
On the early side for this but starting to come together. The palate is silken and precise. The nose teases and plays a bit of hide and seek. A floral nuance here, a bit of smoke and leather there with a line of pure, tart red fruits. I think that this just needs a couple more years for the nose and flavors to open up to match the texture. This will be a great version of this wine. (93 points)
2011 Georges Descombes Morgon Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (10/17/2020)
I've been saving this last bottle of 2011 VV to have alongside the Vermont. This is fully resolved and lush on the palate. Lots of dark berry and plum fruit with some spice box and an earthy green snap. The tannins are fully resolved and there is a bit of underbrush but it is mostly velvety fruit at this point. Delicious. Drink them if you've got them. (92 points)
2011 Georges Descombes Morgon Vermont Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (10/17/2020)
This shares some common traits with the VV but it is the deepest, darkest night. The fruit gets darker, towards the black currant, blackberry end of the spectrum and there is a distinct turned dark earth and leather note but it is the endless fruit on the finish that really captivates. I love the feel on the palate. It picks up a slight hint of violets on the nose. Really profound Morgon that I'd prefer to drink now as opposed to when it goes pinote. (94 points)
2009 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (10/17/2020)
Similar to my last bottle and probably suffered by comparison to the Collin and Ledru with which it was juxtaposed. It seemed more closed and leaning on its mineral, lemon oil structure and not showing as much of the generous side of this cuvée. It was sort of the middle child between the beautiful severity of the Ledru and the flamboyant brilliance of the Collin. (92 points)
2015 Weingut O. Trarbacher Ungsberg Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/17/2020)
Consistent with my previous bottle although maybe more precise and mineral on the palate. This was fun to introduce to my group of friends I've been drinking wine with for almost 25 years. I think I wrote this before, but for me this triangulates Weider-Künstler and Falkenstein style wise. (92 points)
2015 Ulysse Collin Champagne Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons - France, Champagne (10/17/2020)
Deeply fruited with a sculpted, full mouthfeel. Apple and pear with baking spices on the nose. A kind of river stone like note with the acid structure on the finish. The depth and vinosity is what really sets this wine apart. We have a lot of excellent characterful wines open but this really stands apart and everyone is freaking out about it. As good a Champagne as I've had this year and one of the most memorable wines. By chance, I saw the same people Tuesday that shared this bottle and they all mentioned the Collin as soon as I saw them. I do wonder whether some wines just do better outside (these days, it's always outside and distant when drinking with anyone else but I'm not complaining as seeing other people at all is a treat) and stand out. (95 points)
2017 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb #15 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/17/2020)
From magnum. A showier, fruitier bottle of this but not at all unbalanced and maybe influenced by the other bottles present. Still has that weightless quality. Lovely. (92 points)
2017 Ferme de la Sansonnière (Mark Angeli) La Lune - France, Vin de France (10/17/2020)
Slightly leaner than the last bottle but still a decently chunky wine with a bit of RS. Honeyed, yellow fruits basted on stones. Effortless to drink with the Ossabaw barbecue Boston Butt, NC style of course. (91 points)
2012 Azienda Agricola Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva Doccio a Matteo - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (10/18/2020)
An exact match to my last bottle except that this is maybe a bit more regally feral and chewy. I'm standing by my Pradeaux of Radda analogy. (92 points)
2016 Morella Primitivo Old Vines Salento IGT - Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT (10/18/2020)
I was really interested in trying this and maybe my expectations were a bit high. It was nice, but I found it a bit more diffuse than I expected in the way that Chateauneuf or DO Madrid can seem to me sometimes. It was still a nice wine and not flabby maybe I just caught it as a weird time or I was off. (89 points)
2015 Az. Ag. Antoniotti Odilio Nebbiolo Coste della Sesia - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Coste della Sesia (10/20/2020)
This seems to be maturing. The nose is of macerated cherry with a bit of the alcohol sticking out. Some woodsy and herbal notes as well. I think it's time to drink up. (88 points)
2013 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/21/2020)
After a great experience with the 2013 Roagna Pira recently, I decided to take this for a test drive and it was excellent! The word that comes to mind is elegance, the real iron fist in a velvet glove. The color is a pale red with a nose of cherry, flowers and savory herbs and leather. Really lovely texture but with a growing tannic presence as we go through the bottle. As it opens there's a note of menthol that complicates the nose and the palate has a sort of iron edge to the fine tannin that seem to be limestone dependent (I don't know the actual bedrock of the Gabutti vineyard). I bought a healthy chunk of this and the Roagna and I plan on checking in on them through their development on a regular basis. I might check in on other 2013 Langhe wines given this success. Young Nebbiolo is awesome. (93 points)