Chteau Margaux 2000 "Pavillon Rouge du Chteau Margaux" (Margaux) Lush, sultry, slutty, whorehouse Bordeaux. I dont mean that as a bad thing, necessarily, but the lurid aromatics and the very particular texturewell, I can see why certain critics tend towards describing wines such as this in pornographic terms, because the lingo fits. Theres plenty of structure, but its oh-so-plushy and New World, and the dark fruit is expansive and soft. That said, theres tobacco and pepper dust (more on the fruit than the spice side of pepper), and it is recognizable as Bordeaux. But modern Bordeaux, for sure. I find it impossible to not like, despite any stylistic reservations. Surprisingly drinkable now, but theres far from any hurry to get to it; I suspect theres a lot more development to come. (5/10)