I post an old writeup that is from the lost archives of another site:
It was a big birthday recently for Mark, and we went upstairs at Chez Panisse. A small table, just 5 of us. The vegetables, and particularly the salad greens at CP remain a reason to come to California often. Seeing my old friend Jim Churchills new Kishu tangerines mentioned by name on the dessert menu tickled me as I waited for the others to arrive. We warm up with a perfectly fine bottle of their house Fleury Champagne, but get serious fast with a rich, savory, exotic, lip-smacking bottle of 1989 Meo-Camuzet Cros Parantoux. Spectacular young wine. I dont need a hell of a lot more from Burgundy than this.
Regrettably, my 1954 Bosconia was corked, but Aldo Conternos 1989 Granbussia was as grand as it should be. Took a while in the decanter to get rolling, but it rocked when it did. Great balance of fruit and structure, plenty of young tannins, wonderful. Best Barolo of my recent life. Roasted pork leg and pork sausages were great with it.
But then it was time to open the 1921 Le Haut Lieu from Huet. Curiously, it seems that the Huet family didnt buy the vineyard until 1928, so this is old stock from a previous owner, now with the Huet family label. The vintage is the most famous of the century in the Loire, in many appellations ahead of 1947. Ive been hunting this wine for years, and finally found it in an auction direct from the estate at Christies in the spring of 2004 in London. The wine had a couple of weeks to rest in SF before dinner.
Green-tinged brown color, remarkably like a sweet old Madeira, as has been mentioned before about other old Vouvray. Clearly a botrytis vintage, darker than 1919 or 1924. Slightly hazy, and a fair bit of black sediment was present in flecks at the end of the bottle.
Botrytis still on nose, some va, and a glorious complex old Vouvray bouquet, powerful and fragrant. Thad notes lanolin, we all note stones and flowers and an aroma that fills the air. Not a delicate wine like the 24, 35, or 36, but more substantial.
In the mouth, the wine is quite sweet, but perhaps not so sweet as the great postwar vintages. Or maybe its just that there is still a vibrant backbone of acidity stiffening the sweetness. This is a potent package, not showing its years, not in decline. Decades of life ahead, as Mikey might say. The structure can make you neglect the considerable sweetness that remains, but this is not a syrupy wine. Ive never had the 21 Bredif, but it seems that that wine must be sweeter. The 21 Huet doesnt have the same flamboyance as a great bottle of 1947 LHL M, but it has a riveting clarity and great kaleidoscopic length that make it a different beast. It uncoils on your tongue endlessly, revealing different sides, sparkling from different facets.
We all sip this compulsively, the acid makes it endlessly refreshing. Peter Schleimer says that its so addictive that he could take small sips over a couple of hours and drink a bottle by himself. He sees my frown and laughs, but I say that this is the sort of bottle I could never open without company and an occasion. 1971 demisec, I mention, could be a secret vice for me. That wine I could suck down in solitude every night. But the 1921 demands company and an occasion and is unthinkable otherwise.
Jim Churchills Kishu tangerines were grand, with some not very sweet Barhi dates. Thanks to Mark and Molly for a great dinner.