Impressions October 2020, Part IV

VLM

VLM
So I was finally able to try the Peyre Rose wines I had been so looking forward to and was very disappointed. The Marlène had some soaking fo the cork which may indicate some sort heat damage at some point but the Syrah Leone had a pristine cork. This is as bummed as I've been about a producer this year. I have 2 more bottles to try: 2005-05 Clos des Cistes. Let's hope they show better. Standouts were another great 2011 Cappellano, a Boillot showing up strong and continued excellence, this time in red, from Collier.

2016 Domaine du Collier Saumur La Ripaille - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (10/22/2020)
This was really impressive. Deeply pitched dark berry and pitted fruits shaped by an underlying steel structure of tannin and acid. The kind of fruit where the aftertaste leaves hints of skins and pits. I think this wine has a chance to be really fabulous and is just showing hints of its potential. (92 points)

NV Fabio Gea Onde Gravitazionali - Italy, Piedmont, Vino da Tavola (10/23/2020)
Consistent flavor profile wise with the last bottle but maybe just a bit more muted. I gave this 1.5-2 hours to breathe prior to dinner. Maybe it is best right after opening at this point. Still a ton of fun to drink and great at the table. (90 points)

2018 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (10/24/2020)
Good if straightforward and a bit one dimensional. Interestingly, it tightened up a bit over the next several days in the fridge. (89 points)

1998 Domaine Charvin Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape (10/25/2020)
There was nothing wrong with this and the storage has been impeccable since release (cork only stained at the top) but I think it may just be a bit long in the tooth for me. We were drinking outside (COVI rules) so maybe that played a part (it didn't effect other, younger wines as much). Not hot or alcoholic. Warm spices and some cherry compote with a smattering of Provencal herbs as you'd expect. Color is a watery ruby. Fully resolved, for sure. (89 points)

2013 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban (10/25/2020)
This was sort of just a WTF flyer. Really young, dense and chewy. Savory but with deep fruit. Not aggressively tannic as Eric seems to avoid that texture but firm in structure. Let it sit a few more years before trying another bottle. (91 points)

2005 Domaine de Peyre Rose Coteaux du Languedoc Marlène N°3 - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc (10/25/2020)
This was really disappointing. From a trusted source I can only assume this is representative or it something happened prior to them getting their hands on it. Oxidized and OTH.

2011 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (10/25/2020)
This wine has always shown well and tonight was no exception. We didn't give it much time open before we dove into it. Sweet cherry and baking spices with the classic Nebbiolo rose water only hitting on the finish. Gained complexity in the glass. I really loved the texture which was gentle and easy to drink but with some sneaky length and persistence and some fine tannins. Lovely to drink now and my last bottle won't make it more than a few more years. (93 points)

2016 Ch“teau Yvonne Saumur-Champigny Le Beaumeray - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (10/25/2020)
While this was undeniably impressive and well made in the vin de garde style I found it less compelling than recent Collier, which for my personal preferences may be setting the bar too high. Real density of fruit without excess weight but really captured by its structure. I'd be interested to taste this in 4-5 years and see what happens with it. All of the Yvonne wines have been promising and I will keep and eye on this estate. (91 points)

2017 Maisons Brulées L'Erebe - France, Vin de Table Français (10/25/2020)
Fun, bistro styled natural wine but a bit too high toned with VA for my taste. Some may appreciate the style more. (85 points)

2006 Domaine de Peyre Rose Coteaux du Languedoc Clos Syrah Leone - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc (10/26/2020)
This was disappointing. It was very roasted and seemingly tired. We tried it right away then gave it plenty of air. Put it in the fridge and then tried it again the next day. It's just roasted and tired or it was exposed to some sort of heat that didn't cause it to leak or even penetrate the cork which was only stained at the top. (83 points)

2019 Julien Sunier Régnié - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Régnié (10/27/2020)
Juicy, fun and full of life. Robust in the natural Beaujolais style. Well fruited but with floral and herbal meadow-like notes. Structured enough to work well at the table with a salad and charcuterie. Will probably improve with a couple years in the cellar, but good to drink now. (90 points)

2010 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (10/29/2020)
Well, there we go! This was a WTF moment. While I'm enthusiastic in general, Boillot wines can often be hard to get a read on and this was a young wine from a big vintage. The gamble paid off with a wine that while on the darker fruited side for Volnay wasn't rough or closed. It does give the sense that there is more to come once it finally relaxes and there is plenty of structure but there is also a good bit of stuffing draped over that structure and fine Burgundian notes of earthy, licorice and even a touch of dark cocoa powder. Excellent and bright finishing fruit. This is excellent now if you don't mind young, structured wine, but will certainly be even better in 3-5 years or longer, depending on your preferences. (92 points)
 
I haven't had a 98 Charvin in a very long time. But I have had a 90 CdP and a 00 CdR both this year. Both were fully mature but hardly over the hill. I'm surprised at your report. But, as I regularly say, tastes vary.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
I haven't had a 98 Charvin in a very long time. But I have had a 90 CdP and a 00 CdR both this year. Both were fully mature but hardly over the hill. I'm surprised at your report. But, as I regularly say, tastes vary.

Other folks may have enjoyed it more than I did. I think I would have preferred it 5 or more years prior when it was more energetic and lively. It was in perfect condition, it was just past its sweet spot.
 
that Cappellano is magnificent wine.

I'm a big fan of the entire output of the Boillot family. An '04 Clos de la Mouchère a few weeks ago was a brilliant expression of Puligny. I may like Louis' wines even more than VLM. While I always struggle with descriptors, the sense of 'dark cocoa powder' carries over to the tactility of '10 Louis les Brouillards as the tannins were quite fine, a sensation that I enjoy. Overall, the background sense of fine, dark, cocoa powder could stand as a marker for this cuvée Chez Louis.

Is it apostasy to like the Cherbaudes of Chez Lucien more than Louis'?

Note to self: explore Domaine du Collier.
 
Bravo to VLM for getting a Louis Boillot wine in a deliciously drinkable moment. The crazy thing is that if you opened another bottle of 2010 Brouillards tonight, it would probably show differently.

Tristan, any particular differences in the Cherbaudes of the two domaines? Not that it matters because I've never seen either for sale in the US and only got my meager bottles of Louis' Cherbaudes in France.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Bravo to VLM for getting a Louis Boillot wine in a deliciously drinkable moment. The crazy thing is that if you opened another bottle of 2010 Brouillards tonight, it would probably show differently.

Tristan, any particular differences in the Cherbaudes of the two domaines? Not that it matters because I've never seen either for sale in the US and only got my meager bottles of Louis' Cherbaudes in France.

Hello Rahsaan.

I think Lucien does a better job with the aromatics of Cherbaudes which is, to me, more important in this vineyard than in others in common to the brothers. Louis' version is a little tougher, a little more chewy.

I know what you mean about limited supply. Retailers that I can rely on to have the Volnays never get the Cherbaudes. For those, when I sense my supply drying up, I go to Morrell for Louis and Gordon's for Lucien. Both of them tend to run out quickly after release.
 
originally posted by Tristan Welles:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Bravo to VLM for getting a Louis Boillot wine in a deliciously drinkable moment. The crazy thing is that if you opened another bottle of 2010 Brouillards tonight, it would probably show differently.

Tristan, any particular differences in the Cherbaudes of the two domaines? Not that it matters because I've never seen either for sale in the US and only got my meager bottles of Louis' Cherbaudes in France.

Hello Rahsaan.

I think Lucien does a better job with the aromatics of Cherbaudes which is, to me, more important in this vineyard than in others in common to the brothers. Louis' version is a little tougher, a little more chewy.

I know what you mean about limited supply. Retailers that I can rely on to have the Volnays never get the Cherbaudes. For those, when I sense my supply drying up, I go to Morrell for Louis and Gordon's for Lucien. Both of them tend to run out quickly after release.

I've never been allocated the Cherbaudes, Nuits Pruliers or Volnay Cailleret. I consistently get Volnay Brouillards and Gevrey Evocelles. Sometimes, I get Gevrey Champonnets. I'm probably out of the Boillot business since we haven't been doing any business with the distributor and even before then that relationship was fraying. Rare Wine is the importer my distributor sources through. They also sell the wines at retail.

I've only had the Cherbaudes, Nuits Pruliers and Volnay Cailleret inconsistently and a couple of times each so don't really have a good read. All things being equal, it would seem that those vineyards naturally produce "riper" wines and that would marry well with the house style.
 
originally posted by Tristan Welles:
that Cappellano is magnificent wine.

I'm a big fan of the entire output of the Boillot family. An '04 Clos de la Mouchère a few weeks ago was a brilliant expression of Puligny. I may like Louis' wines even more than VLM. While I always struggle with descriptors, the sense of 'dark cocoa powder' carries over to the tactility of '10 Louis les Brouillards as the tannins were quite fine, a sensation that I enjoy. Overall, the background sense of fine, dark, cocoa powder could stand as a marker for this cuvée Chez Louis.

Is it apostasy to like the Cherbaudes of Chez Lucien more than Louis'?

There is a powdery aspect, I know what you're getting at. I'm not sure I'd call it cocoa, but I don't have a better idea. It's like a withdrawn density.

originally posted by Tristan Welles:
Note to self: explore Domaine du Collier.

Do it quick. I'm not sure how much longer these will be easy to source and that they'll remain under $100. Evidently, getting them in Europe is very difficult.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
A cautionary Peyre Rose tale. Ugh.

One of my biggest wine bummers of the year. They didn't resemble anything I remember and I'm pretty sure it was the wine and not me.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Bravo to VLM for getting a Louis Boillot wine in a deliciously drinkable moment. The crazy thing is that if you opened another bottle of 2010 Brouillards tonight, it would probably show differently.

I don't know. I've found the Gevrey Evocelles to develop on a pretty linear trajectory. The Brouillards is more temperamental, I guess, but this bottle seemed to be on course not randomly enjoyable, if that makes sense.
 
originally posted by VLM:

I'm probably out of the Boillot business since we haven't been doing any business with the distributor and even before then that relationship was fraying. Rare Wine is the importer my distributor sources through. They also sell the wines at retail..

I'm still a fan and Louis Boillot still makes up the overwhelming majority of my red Burgundy collection. But I have also slowed the purchases in recent years because the wines are not exactly forthcoming and it might help me to get some more proof that the investment is worth it. Especially given my modest storage capacity.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:

I'm probably out of the Boillot business since we haven't been doing any business with the distributor and even before then that relationship was fraying. Rare Wine is the importer my distributor sources through. They also sell the wines at retail..

I'm still a fan and Louis Boillot still makes up the overwhelming majority of my red Burgundy collection. But I have also slowed the purchases in recent years because the wines are not exactly forthcoming and it might help me to get some more proof that the investment is worth it. Especially given my modest storage capacity.

It's going to be really interesting when Clément Boillot-Barthod takes over for both his parents. We're probably not far off that now. From Fixin to Gevrey to Chambolle to Nuits to Pommard to Volnay and then down to Moulin à Vent and I may have left something out. I think I would keep buying if I got allocations but probably not as much. I think that the house style mixed with warmer vintages may make the wines easier early, but who knows. Maybe I'll pop a 2016 sometime soon just to see.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:

I'm probably out of the Boillot business since we haven't been doing any business with the distributor and even before then that relationship was fraying. Rare Wine is the importer my distributor sources through. They also sell the wines at retail..

I'm still a fan and Louis Boillot still makes up the overwhelming majority of my red Burgundy collection. But I have also slowed the purchases in recent years because the wines are not exactly forthcoming and it might help me to get some more proof that the investment is worth it. Especially given my modest storage capacity.

It's going to be really interesting when Clément Boillot-Barthod takes over for both his parents. We're probably not far off that now. From Fixin to Gevrey to Chambolle to Nuits to Pommard to Volnay and then down to Moulin à Vent and I may have left something out. I think I would keep buying if I got allocations but probably not as much. I think that the house style mixed with warmer vintages may make the wines easier early, but who knows. Maybe I'll pop a 2016 sometime soon just to see.

I’ve heard rumors this is happening now although the domaines have not been merged (yet?).
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:

I'm probably out of the Boillot business since we haven't been doing any business with the distributor and even before then that relationship was fraying. Rare Wine is the importer my distributor sources through. They also sell the wines at retail..

I'm still a fan and Louis Boillot still makes up the overwhelming majority of my red Burgundy collection. But I have also slowed the purchases in recent years because the wines are not exactly forthcoming and it might help me to get some more proof that the investment is worth it. Especially given my modest storage capacity.

It's going to be really interesting when Clément Boillot-Barthod takes over for both his parents. We're probably not far off that now. From Fixin to Gevrey to Chambolle to Nuits to Pommard to Volnay and then down to Moulin à Vent and I may have left something out. I think I would keep buying if I got allocations but probably not as much. I think that the house style mixed with warmer vintages may make the wines easier early, but who knows. Maybe I'll pop a 2016 sometime soon just to see.

I’ve heard rumors this is happening now although the domaines have not been merged (yet?).

Whispers, and I don't really know mind you or have sources I definitively trust, indicate that efforts have been underway to incorporate things such that the different vineyards can fall under one company. A lot of Burgundians have started doing things like this, it also allows them to expand in different ways, including into Beaujolais. I'd love to know this for sure, but I don't. Take this info FWIW, i.e. not much.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
A cautionary Peyre Rose tale. Ugh.

One of my biggest wine bummers of the year. They didn't resemble anything I remember and I'm pretty sure it was the wine and not me.

That really sucks! I just drank a 2004 Syrah Leone that I bought from Flatiron in 2016 and it was great. I have one bottle of the 05 Marlene that I hand-carried back from Paris, maybe I'll give it a try soon. I've never tried that particular cuvée.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:

I'm probably out of the Boillot business since we haven't been doing any business with the distributor and even before then that relationship was fraying. Rare Wine is the importer my distributor sources through. They also sell the wines at retail..

I'm still a fan and Louis Boillot still makes up the overwhelming majority of my red Burgundy collection. But I have also slowed the purchases in recent years because the wines are not exactly forthcoming and it might help me to get some more proof that the investment is worth it. Especially given my modest storage capacity.

It's going to be really interesting when Clément Boillot-Barthod takes over for both his parents.

Yes! I think the only vineyard holding in common is Beaux Bruns. So that wine may improve some. Perhaps the village wines will benefit. It should be good news that a stable vigneron is taking up good sites in Beaujolais, though to date the efforts from Boillot only hint at top flight cru Beaujolais.

The interesting decisions for M Clément might be what to do with the ancient vines in Pruliers, Cherbaudes, and Fuées and what to do (tertiary for him, more important for us) about distribution in the U.S. as I *believe* importation for Barthod is all with Rosenthal and for Louis Boillot is all Rare Wine Co.

A real shame that more Pruliers doesn't land stateside. There aren't many bottles I hold on to that don't have a single note in CellarTracker - this is often an example.
 
originally posted by Zachary Ross:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
A cautionary Peyre Rose tale. Ugh.

One of my biggest wine bummers of the year. They didn't resemble anything I remember and I'm pretty sure it was the wine and not me.

That really sucks! I just drank a 2004 Syrah Leone that I bought from Flatiron in 2016 and it was great. I have one bottle of the 05 Marlene that I hand-carried back from Paris, maybe I'll give it a try soon. I've never tried that particular cuvée.

I'd love to hear your experience with the Marlène. I've also never had it and was eagerly anticipating it. It would be good to know if these experiences were just aberrations.
 
originally posted by Tristan Welles:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:

I'm probably out of the Boillot business since we haven't been doing any business with the distributor and even before then that relationship was fraying. Rare Wine is the importer my distributor sources through. They also sell the wines at retail..

I'm still a fan and Louis Boillot still makes up the overwhelming majority of my red Burgundy collection. But I have also slowed the purchases in recent years because the wines are not exactly forthcoming and it might help me to get some more proof that the investment is worth it. Especially given my modest storage capacity.

It's going to be really interesting when Clément Boillot-Barthod takes over for both his parents.

Yes! I think the only vineyard holding in common is Beaux Bruns. So that wine may improve some. Perhaps the village wines will benefit. It should be good news that a stable vigneron is taking up good sites in Beaujolais, though to date the efforts from Boillot only hint at top flight cru Beaujolais.

The interesting decisions for M Clément might be what to do with the ancient vines in Pruliers, Cherbaudes, and Fuées and what to do (tertiary for him, more important for us) about distribution in the U.S. as I *believe* importation for Barthod is all with Rosenthal and for Louis Boillot is all Rare Wine Co.

A real shame that more Pruliers doesn't land stateside. There aren't many bottles I hold on to that don't have a single note in CellarTracker - this is often an example.

Honestly, I've found a certain pliancy missing from most Burgundians making Beaujolais and I have found the few Boillot M-A-Vs I've tried to be blocky (but then again, M-A-V is comparatively blocky by nature).

It's doubly interesting because Rosenthal represented Boillot right after the brothers split the property but then left for Rare (but also for a couple of smaller regional importers, although I'm not sure if this is still going on or not).

It'll be a fascinating domain to watch with the ability to taste up and down Burgundy within a vigneron run domain.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:

I'm probably out of the Boillot business since we haven't been doing any business with the distributor and even before then that relationship was fraying. Rare Wine is the importer my distributor sources through. They also sell the wines at retail..

I'm still a fan and Louis Boillot still makes up the overwhelming majority of my red Burgundy collection. But I have also slowed the purchases in recent years because the wines are not exactly forthcoming and it might help me to get some more proof that the investment is worth it. Especially given my modest storage capacity.

It's going to be really interesting when Clément Boillot-Barthod takes over for both his parents. We're probably not far off that now. From Fixin to Gevrey to Chambolle to Nuits to Pommard to Volnay and then down to Moulin à Vent and I may have left something out. I think I would keep buying if I got allocations but probably not as much. I think that the house style mixed with warmer vintages may make the wines easier early, but who knows. Maybe I'll pop a 2016 sometime soon just to see.

I’ve heard rumors this is happening now although the domaines have not been merged (yet?).

I've heard rumors that the different Domaine Pavelots are going to be acquired by a local gentleman and the lot of them renamed Domaine Pavel.
 
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