Pernand-Vergelesses drops off a cliff

S

Sharon Bowman

Sharon Bowman
Last night I met up with David Bueker at a winy kind of restaurant in Paris's 5th arrondissement. As we were being well-behaved wine drinkers, we ordered a bottle between us (until people around us started plying us with tastes of things, but then, one only lives once).

We almost steered into a Bandol, but at the last minute, a Burgundy won out.

I'd heard good things about the producer, but the

2002 Nicolas Rossignol Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru "Les Fichots" was a quick skid of smashed cherries that dropped off a cliff a couple of nanoseconds later, leaving just a waft of cherry scent hovering around the edge.

With time, there was some fattening of the body and a less abrupt exit, but the wine remained short.

Disappointing for a 2002 and for a 1er cru.

Any other thoughts about this producer?
 
I'd heard good things about the producer...Any other thoughts about this producer?
Click to expand...

Yes, where did you hear these good things?

I've only had the 04 Volnay Chevret and Cailleret, both of which seemed too marked by oak for my tastes. But that is obviously limited exposure.
 
2001 Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils, Pernand-Vergelesses Les Fichots is very good tonight. It is at once cherry bright and wet earth with a lovely perfume that lingers forever. Also open was 2000 Desvignes, Morgon Javernieres Beaujolais which is bottle sweet (hey, do dry wines go sweet with age? Chris?) with spicy tannin and plum fruit. Anyway, Pernand-Vergelesses Les Fichots is okay in my book. Sorry your bottle wasn't up to snuff.

Best,
Kay

p.s. The best thing, though, was a bottle of 2004 Puffeney, Arbois Poulsard. Darker than the beloved orange colored 2002, the '04 is the epitome of balance, texture and pleasure.
 
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
On the other hand . . .2001 Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils, Pernand-Vergelesses Les Fichots is very good tonight. It is at once cherry bright and wet earth with a lovely perfume that lingers forever. Also open was 2000 Desvignes, Morgon Javernieres Beaujolais which is bottle sweet (hey, do dry wines go sweet with age? Chris?) with spicy tannin and plum fruit. Anyway, Pernand-Vergelesses Les Fichots is okay in my book. Sorry your bottle wasn't up to snuff.

Best,
Kay

p.s. The best thing, though, was a bottle of 2004 Puffeney, Arbois Poulsard. Darker than the beloved orange colored 2002, the '04 is the epitome of balance, texture and pleasure.
Click to expand...
Look at you guys, with your orgy of delicious booze.

Wasn't the Desvignes bottle sweet to start?
 
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
The best thing, though, was a bottle of 2004 Puffeney, Arbois Poulsard. Darker than the beloved orange colored 2002, the '04 is the epitome of balance, texture and pleasure.
Click to expand...
Glad to hear this, as I have it on tap tomorrow night for a large-ish structured Jura tasting. (Any SF bay disorderlies are welcome to msg me for details.)
 
well, yes, it seems that dry red wines can sweeten with age. i forget if it was matt kramer or jamie goode (or someone else) where i read it, but it seems that there are compounds in the polyphenols of red wine that do evolve into some esoteric compound of the sugar family. they become '-oses' of some sort.

but i think that the timeline for this to happen is in the two to three decade range.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Yes, where did you hear these good things?
Click to expand...

Probably the RVF.

originally posted by Kay Bixler:
On the other hand . . .2001 Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils, Pernand-Vergelesses Les Fichots is very good tonight. It is at once cherry bright and wet earth with a lovely perfume that lingers forever.
Click to expand...

Glad to hear it. We can't all get bum Pernand-V.

originally posted by Kay Bixler:
Anyway, Pernand-Vergelesses Les Fichots is okay in my book. Sorry your bottle wasn't up to snuff.
Click to expand...

More a comment on the producer than the clos.
 
originally posted by slaton:
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
The best thing, though, was a bottle of 2004 Puffeney, Arbois Poulsard. Darker than the beloved orange colored 2002, the '04 is the epitome of balance, texture and pleasure.
Click to expand...
Glad to hear this, as I have it on tap tomorrow night for a large-ish structured Jura tasting. (Any SF bay disorderlies are welcome to msg me for details.)
Click to expand...

The wine may get lost in a big tasting. It's not showy at all.

Best,
Kay
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Wasn't the Desvignes bottle sweet to start?
Click to expand...

I don't remember. Certainly not RS sweet. At this point though it is tasting rich and full fruited. In fact all the 2000 Beaujolais I've had recently have been in a good place.

Best,
Kay
 
originally posted by robert ames:
well, yes, it seems that dry red wines can sweeten with age. i forget if it was matt kramer or jamie goode (or someone else) where i read it, but it seems that there are compounds in the polyphenols of red wine that do evolve into some esoteric compound of the sugar family. they become '-oses' of some sort.

but i think that the timeline for this to happen is in the two to three decade range.
Click to expand...

Likely what's going on is that some of those polyphenols exist initially as their glycosides (there's a sugar attached to the oxygens of the phenols) which will eventually hydrolyze, affording a sugar. I wouldn't expect that it would take decades for that to happen, but what do I, a mere chemist, know?

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
originally posted by SFJoe:
Wasn't the Desvignes bottle sweet to start?
Click to expand...

I don't remember. Certainly not RS sweet. At this point though it is tasting rich and full fruited. In fact all the 2000 Beaujolais I've had recently have been in a good place.

Best,
Kay
Click to expand...

I think they are a bit on the other side, but there is a nice leafy sweetness. Like tobacco, but without the tangy flavor.
 
Sharon,
My 2002 are quite closed at the moment and don't show the initial charm. Maybe this can explain part of your and David's disappointment?
J
 
originally posted by VLM:
I think they are a bit on the other side, but there is a nice leafy sweetness. Like tobacco, but without the tangy flavor.
Click to expand...

To me there is no other side.

Or to put it another way: My friends, we are Americans and as Americans, my friend, we can win this, I have faith, through dedication to our core values as Americans that we can come together, in crisis and prevail. Americans.

Best,
Kay
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top