Studert-Prm 2003 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ** 11 04 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 375 ml. Makrut lime leaf and iron dust, extremely sweet, and not acidic enough. In a vacuum, that wouldnt be so bad, but knowing what it is kinda detracts from the impression; in that absence, it tastes a lot like a vendange tardive Alsatian riesling from a middle-tier producer in a middling year. Knowing the vintage mitigates the disappointment a bit, but this is still not a wine one will want to have bought in quantity. The finish is shortish, as well. Still, theres hardly anything wrong with it, it does speak (to an extent) of its place and its grape, and one could drink a lot worse. (4/09)
Schloss Schnborn 2005 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett 019 06 (Rheingau) Extremely sweet, with wet acidity; this could be an auslese by its character, though it wouldnt be a very good one, because it lacks much aside from the basic fact of its structure and a swoosh of tropicality. The problem is that its not a very good kabinett either; even by modern standards, its hellishly large. Only by ignoring classifications can the wines actual appeal be assessedand there, its tasty enough. Maybe age will help, but I suspect not all that much of it. (4/09)
Txomin Etxaniz 2007 Getariako Txakolina Getaria (Northwest Spain) Somewhere between perlant and ptillant, and yanking the promise of electric greenness so far to the left that the wine turns to a blinding shade of whiteslashing, shocking, but never alighting. I dig it. Theres more than can be done with this grape, and Id call this txakolina 1.5 (that is, not quite the 2.0 of Ameztoi), but even this much is awfully appealing with the right chill and the right food (saline, with a shell or carapace, and not otherwise doused with flavorants). (4/09)
Sogrape Vinha do Monte 2006 Alentejano (Portugal) Dark, earth-clad berries with a fair amount of internal darkness. The structure, while still present, is already showing the initial signs of erosion. But the wines in a very good place at the moment, with or without food. (4/09)
Almanseas La Huella de Adaras 2005 Almansa (Levant) Purple fruit, focused and cylindrical, into which hints and allegations of black dirt cannot penetrate far. Its young, yet it already seems to be all the way to wherever its getting. Juicy and gluggarrific. (4/09)
Schloss Schnborn 2005 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett 019 06 (Rheingau) Extremely sweet, with wet acidity; this could be an auslese by its character, though it wouldnt be a very good one, because it lacks much aside from the basic fact of its structure and a swoosh of tropicality. The problem is that its not a very good kabinett either; even by modern standards, its hellishly large. Only by ignoring classifications can the wines actual appeal be assessedand there, its tasty enough. Maybe age will help, but I suspect not all that much of it. (4/09)
Txomin Etxaniz 2007 Getariako Txakolina Getaria (Northwest Spain) Somewhere between perlant and ptillant, and yanking the promise of electric greenness so far to the left that the wine turns to a blinding shade of whiteslashing, shocking, but never alighting. I dig it. Theres more than can be done with this grape, and Id call this txakolina 1.5 (that is, not quite the 2.0 of Ameztoi), but even this much is awfully appealing with the right chill and the right food (saline, with a shell or carapace, and not otherwise doused with flavorants). (4/09)
Sogrape Vinha do Monte 2006 Alentejano (Portugal) Dark, earth-clad berries with a fair amount of internal darkness. The structure, while still present, is already showing the initial signs of erosion. But the wines in a very good place at the moment, with or without food. (4/09)
Almanseas La Huella de Adaras 2005 Almansa (Levant) Purple fruit, focused and cylindrical, into which hints and allegations of black dirt cannot penetrate far. Its young, yet it already seems to be all the way to wherever its getting. Juicy and gluggarrific. (4/09)
