TN: Strada Provinciale 68 and other roads

Arnt Egil Nordlien

Arnt Egil Nordlien
Notes for those who are interested.

Schloss Neuweierer traminer auslese natur 1964, August Rssler/Schloss Neuweier
From the forgotten producer that gave us mauerwein. Yellow colour. Lightly aromatic, smokey and spicey traminer. Complex and aged notes with a lot of minerality. Dark wet earth, almost a vulcanic feel. Fullbodied and somewhat sweet traminer in the mouth. Slightly fatness in the mouth. Smokey, mineral fruit. Some rosewater. Evolved and complex. The fruit is very fine and has aged gracefully. Medium to low acids. A lightly bitter mineral note on the finish. Good length. This was a great wine that drink beautifully now. On top now, but has the stuffing to last even longer.

SP68 2008, Arianna Occhipinti
I don't know the story behind this wine, but this seems to be what every great Cerasuolo di Vittoria should be like. Violet colour. Fresh and fruity nose. Pretty. Hints of red berries, lightly floral notes, some anise. Clean, acidic and fruity Sicilian in the mouth. This is built around a very clean fine young fruit. Strawberries and mostly hints of the Frappato. Flowers, candies. A little hint of darker berries. High and cleansing acids. Little tannins. How utterly tempting juice.

Etna rosso Guardiola 2005, Tenuta di Terre Nere
How utterly.....different. Dark red colour. Utterly modern made intense and fruity Etna on the nose. But, ok, it is pretty. Hints of dark berries, fine floral high-notes, some ash and apparent oak-notes. A bit sweetish. Powerful and concentrated wine in the mouth. There is lots of oak here, but also dark berries, anise and fine floral high-notes. This has some depth, but the oak is a little too much for me. It has integrated somewhat and this is better than a bottle a couple of years ago. Medium acids and a tannic finish that shows those hard woody notes.

Il Frappato 2005, Arianna Occhipinti
The Frappato from Occhipinti is always such a fascinating and great wine from the start. But I did lay a couple of bottles of the 2005 down to see what would happen. And what a success it was. Red colour. Great-great nose. This has gained in intensity. It has still the very fine florality and lightly hints of acidic candies. There is a touch of tobacco that was not there before. Light and elegant wine in the mouth. Floral fruit with a core of cherries and lemon. Again there is a touch of tobacco. Fine acidity. Refreshing. Light tannins and a touch of anise on the finish. Good length. Great-great wine that has developed better than I expected. I am tempted to forget the last bottle for more years. How utterly exciting juice.

Schodener Herrenberg riesling auslese No.7 1999, Weinhof Herrenberg
I liked this very much. A great effort from this vintage. Not as steely as one expects from Saar. Also quite round and kind Saar-wine and makes me think more of Mittel-Mosel. Yellow colour. Lightly greenish hues. Pretty nose. Complex and shows some development. Highly mineral. Hints of honey, petrol, with air some botrytis-notes showing. Fine botrytis for this year. Sweetish riesling auslese in the mouth. Light fat and some hints of botrytis. Still quite clear and fine fruit. Mineral style. Hints of honey, petrol. Light dry-extract on the finish. Starting to drink nicely now, but will last for many years.

Cote de Brouilly Cuvee Zaccharie Geoffray 2002, Chateau Thivin
Another great-great bottle. Red colour. Red fruits on the nose. Fine floral notes. Hints of stone and mienrality. Pure and clear gamay. Fullbodied and structured gamay in the mouth. Again the fruit is pure and focused. Dark notes for a gamay and with fine florality and hints of wet stone. Medium acidity and a tight finish still showin tannins. This seems to just have reached it's top and will probably still be there for another 5-10 years.

Umweger Stich den Buben riesling Selection trocken 2001, Gut Ngelsfrst
Sorry for those dirty words. The wine is less dirty than that. Tastes more like a simple riesling from a warmer part of Germany. Yellow colour. Pretty nose. Mineral, petrol. Ripe fruits. Apricot, some honey. Light and dry riesling in the mouth. Mature fruit. More honeyed and apricot-like notes here. Some minerality and petrol, but seems simpler than the nose. Medium to good acids. Lower than expected in a year like this. Medium length. Seems mature now. Good, but a little anonymous.

Neuweierer Mauerberg riesling trockenbeerenauslese RJS-privat 2001, Gut Ngelsfrst
Anything but anonymous. Brownish colour. Intense sweet nose. Botrytis and citrus being the first impressions. With swirling caramel, raisins, red berries - like blackcurrant. Powerful, sweet and fat wine in the mouth. Loads of botrytis here. This is a big TBA. Big-big really. Caramelly and citrusy fruit. Some red berries there. Still a very young wine and perhaps slightly on the rustic side. Great acidic structure. Long citrusy finish. Great sweet riesling. Will age forever.

Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese Bricco Mondalino 2008, Bricco Mondalino
Transparent red colour. Deep for a grignolino. Lightly aromatic and pretty nose of red berries, currant, anise and tar. Medium bodied and a quite powerful grignolino in the mouth. Clear grignolino-fruit. Lot of red berries, currant. Fine hints of tar and anise. Good depth and interesting wine. Fine acidity and the finish shows some tannins. Very good grignolino on the young side. It is drinkable now for enjoying the fresh, young fruit. I suggest giving it 3-4 more years.

l'Etoile cuvee des ceps d'Or 1997, Chateau l'Etoile
Yes, I love this wine. Lightly brownish colour with greenish hues. Slightly cloudy. Complex and fascinating nose with a voile-character. Hints of sotolon, voile, nuts, dried flowers, coffee. Quite slim and dry Jura-wine in the mouth. Concentrated. Evolved and complex fruit. Nutty, voile-character with lots of sotolon and hints of dried flowers. Great depth. Cleansing acids. Long citrusy finish. Great wine. Mature.

Condrieu 2007, Jean-Paul Brun
Tastes like someone tried to do nice things with viognier. That said it is still viognier. Straw colour. Lightly aromatic nose with typical hints of perfume and sweet flowers. Also anise and some minerality. In the mouth this is a clean and pure viognier with a fine concentration. Not too ripe fruits. Some perfume and flowers, yet balanced with some minerality and notes of anise. Decent acidity and a long perfumed finish. Very good Condrieu, but the price is a bit high for the quality.
 
SP68 2008, Arianna Occhipinti

Etna rosso Guardiola 2005, Tenuta di Terre Nere
How utterly.....different.

No surprise, as these are made from totally different grapes, and a different region of Sicilia....
 
As always, nice selection of wines and producers.

And forty year old gewurztraminer! Who knew! I didn't. Sounds like fun.
 
O5 Occhipinti Frappato - I do love this wine. Several of the ones I've drank have had some horsey brett as part of the wine's character. Not enough to detract, but noticeable. It seemed to go through a closed phase in '08, glad to hear its coming around. All of my bottles the cork was pretty soaked, I was afraid to cellar them.

Have you tried the '05 Occhipinti Nero d'Avila recently?
 
I love the wines - the best ones still have a Saar-style minerality, if not acidity. Le Gallais Kabinett (one of the vintages where I prefer it to the Scharzhofberger), Zilliken's range, Dr. Wagner's range, Schloss Saarstein - the list goes on and on.
 
originally posted by Marc D:
O5 Occhipinti Frappato - I do love tis wine. Several of the ones I've drank have had some horsey brett as part of the wine's character. Not enough to detract, but noticeable. It seemed to go through a closed phase in '08, glad to hear its coming around. All of my bottles the cork was pretty soaked.
Have you tried the '05 Occhipinti Nero d'Avila recently?

Yes I had a bottle of the Siccagno '05 about half a year ago. It was a rubbery and weird bottle. Not sure what to expect for the future, but I have not opened more bottles.
 
originally posted by Arnt Egil Nordlien:
originally posted by Marc D:
O5 Occhipinti Frappato - I do love tis wine. Several of the ones I've drank have had some horsey brett as part of the wine's character. Not enough to detract, but noticeable. It seemed to go through a closed phase in '08, glad to hear its coming around. All of my bottles the cork was pretty soaked.
Have you tried the '05 Occhipinti Nero d'Avila recently?

Yes I had a bottle of the Siccagno '05 about half a year ago. It was a rubbery and weird bottle. Not sure what to expect for the future, but I have not opened more bottles.

The 2006 has come around rather nicely, but there seems to be a bit of what I would call reduction in the wine. I often get confused in that what I identify as reduced, others call brett. Actually, I do suspect an interaction effect would explain more variance than either orthogonally.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
Etna rosso Guardiola 2005, Tenuta di Terre Nere
How utterly.....different.

No surprise, as these are made from totally different grapes, and a different region of Sicilia....

I've never really noticed wood notes (that is from oak barrels) in this wine.

Does anyone know the story?

The Terre Nere stuff I've had has been great (I've never tried the real fancy stuff though). I like their olive oil too. It was a staple when I lived in CA and shopped at Hi-Times.
 
The Terre Nere wines, especially the Guardiola, tend to have a serious extraction and a pretty ample amount of wood in general. 18 months in french barrique (like 20% new i believe) tends to make these have a bit of wood tannins in my experience. We opened the whole line up at the store this year(2007's) and they all showed just tons potent, modern and herbal notes that i associate with the house style. My perennial favorite is usually the Feudo di Mezzo and i really enjoyed that this year as well. The Calderara Sottana and Guardiola had that metallic, graphite mineral tone that i notice often with them (plus i am a believer that the Calderara Sottana should not be in the same price bracket as the other top wines). The new wine, the Santo Spirito, was quite nice. I remember a lot of softer fruit with a bright acid backbone that seemed to be very enjoyable and better for shorter term consumption. I liked the 2007 Prephollexera as well this year. The 06 last year was just tight as nails but i found the 07 to be much more approachable and telling of the older vines this year. All in all these wines are an interesting introduction and a sold offering from Etna though i think that the easier and more enjoyable wine has been the Passopisciaro, it too is big and modern but has a feeling of being much more put together upon release than the Terre Nere wines. I also grabbed a bottle of the 2008 Guardiola Bianco from Passopisciaro when in Italy this year. I opened it a couple months ago and i found it to be beautiful. It is mostly chardonnay with dabs of carricante and catarratto, ecc. and was just filled with minerals, honey, herbal tones and a really nice balance of acid and body.

Also, the occhipinti frappato is a really sick wine, every bottle has it's own anima. I love it!
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by MarkS:
Etna rosso Guardiola 2005, Tenuta di Terre Nere
How utterly.....different.

No surprise, as these are made from totally different grapes, and a different region of Sicilia....

I've never really noticed wood notes (that is from oak barrels) in this wine.

Does anyone know the story?

The Terre Nere stuff I've had has been great (I've never tried the real fancy stuff though). I like their olive oil too. It was a staple when I lived in CA and shopped at Hi-Times.

i'm a fan of the terre nere wines, but the fancy stuff has gotten way to expensive way too quickly.
 
...(plus i am a believer that the Calderara Sottana should not be in the same price bracket as the other top wines).

This was true up to the 2007 vintage I think. The Caldera Sottana used to be their 'basic' Etna blend, but then they decided it should be a cru wine like Feudo and Guardiola were, and priced it accordingly (all are now in the mid-upper $30 range, before, the Caldera was about $10 cheaper). Now they have a basic Etna Rosso that should sell for around $20.
 
To me it just seems that the quality of the Calderara is not worth the 20 dollar premium. I like the basic rosso at 20 bucks but i dont think that the calderara should have been bumped up, even with the quality of the 07 vintage.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
...(plus i am a believer that the Calderara Sottana should not be in the same price bracket as the other top wines).

This was true up to the 2007 vintage I think. The Caldera Sottana used to be their 'basic' Etna blend, but then they decided it should be a cru wine like Feudo and Guardiola were, and priced it accordingly (all are now in the mid-upper $30 range, before, the Caldera was about $10 cheaper). Now they have a basic Etna Rosso that should sell for around $20.

In Norway the Calderara is only 3-4 US$ up from the basic rosso. The Guardiola is another 16-17US$ up from the Calderara.
 
2007 is the year for Terre Nere reds. The wines are noticeably better than the last three vintages from that producer offered. Also, they are much more approachable than the '06s. The Pre-phy bottling in 2007 is, I think, much better than the same in 2006. Of course, it is expensive.

The 2007 Passopisciaro "Passopisciaro" red is too oaky for me. I greatly preferred the 2006 of the same, now sold out.

The difference between the Passopisciaro "Guardiola" white in 2007 and then in 2008 is startling. A completely different wine. And I think there is some Viognier in the 2008, judging from the way it tastes.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
The 2007 Passopisciaro "Passopisciaro" red is too oaky for me. I greatly preferred the 2006.

Could you say a little more about that? Are you saying, as in "underwined"? Or for near term drinking?
I really enjoyed the 05, have some 06 that I haven't opened, and was thinking about the now available 07.
 
originally posted by Ned Hoey:
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
The 2007 Passopisciaro "Passopisciaro" red is too oaky for me. I greatly preferred the 2006.

Could you say a little more about that? Are you saying, as in "underwined"? Or for near term drinking?
I really enjoyed the 05, have some 06 that I haven't opened, and was thinking about the now available 07.

Well, I think your question implies that the straight Passopisciaro "Passopisciaro" red (as opposed to the Passopisciaro "Franchetti") is generally for ageing, and that is not my take. Checking in with the 2005 not too long ago, I found a wine that wasn't holding up too well. The 2006 was much better at the beginning of it's release run (we sold a ton of it) than at the end. In both cases, the fruit basically dried up. I believe this is due to partial carbonic treatment. I think that it is basically a wine for near term drinking in general, unless they change someting. And for me, the 2007 is sporting a level of oak that is immediately apparent, and also annoying. I do not predict a future where that oak will integrate.
 
Umm... well... I defer to your more extensive experience. I do refer to the "Passopisciaro" and I'm grateful for the assessment (wake up call). You've awoken me from my misguided complacency and I will now scramble to salvage what remains.

I will say though that is a brisk evolution arc.
 
originally posted by Ned Hoey:
Umm... well... I defer to your more extensive experience. I do refer to the "Passopisciaro" and I'm grateful for the assessment (wake up call). You've awoken me from my misguided complacency and I will now scramble to salvage what remains.

I will say though that is a brisk evolution arc.

If your results end up differing, I would appreciate it if you would let me know.
 
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