Encompassing a birthday with several favorites and a couple of new wines.
2008 Guy Larmandier Champagne Signé François Vieilles Vignes Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (12/11/2020)
Consistent with previous bottles. This has been a lovely workhorse for us. Guy Larmandier Champagnes were a staple and one of my earliest grower Champagnes about 25 years ago and I'm so happy to be getting reacquainted. (92 points)
2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne (12/11/2020)
I wanted to open something "fancy" to mark my wife's birthday and I was hoping for a better showing with this wine than last year with just the two of us to enjoy it. It was very good, with hints of spice and toast to yellow fruit flavors. Still has good mousse and nice grip but compared to the more characterful grower Champagnes we enjoy, it was a bit boring. This was my last bottle and I won't be seeking out more of this or, probably, other vintages. There is so much going on in Champagne and so many other wines that suit us better. (93 points)
1996 François Pinon Vouvray 1er Trie - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (12/11/2020)
A really beautiful bottle firmly settled into its middle age of richness yet still perfectly balanced and shaped. Opened to pair with seared foie gras and apples and the match was perfect. Among the best wine and food matches of the year. This wine has had quite the incredible life. I drank a ton of it early as it was showing this wild balance between acid and sugar and was bright, crunchy and floral. To have it now as it matures and tilts more towards honeyed notes while still showing some glimpses of its former self is why we cellar these things after all. I think the Pinon wines are vastly underrated. (94 points)
1980 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva Bucerchiale - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina (12/11/2020)
We've had pretty good luck with these birth year wines from Italy. I think this was probably made in a pretty industrial fashion, with lots of sulfur and was probably screetchy in youth. It has mature dried fruit flavors and nice spice and leather undertones. A bit of a tannic scratch and plenty of acidity. Exceeded expectations, which were pretty low. (90 points)
2016 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (12/12/2020)
Another excellent Collier blanc. Deeply pitched yellow fruits with a slightly waxy edge. Laser like focus and real intensity on the back end. Finishes long and structured. Air brought out more floral and spring meadow elements. I really can't get enough of these wines. (93 points)
2018 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos du Breuil - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire (12/13/2020)
It's been a minute since I've tasted Chidaine's wines and I do miss them. They're somewhere in between the natural texture of, for example, Mosse and something more mainstream like Huet. It's that textural generosity mixed with the full spectrum of Chenin aromas and flavors that makes it so enjoyable. Not the last word in structure, but enough acidity to work well at the table. Not sure it will be a long aging wine but that's less important than how wonderfully it shows now. (92 points)
2019 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken "Mutter Anna" #1 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (12/13/2020)
This looks to be another excellent edition of this wine which seems to really excel in warm years (but maybe that's all we have anymore). All the mineral, saline inflected fruit you'd expect from this wine with maybe a little extra gear of concentration. Just getting started. (92 points)
2016 Podere le Boncie (Giovanna Morganti) Le Trame Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (12/17/2020)
An interesting counterpoint to many of the other 2016 Tuscan wines we've been drinking in that it has a real lightness and more of a crunchy red fruit profile. A lean savory quality cuts through the middle and the finish is bright and bouncy. I liked it more than Steph. Plenty going on now, but should become more complex with a couple of years. Really easy to drink. This doesn't get to my market but I'll look to pick up some more if it crosses my path. (92 points)
2016 Domaine Andrée (Stéphane Erissé) Anjou Blanc Les Faraunières - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Anjou (12/19/2020)
Very cool combination of the brassy side of Chenin while also maintaining freshness. Has some wool and lanolin notes while still having well chiseled fruit. I think this is my first time with this wine. It's an interesting and serious effort. I'll probably keep a bottle or two around to see what happens. A producer to keep an eye on, for sure. (92 points)
NV Savart Champagne Premier Cru L'Accomplie - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (12/20/2020)
A nice, toasty somewhat loose bottle of this wine. Charming and seemed very much barrel aged Pinot Noir (although I think it has Chardonnay and I don't know for sure if it is barrel aged). Maybe lacks a bit of verve but otherwise delish. (91 points)
2015 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/20/2020)
Really young and compact. Shows that medicinal quality, sort of like an aloe wrapping, to the red fruits. Savory, dense tannin but in a medium bodied package. This should be really good with 8-10 years or more, depending on your preferences. It was interesting enough to follow over a couple of days (where it barely budged) to get a read on it. (92+ points)
2018 Domaine Gramenon Côtes du Rhône L'Emouvante - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (12/20/2020)
Consistent with my last bottle but this one had a bit more savory structure to match the buoyant deep, dark fruits. (91 points)
2008 Guy Larmandier Champagne Signé François Vieilles Vignes Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (12/11/2020)
Consistent with previous bottles. This has been a lovely workhorse for us. Guy Larmandier Champagnes were a staple and one of my earliest grower Champagnes about 25 years ago and I'm so happy to be getting reacquainted. (92 points)
2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne (12/11/2020)
I wanted to open something "fancy" to mark my wife's birthday and I was hoping for a better showing with this wine than last year with just the two of us to enjoy it. It was very good, with hints of spice and toast to yellow fruit flavors. Still has good mousse and nice grip but compared to the more characterful grower Champagnes we enjoy, it was a bit boring. This was my last bottle and I won't be seeking out more of this or, probably, other vintages. There is so much going on in Champagne and so many other wines that suit us better. (93 points)
1996 François Pinon Vouvray 1er Trie - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (12/11/2020)
A really beautiful bottle firmly settled into its middle age of richness yet still perfectly balanced and shaped. Opened to pair with seared foie gras and apples and the match was perfect. Among the best wine and food matches of the year. This wine has had quite the incredible life. I drank a ton of it early as it was showing this wild balance between acid and sugar and was bright, crunchy and floral. To have it now as it matures and tilts more towards honeyed notes while still showing some glimpses of its former self is why we cellar these things after all. I think the Pinon wines are vastly underrated. (94 points)
1980 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rùfina Riserva Bucerchiale - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina (12/11/2020)
We've had pretty good luck with these birth year wines from Italy. I think this was probably made in a pretty industrial fashion, with lots of sulfur and was probably screetchy in youth. It has mature dried fruit flavors and nice spice and leather undertones. A bit of a tannic scratch and plenty of acidity. Exceeded expectations, which were pretty low. (90 points)
2016 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (12/12/2020)
Another excellent Collier blanc. Deeply pitched yellow fruits with a slightly waxy edge. Laser like focus and real intensity on the back end. Finishes long and structured. Air brought out more floral and spring meadow elements. I really can't get enough of these wines. (93 points)
2018 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos du Breuil - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire (12/13/2020)
It's been a minute since I've tasted Chidaine's wines and I do miss them. They're somewhere in between the natural texture of, for example, Mosse and something more mainstream like Huet. It's that textural generosity mixed with the full spectrum of Chenin aromas and flavors that makes it so enjoyable. Not the last word in structure, but enough acidity to work well at the table. Not sure it will be a long aging wine but that's less important than how wonderfully it shows now. (92 points)
2019 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken "Mutter Anna" #1 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (12/13/2020)
This looks to be another excellent edition of this wine which seems to really excel in warm years (but maybe that's all we have anymore). All the mineral, saline inflected fruit you'd expect from this wine with maybe a little extra gear of concentration. Just getting started. (92 points)
2016 Podere le Boncie (Giovanna Morganti) Le Trame Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (12/17/2020)
An interesting counterpoint to many of the other 2016 Tuscan wines we've been drinking in that it has a real lightness and more of a crunchy red fruit profile. A lean savory quality cuts through the middle and the finish is bright and bouncy. I liked it more than Steph. Plenty going on now, but should become more complex with a couple of years. Really easy to drink. This doesn't get to my market but I'll look to pick up some more if it crosses my path. (92 points)
2016 Domaine Andrée (Stéphane Erissé) Anjou Blanc Les Faraunières - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Anjou (12/19/2020)
Very cool combination of the brassy side of Chenin while also maintaining freshness. Has some wool and lanolin notes while still having well chiseled fruit. I think this is my first time with this wine. It's an interesting and serious effort. I'll probably keep a bottle or two around to see what happens. A producer to keep an eye on, for sure. (92 points)
NV Savart Champagne Premier Cru L'Accomplie - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (12/20/2020)
A nice, toasty somewhat loose bottle of this wine. Charming and seemed very much barrel aged Pinot Noir (although I think it has Chardonnay and I don't know for sure if it is barrel aged). Maybe lacks a bit of verve but otherwise delish. (91 points)
2015 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/20/2020)
Really young and compact. Shows that medicinal quality, sort of like an aloe wrapping, to the red fruits. Savory, dense tannin but in a medium bodied package. This should be really good with 8-10 years or more, depending on your preferences. It was interesting enough to follow over a couple of days (where it barely budged) to get a read on it. (92+ points)
2018 Domaine Gramenon Côtes du Rhône L'Emouvante - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (12/20/2020)
Consistent with my last bottle but this one had a bit more savory structure to match the buoyant deep, dark fruits. (91 points)