Wine geeks and fun folks, Bill and Lill Buitenhuys returned from their exile on Planet Metaluna to the great state of Massachusetts this past weekend. In honor of their temporary return, a few of us gathered at Casa Lawton for wine and chow. In attendance were:
Mike, Carla and Danielle Lawton
Trung and Martha Nguyen
Bill and Lill Buitenhuys
Me and Amy
PMAC
(Dogs: Ollie and Maggie Lawton plus Sprocket Perry)
We kicked the night off with a producer I dislike which is becoming more and more of a tradition (interpret for yourself the implications):
2005 Paolo Bea Coenobium: I will admit that I am jaded when it comes to the wines of Bea, but even taking that into consideration the nose on this wine was unpleasantly metallic. Thankfully, the palate was more interesting, but it was also very shrill. Complexity aside, this wine needs more fat or fruit or padding to help ease the finish. Based on the retail price, its not unreasonable, but the Nun habit needs to be hiked up.
1997 Trimbach CFE: If there is one constant about me and Trimbach, it is that I will adore smelling the wines. The palate wasnt as easy to judge - with the youthful and mature nuances beginning to trade places - but the potency and tannin promise the transition will not fall short in the end. This might fail to rival the Genie in the bottle of the 89 CFE, but I think it has much improvement to come.
2001 Knoll Riesling Reid Schutt Riesling: There is something very Eric Rohmer about the wines of Knoll. For example, while not having a lot of experience with Knolls wines, I have always found them very large and viscous. Of course, the great thing about being an Austrian wine is that you can be large and viscous and yet still be driven by mineral notes. Its the Jameks the Nigls and the Nikolaihofs the top wines are not lean and yet the result is still somehow restrained and respectable. Going one step further than the rest, Knoll has the sole ability to suffer stigmata and drive all the snakes out of Ireland just based on the label. If you dig it, like I do, this will be a competitor for wine of the night every time.
2000 Prager Achleiten Riesling: In a sharp contrast to the Knoll, this wine was far more Grunerish than Riesling. In fact, it was so much different from the Knoll that is caused speculation on the integrity of the wine. Like a Gruner, there was the presence of white pepper and (what I identify as) calcium. Beyond that, there was none of the *oomph* of the Knoll.
1988 Kalin Chardonnay DD: For some reason, Mike Lawton refused to drink this wine, but I think every one else was stoked after drinking it. Geographic location aside, the wines of Kalin feature an amazing aging trajectory. Ive tasted older, and many younger, Kalin Chards, but this was just about perfect for me. The expression was all nuts and spice, with a hint of cream and enough acidity to seal the deal. As with ESJ, it is nice to have an American wine to be proud of.
1999 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Spatlese: Classic Donnhoff nose with a palate that was apple scone and how are you dearie? comfort on the finish.
1993 Gouges NSG Les St. Georges: I really, really, really want to like Gouges. I even have a bottle of Gouges in the atrophied Burgundy section of my cellar, and yet Gouges makes it hard for me. In the glass this wine smelled like a promising Burg, but in the mouth this was painfully underfruited with an acid and tannin beating.
1995 Einaudi Costa Grimaldi Barolo: The nose was pleasant with notes of classic Nebbiolo, tarragon, and also some semi-resolved oak. The palate was moderately dense. If the fruit can hang on, this will be a nice Barolo in a few years.
1995 Seghisio La Villa Barolo: Seghisio, as I have always found them, are solidly proforming Barolo which will sooth even the most demanding Barolo itch. Moreover, this wine is a star when considering the 1995 vintage. The palate and nose were filled with dried flowers, pomegranite and truffle (as good Barolo should be). It might never be confused it with G. Conterno, but Seghisio offers an approachable and affoardable Barolo for the Piedmont enthusiast.
2003 G. Rinaldi Cannubi S. Lorenzo Ravera Barolo: When Amy and I honeymooned in Alba, everyone was pouring the 2003 Barolo (bad timing) but the 2003 Lorenzo that Marta Rinaldi poured to us was the best of the best. I will admit that I sometimes get caught up in premier wines, but this supposedly lesser Barolo from Rinaldi was more correct than the top Brunate La Coste. Even beyond Rinaldi, this was the best 2003 Barolo we tasted on our trip from any producer. One year in the cellar didnt change much, as this was young Barolo that was still very drinkable and promising without being punishing.
1996 Chave Hermitage: Meaty and unrefined with that cache that only Chave has (had?). It might not age forever, but it has years of Hells Yeah! ahead of it.
2001 Quinta do Noval LBV: Im told that the unfiltered designation on the label ties in to the fact that this LBV Port will improve with age while most LBV will not. I cant speak with authority on the aging potential, but I did find the tannin structurally lacking when compared to a Noval vintage port. Still, I have high (maybe too high) expectations when I see Noval on a label, and nothing but Port would have been remotely appropriate when served next to the quadruple fudge chocolate cake that the night ended with, so I will not grouse too much.
In closing, Arizona is very lucky to have Bill and Lill as residents, and we in Massachusetts are lucky to have such fantastic hosts as Mike and Carla Lawton. Im thankful that we were able to combine the two once more for a great meal.
Best,
Joe
Mike, Carla and Danielle Lawton
Trung and Martha Nguyen
Bill and Lill Buitenhuys
Me and Amy
PMAC
(Dogs: Ollie and Maggie Lawton plus Sprocket Perry)
We kicked the night off with a producer I dislike which is becoming more and more of a tradition (interpret for yourself the implications):
2005 Paolo Bea Coenobium: I will admit that I am jaded when it comes to the wines of Bea, but even taking that into consideration the nose on this wine was unpleasantly metallic. Thankfully, the palate was more interesting, but it was also very shrill. Complexity aside, this wine needs more fat or fruit or padding to help ease the finish. Based on the retail price, its not unreasonable, but the Nun habit needs to be hiked up.
1997 Trimbach CFE: If there is one constant about me and Trimbach, it is that I will adore smelling the wines. The palate wasnt as easy to judge - with the youthful and mature nuances beginning to trade places - but the potency and tannin promise the transition will not fall short in the end. This might fail to rival the Genie in the bottle of the 89 CFE, but I think it has much improvement to come.
2001 Knoll Riesling Reid Schutt Riesling: There is something very Eric Rohmer about the wines of Knoll. For example, while not having a lot of experience with Knolls wines, I have always found them very large and viscous. Of course, the great thing about being an Austrian wine is that you can be large and viscous and yet still be driven by mineral notes. Its the Jameks the Nigls and the Nikolaihofs the top wines are not lean and yet the result is still somehow restrained and respectable. Going one step further than the rest, Knoll has the sole ability to suffer stigmata and drive all the snakes out of Ireland just based on the label. If you dig it, like I do, this will be a competitor for wine of the night every time.
2000 Prager Achleiten Riesling: In a sharp contrast to the Knoll, this wine was far more Grunerish than Riesling. In fact, it was so much different from the Knoll that is caused speculation on the integrity of the wine. Like a Gruner, there was the presence of white pepper and (what I identify as) calcium. Beyond that, there was none of the *oomph* of the Knoll.
1988 Kalin Chardonnay DD: For some reason, Mike Lawton refused to drink this wine, but I think every one else was stoked after drinking it. Geographic location aside, the wines of Kalin feature an amazing aging trajectory. Ive tasted older, and many younger, Kalin Chards, but this was just about perfect for me. The expression was all nuts and spice, with a hint of cream and enough acidity to seal the deal. As with ESJ, it is nice to have an American wine to be proud of.
1999 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Spatlese: Classic Donnhoff nose with a palate that was apple scone and how are you dearie? comfort on the finish.
1993 Gouges NSG Les St. Georges: I really, really, really want to like Gouges. I even have a bottle of Gouges in the atrophied Burgundy section of my cellar, and yet Gouges makes it hard for me. In the glass this wine smelled like a promising Burg, but in the mouth this was painfully underfruited with an acid and tannin beating.
1995 Einaudi Costa Grimaldi Barolo: The nose was pleasant with notes of classic Nebbiolo, tarragon, and also some semi-resolved oak. The palate was moderately dense. If the fruit can hang on, this will be a nice Barolo in a few years.
1995 Seghisio La Villa Barolo: Seghisio, as I have always found them, are solidly proforming Barolo which will sooth even the most demanding Barolo itch. Moreover, this wine is a star when considering the 1995 vintage. The palate and nose were filled with dried flowers, pomegranite and truffle (as good Barolo should be). It might never be confused it with G. Conterno, but Seghisio offers an approachable and affoardable Barolo for the Piedmont enthusiast.
2003 G. Rinaldi Cannubi S. Lorenzo Ravera Barolo: When Amy and I honeymooned in Alba, everyone was pouring the 2003 Barolo (bad timing) but the 2003 Lorenzo that Marta Rinaldi poured to us was the best of the best. I will admit that I sometimes get caught up in premier wines, but this supposedly lesser Barolo from Rinaldi was more correct than the top Brunate La Coste. Even beyond Rinaldi, this was the best 2003 Barolo we tasted on our trip from any producer. One year in the cellar didnt change much, as this was young Barolo that was still very drinkable and promising without being punishing.
1996 Chave Hermitage: Meaty and unrefined with that cache that only Chave has (had?). It might not age forever, but it has years of Hells Yeah! ahead of it.
2001 Quinta do Noval LBV: Im told that the unfiltered designation on the label ties in to the fact that this LBV Port will improve with age while most LBV will not. I cant speak with authority on the aging potential, but I did find the tannin structurally lacking when compared to a Noval vintage port. Still, I have high (maybe too high) expectations when I see Noval on a label, and nothing but Port would have been remotely appropriate when served next to the quadruple fudge chocolate cake that the night ended with, so I will not grouse too much.
In closing, Arizona is very lucky to have Bill and Lill as residents, and we in Massachusetts are lucky to have such fantastic hosts as Mike and Carla Lawton. Im thankful that we were able to combine the two once more for a great meal.
Best,
Joe