Zind Humbrecht 2005 Riesling (Alsace) 12% on the label, indice 1. That means dry, or at least dry to the taste. Is it? Yes, more or less; theres so much intensity than theres a definite sensation of sweetness, but the wine never tastes sugar, and the finish is quite dry. Otherwise, the dominant features of the wine are a laser-like acidity, the naked scent of sweaty lemongrass, and a hugeness that indicates a wine pushed to its limits. Is this a good or bad thing? It always depends, and this wine is as much on the fence as is this taster. (9/08)
Berres 1998 rziger Wrzgarten Riesling Sptlese 06 99 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Faint at first, but it grows into itself a bit. Yet it never quite reaches the rung it should grasp, remaining dusty and drying, despite good length. Theres a lack of presence, and also of the texture and mineral-spice of older riesling. A closed stage, then? Perhaps. (9/08)
Wlffer Estate Cabernet Franc (The Hamptons) Bell pepper soup with blueberries on top. Not an appealing combination. Ive had the very, very, very occasional success from Long Island, but most of them have tasted like this (or overoaked versions thereof). At least this has the virtue of not being Hamptons-priced, as so many of its neighbors are, though at around $20 its still asking about twice what its worth. (4/09)
Siduri 2006 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley) The immediate aromatic impression is of walking into a furniture factory: freshly-cut wood (not, I need to clarify, a comment on the wines levage), paint, and varnish, all powerfully intense. Then comes light fruit thats been charred to dark anger, perhaps with some beet and blood orange rind, which make me think that this could be a good ringer in a tasting of the Central Otagos brawniest styles. Theres bright acidity throughout, the alcohol (14.1%) is felt but does not intrude, balance is mostly achieved, and the wines by no means actively unpleasant to drink (though its a little assaultive to smell), butwell, I feel like Im drinking a tightly-clenched fist. This is a wine that wants to take a swing at someone. (4/09)
Lafage 2006 Vin de Pays des Ctes Catalanes ct SUD (Roussillon) Boisterous fruitiness (large, wet berries), a touch of smoke, and the faintest whiff of something earthier, with a little cedary structure from minority partner cabernet sauvignon. Pure fun. (4/09)
Scavino 2001 Langhe Sorriso (Piedmont) The must that overwhelms this wine is not that of cork contamination, but rather the stale aroma that seems common to overaged whites that were never meant to age in the first place. (4/09)
Berres 1998 rziger Wrzgarten Riesling Sptlese 06 99 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Faint at first, but it grows into itself a bit. Yet it never quite reaches the rung it should grasp, remaining dusty and drying, despite good length. Theres a lack of presence, and also of the texture and mineral-spice of older riesling. A closed stage, then? Perhaps. (9/08)
Wlffer Estate Cabernet Franc (The Hamptons) Bell pepper soup with blueberries on top. Not an appealing combination. Ive had the very, very, very occasional success from Long Island, but most of them have tasted like this (or overoaked versions thereof). At least this has the virtue of not being Hamptons-priced, as so many of its neighbors are, though at around $20 its still asking about twice what its worth. (4/09)
Siduri 2006 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley) The immediate aromatic impression is of walking into a furniture factory: freshly-cut wood (not, I need to clarify, a comment on the wines levage), paint, and varnish, all powerfully intense. Then comes light fruit thats been charred to dark anger, perhaps with some beet and blood orange rind, which make me think that this could be a good ringer in a tasting of the Central Otagos brawniest styles. Theres bright acidity throughout, the alcohol (14.1%) is felt but does not intrude, balance is mostly achieved, and the wines by no means actively unpleasant to drink (though its a little assaultive to smell), butwell, I feel like Im drinking a tightly-clenched fist. This is a wine that wants to take a swing at someone. (4/09)
Lafage 2006 Vin de Pays des Ctes Catalanes ct SUD (Roussillon) Boisterous fruitiness (large, wet berries), a touch of smoke, and the faintest whiff of something earthier, with a little cedary structure from minority partner cabernet sauvignon. Pure fun. (4/09)
Scavino 2001 Langhe Sorriso (Piedmont) The must that overwhelms this wine is not that of cork contamination, but rather the stale aroma that seems common to overaged whites that were never meant to age in the first place. (4/09)