Hilberg-Pasquero 2005 Vareij (Piedmont) Smooth blue fruit, candied and dull as hell. Everything interesting has been buffed and polished and ground from this wine, leaving a core of emptiness. The tedium is immeasurable. This is brachetto?!? (with some barbera, but still) (10/08)
Unibroue Quartre-Centime (Qubec) Are these beers getting more boring by the year, or am I suffering from malty overstimulation? Should I blame corporate brewing? Is this an actual tasting note? No, probably not. (10/08)
Fullers 2007 Vintage Ale (England) Strident and uncompromising; the upshot is that Im not at all sure I like it, but it sure is very much what it wants to be: bitter, raw-grain zing in drinkable form. Im tempted to say this is brilliant, except that its hard for me to be so positive about a beer I really, really struggle to take in more than single-sip quantities. Still, I have to believe that this is a personal issue, and those who like this sort of thing will find it an ale for the ages. (10/08)
Kumeu River 2005 Chardonnay (Kumeu) The elephant in the room: theres some obvious reduction at first opening (this wine is screwcapped by one of New Zealands most ardent advocates of widespread screwingwait, that came out wrong). It completely disappears after about 15 minutes, though its replaced by a sulfurous, matchstick edginess. And then, theres brilliant, sunrise-through-a-window acidity, brittle grapefruit, and a lot of primal, grapey rawness. This is structured and strikingly long, and though it lacks complexity now, I suspect time will bring some. Kumeu River remains one of New Zealands best producers of this often-insipid grape. (10/08)
Unibroue Quartre-Centime (Qubec) Are these beers getting more boring by the year, or am I suffering from malty overstimulation? Should I blame corporate brewing? Is this an actual tasting note? No, probably not. (10/08)
Fullers 2007 Vintage Ale (England) Strident and uncompromising; the upshot is that Im not at all sure I like it, but it sure is very much what it wants to be: bitter, raw-grain zing in drinkable form. Im tempted to say this is brilliant, except that its hard for me to be so positive about a beer I really, really struggle to take in more than single-sip quantities. Still, I have to believe that this is a personal issue, and those who like this sort of thing will find it an ale for the ages. (10/08)
Kumeu River 2005 Chardonnay (Kumeu) The elephant in the room: theres some obvious reduction at first opening (this wine is screwcapped by one of New Zealands most ardent advocates of widespread screwingwait, that came out wrong). It completely disappears after about 15 minutes, though its replaced by a sulfurous, matchstick edginess. And then, theres brilliant, sunrise-through-a-window acidity, brittle grapefruit, and a lot of primal, grapey rawness. This is structured and strikingly long, and though it lacks complexity now, I suspect time will bring some. Kumeu River remains one of New Zealands best producers of this often-insipid grape. (10/08)