CWD: What did you drink last night (or whenever)?

originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
And I am not a huge fan of Neapolitan pizza or its rise in prevalence and popularity in NY.

Too soft and soggy?

Still, while one may have preferences, I find it hard not to enjoy good flour, cheese and tomatoes, regardless of the specs on how the crust comes out.
 
2001 Merkelbach Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese (AP #10) was remarkable this past weekend - one of those wines that felt remarkably delicate and gentle, yet had amazing presence. Beautiful, classic Mosel Riesling that was in a great place with the fruit still very fresh and youthful, but lots of savory development apparent as well. Label said Auslese, but it came across lighter and less sweet than most modern Kabinett (heck, even compared to some Kabinetts from that year.)

2021 Dönnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese last night was excellent in a very different way - much more a beam of energy with lots of ripe fruit up front, and lighter floral/mineral notes in the background. Much more forward in its fruit and sweetness with fantastic balance.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Do you mean pizza tondo -- small, round, crisp crust -- or pizza al taglio -- made on a baking sheet, somewhat focaccia like, sold by the etto?

The former. Piping hot.

The latter is available (in mediocre form) in NY already. Unless you know a good place. I’ve tried a few and they are just ok.
 
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
...with Varese-style pizzas ...

What is Varese-style pizza?

Good question because I don't think any Italians know either. The Provincia di Varese is best known for industry, but pizza. Naaaah.

And Jason - it is "tagliolini." Though the classic in Liguria is Trenette.

You are so right. The restaurant menu had a typo and I perpetuated it through my lazy cut-and-paste copying.

I am not a huge fan of Neapolitan pizza

Ok. I saw the pic on their website. Got it. But mozzarella and tomatoes on pasta al pesto?!? That's heresy.

I am assuming your dislike refers to the NYC versions of Neopolitan Pizza and that you haven't eaten it in situ? There is a big difference.

That pasta works, heresy or not.

I haven’t been to Italy in a very long time and I’ve never been to Napoli, so yeah—I am speaking of American knock-offs.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Do you mean pizza tondo -- small, round, crisp crust -- or pizza al taglio -- made on a baking sheet, somewhat focaccia like, sold by the etto?

The former. Piping hot.

The latter is available (in mediocre form) in NY already. Unless you know a good place. I’ve tried a few and they are just ok.
Really hard to find a great tondo. There's good 'za in other styles, of course. I had been talking with Josh Raynolds about this shortly before.

Adrienne's, on Stone St., does good al taglio. Or, they used to; it's been a few years since I was down there.
 
originally posted by Salil Benegal:
2001 Merkelbach Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese (AP #10) was remarkable this past weekend - one of those wines that felt remarkably delicate and gentle, yet had amazing presence. Beautiful, classic Mosel Riesling that was in a great place with the fruit still very fresh and youthful, but lots of savory development apparent as well. Label said Auslese, but it came across lighter and less sweet than most modern Kabinett (heck, even compared to some Kabinetts from that year.)

2021 Dönnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese last night was excellent in a very different way - much more a beam of energy with lots of ripe fruit up front, and lighter floral/mineral notes in the background. Much more forward in its fruit and sweetness with fantastic balance.

Nice combo. Merkelbach is a bit of a fresh/rustic throwback, and I mean that only in the best ways!

And I rarely drink Dönnhoff these days, but the note is very inspiring. Sounds like good drinking!
 
2007 Vallana Gattinara is a real stunner right now. Cinnamon-like spicy and cran/mulberry nose with just a hint of tomato and tar. Lifted and perfumed. Beautifully weighted and pliant with both presence and a juiciness that makes you want to keep tasting it. 13% here is perfect. Wonderful on its own or with food. I was eating it with a Chicken Pakprikas my aunt made for the Jewish New Year.

I have no doubt it will easily go another decade or two if not more, but this is in that sweet spot now before it heads toward a more tertiary Nebbiolo phase.

I really wish I had more. I wasted the first bottle, me thinks, on an early look a few years ago.

IMG_4731.jpg
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
2007 Vallana Gattinara is a real stunner right now. Cinnamon-like spicy and cran/mulberry nose with just a hint of tomato and tar. Lifted and perfumed. Beautifully weighted and pliant with both presence and a juiciness that makes you want to keep tasting it. 13% here is perfect. Wonderful on its own or with food. I was eating it with a Chicken Pakprikas my aunt made for the Jewish New Year.

I have no doubt it will easily go another decade or two if not more, but this is in that sweet spot now before it heads toward a more tertiary Nebbiolo phase.

I really wish I had more. I wasted the first bottle, me thinks, on an early look a few years ago.

IMG_4731.jpg

Nice. I can never quite tell what is meant by "lifted." Not volatile, I presume?
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
2007 Vallana Gattinara is a real stunner right now. Cinnamon-like spicy and cran/mulberry nose with just a hint of tomato and tar. Lifted and perfumed. Beautifully weighted and pliant with both presence and a juiciness that makes you want to keep tasting it. 13% here is perfect. Wonderful on its own or with food. I was eating it with a Chicken Pakprikas my aunt made for the Jewish New Year.

I have no doubt it will easily go another decade or two if not more, but this is in that sweet spot now before it heads toward a more tertiary Nebbiolo phase.

I really wish I had more. I wasted the first bottle, me thinks, on an early look a few years ago.
I didn't know the wines back 12-15 years ago. I've found recent vintages quite approachable young. Was this wine that way, too, upon release or has there been a change in style/winemaking?
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
2007 Vallana Gattinara is a real stunner right now. Cinnamon-like spicy and cran/mulberry nose with just a hint of tomato and tar. Lifted and perfumed. Beautifully weighted and pliant with both presence and a juiciness that makes you want to keep tasting it. 13% here is perfect. Wonderful on its own or with food. I was eating it with a Chicken Pakprikas my aunt made for the Jewish New Year.

I have no doubt it will easily go another decade or two if not more, but this is in that sweet spot now before it heads toward a more tertiary Nebbiolo phase.

I really wish I had more. I wasted the first bottle, me thinks, on an early look a few years ago.
I didn't know the wines back 12-15 years ago. I've found recent vintages quite approachable young. Was this wine that way, too, upon release or has there been a change in style/winemaking?

I don’t know if there has been a change because I didn’t buy young Vallana until a few years ago and other experiences were decades-old wines. On release, this wine was more ornery and not ready.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
2007 Vallana Gattinara is a real stunner right now. Cinnamon-like spicy and cran/mulberry nose with just a hint of tomato and tar. Lifted and perfumed. Beautifully weighted and pliant with both presence and a juiciness that makes you want to keep tasting it. 13% here is perfect. Wonderful on its own or with food. I was eating it with a Chicken Pakprikas my aunt made for the Jewish New Year.

I have no doubt it will easily go another decade or two if not more, but this is in that sweet spot now before it heads toward a more tertiary Nebbiolo phase.

I really wish I had more. I wasted the first bottle, me thinks, on an early look a few years ago.

IMG_4731.jpg

Nice. I can never quite tell what is meant by "lifted." Not volatile, I presume?

Lifted is more for me about how the aromatics seem to penetrate and spread retronasally.

There may be a hint of VA in this wine. I didn’t really notice but wouldn’t be surprised. But it’s not what I meant by “lifted”.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
2007 Vallana Gattinara is a real stunner right now. Cinnamon-like spicy and cran/mulberry nose with just a hint of tomato and tar. Lifted and perfumed. Beautifully weighted and pliant with both presence and a juiciness that makes you want to keep tasting it. 13% here is perfect. Wonderful on its own or with food. I was eating it with a Chicken Pakprikas my aunt made for the Jewish New Year.

I have no doubt it will easily go another decade or two if not more, but this is in that sweet spot now before it heads toward a more tertiary Nebbiolo phase.

I really wish I had more. I wasted the first bottle, me thinks, on an early look a few years ago.
I didn't know the wines back 12-15 years ago. I've found recent vintages quite approachable young. Was this wine that way, too, upon release or has there been a change in style/winemaking?

I don’t know if there has been a change because I didn’t buy young Vallana until a few years ago and other experiences were decades-old wines. On release, this wine was more ornery and not ready.

I think the major changes were in better vineyard practices, shorter post-fermentation macerations, and the significant change in climate. Additionally I have the impression from tasting more recent examples that the very old, funky large cooperage has been renewed. I lived in Piemonte from the mid 70s to mid 90s, and was fortunate to taste wines during my initial period there from the 50s and 60s. They were always pretty tough (hard tannins) and bit on the oxidized side.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
I was eating it with a Chicken Pakprikas my aunt made for the Jewish New Year.
I was also eating Chicken Paprikas -- my own, not your aunt's -- but chose La Grosse Pierre 2020 Morgon "Douby" to accompany: black cherry and dirt, vying for control over the 24 hours it was opened, medium-weight, 14.5% but carries it well, very happy with this wine (and their regular Chiroubles bottlings).
 
I had Chicken Paprikash tonight - by my own hand - because of overoptimism about cooling near-autumn weather (the humidity really raced in this afternoon). Opened a 2019 Danjou-Banessy La Truffière Blanc and 2009 Domaine Gilles Troullier Côtes Catalanes Boréal; the former played Zorro capably with the stew, the latter was too much, enough, oh oh.
 
2016 Dirty & Rowdy Alder Springs Merlot is another stunner. The only bottle of domestic Merlot I’ve bought since 1998 turns out to be a RB ringer after a few years in the cellar. This wine is singing. Bravo, Hardy!

IMG_4734-1.jpg
 
2002 Arlaul Clos de la Roche, fourth bottle of a six-pack. Started trying these about 15 years in, I think. The first bottle just tasted bad, decomposing vegetables, off-putting, razor-back acidity, bad. Just at the end of the bottle, I detected a possible intimation of quelque chose du bien. Second bottle, few years later, similar. Third bottle, maybe two years ago, the crap and acidity cleared up after a few days, unmasking a pleasant but unengaging cote de Baune style thing. This bottle showed traces of the old razor-back and lots of must on the nose on opening, but gradually clarified over the period of an hour or so. The second half of the bottle, imbibed yesterday and today, is right on the threshold of grand cru quality, pure sour cherry, lovely, silky texture, the beginnings of volume, depth, and complexity.

These bottles, purchased at auction, where the Berkley Wine Stork (?) "Cuvee Unique," which I'm given to understand means it was subjected to unusually heavy wood treatment. Perhaps the long-term resolution of the imparted woody chemicals plays a role in its curious evolution.

I've been ready to write this wine off, so this bottle was a pleasant surprise; will be interesting to watch the last two in the coming years.
 
I have a bunch of these, for some reason. Looks like time to begin exploring. I recall the Bregeon Gorges of years past seemed to go on forever. Didn't Pepiere and Bregeon do a grape or juice swap in 2014? Clisson for Gorges, or something similar?
 
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