It was my birthday on Sunday and it's been an okay weekend of overindulgence in the fields of wine and food, mingled with lots of discussion about politics (USA and Austria), dead movie star/car racers, musicians, and economics. Whatever...
Sunday night at Providence, started with 1986 Philipponnat Clos des Goises. We decanted it for about half an hour and it needed it. The Pinot is very apparent in this wine, and had we been drinking it blind it probably would have been decreed a red wine (albeit with bubbles).
That was followed by a 1979 Ramonet Batard-Montrachet that was the most perfect Chardonnay I've had since well, last week's 1991 Kalin. The Ramonet was light and complex and oh so easy to drink. Time to drink 'em up if you have any, but who the hell has any left anymore, it's a 1979, for crying out loud!
We then opened a 1989 Louis Latour Batard-Montrachet that was corked so we moved along to the 1990 Lafon Meursault-Genevrieres. It was more caramel-colored than the 79 and tasted a little fuller and richer than the Ramonet but wasn't as interesting a wine. Not that it mattered. It wasn't a beauty contest, we were just enjoying.
Last night the scene shifted to Spago. We began with a Camille Saves Ros that was nigh-well perfect. Beautiful salmony color and full on the palate with a lot of complexity on the finish. The hosts had never heard of this producer (they're not from around these parts) and were surprised and delighted.
Next up was a 1989 Raveneau Butteaux. It was not only absent of flaws but it went over and above any expectations anyone might possibly have for a bottle of wine. I didn't exactly see Jesus smiling back at me from the glass but it was pretty close. The wine kept developing over a couple of hours, and it worked seamlessly with the agnoloti with sweet corn I drank it with.
Time for red wine so it was 1989 Gouges NSG Pruliers. This was singing as soon as it was opened and kept getting better for an hour or two. Not a brilliant vintage, not the most legendary Cru, but WTF, it was the right wine for the moment. We also had a 2001 Dugat Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques that was equally brilliant, only in a slightly different direction. It was bolder and brasher, lots more masculine than the more-delicate Gouges but with a rich texture that made it a joy to drink. Both of the Burgundies went really nicely with Puck's wiener schnitzel.
To end the evening our host blinded us with a white wine. The group narrowed it down to Dagueneau, one person said Silex and even going so far as to nail the vintage as a 2002. She was correct on both counts. Brilliant wine, phenomenal evening around wine and friendship and the vagaries of attempting to grow old with at least a semblance of grace. We closed the joint down and I eventually made it home in time to sleep for a couple of hours before having to show up for jury duty. I suspect that were I seated on a panel, I'd err benevolently in terms of mercy to the accused, based upon the bounteous pleasures I'd enjoyed over the previous few evenings.
-Eden (normally from the "hang 'em all, let God sort 'em out" school of justice)
