Shakedown

SFJoe

Joe Dougherty
I have friends who write wine blogs. "Some of my best friends...," as the saying goes. Some of them occasionally share with me the mad schemes of social media marketers who try to rent their credibility for a day to sell some product or another, many of them hilariously unrelated to wine (Broadway shows, anyone?). I can remember several occasions, some quite recent, where strictly orthodox journalists of my acquaintance turned down free trips, free bottles, and etc. from interested parties. I have sometimes derived unfair amusement from their dilemmas, but I have never seen the best of them cave.

Anyhow, sometimes the marketing and the solicitation are on the other foot, as those who follow these social media and these conflicts of interest or intent or disclosure might know. The quid pro quo/logrolling/etc. opportunities are quite large. It is sometimes the custom in the wine biz to send free samples to those who might spare kind words for them. I know people who've been sent such, I've even tried some of them. Usually, not always, in the sample game, IME, you get what you pay for. Too much of an open attitude, and there won't be enough reduction sauces in your future to deal with all the goods.

Anyhow, it's always interesting to see what an ambitious and ready mind can contrive in an evolving marketplace. I know someone who works for a winery who recently received a solicitation for samples from a wine writer previously unknown to me. My informant shared the deal with me, and without asking permission I do the same. I don't see any obligation of confidentiality at any point in the chain that began as this one did.

Apologies for the long prologue, I found this to be an interesting anthropological sample:

Subject: Wine Reviews
My name is Matt Aronowitz and I am reviewer of wine. I live in Brooklyn, NY and I am meticulous with keeping a record of every wine I drink. I am one of the highest sheer volume reviewers on wine social networking site Snooth (I am not an employee of Snooth) http://www.snooth.com/my-wines/aronowm2/0/1/0/0/125/100/7/10/ and I have synched up my Twitter account to automatically post any wine I review on Snooth http://twitter.com/mattaronowitz (I have over 1,350 Twitter followers)

I would love to be added to your mailing list for sample bottles. I can GUARANTEE an online review of any bottle you send me. I realize that there are many wine bloggers out there and you must be inundated with requests, but I don't know how many bloggers can guarantee a review (along with any descriptive info you send along). If a bottle is flawed or oxidized I will email you before I write anything about it. I also generally wait at least month from receiving the bottle to account for travel or bottle shock.

I just would like for you to think about the percentage of the bloggers you send samples to that actually give you coverage...i know for a fact that many bloggers out there simply write about a few of the sample bottles they receive and either re-gift or drink the rest without any fanfare...I can guarantee a review on a website that is almost always on the first page of natural search results on Google when someone searches for a particular wine.

See these searches as just a few examples of my Snooth reviews being prominently featured in a Google search result:





Anderson Hopkins, Inc.
ATTN: Matt Aronowitz
63 Greene Street, Suite 604
New York, NY 10012

The google search stuff is an interesting wrinkle for the hapless social media marketing nitwits. I am no techie, but I suppose that snooth gets a high page rank for everything, and things posted to snooth therefore show up high on the list of a google search. I suppose that my views of the best beanbag chairs would rate similarly if I put them on snooth.

Anyhow, thought some of you might find this interesting. Maybe everyone but me is already doing this and I have no idea. If so, no need to tell me, I'll blunder along buying wine.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Anyhow, thought some of you might find this interesting. Maybe everyone but me is already doing this and I have no idea. If so, no need to tell me, I'll blunder along buying wine.

That's some funny stuff. I don't delve too deeply into the blog world, so this was news to me.

But good luck to him. Will see how far he can take it. But what's his end game? A bunch of free crappy wine. All that spam just to get drunk. Is this a strategy to fame and fortune.

Nonetheless, something (i.e. the google searches cited above) tells me that his target wineries are pretty much irrelevant to you and me anyway. Blundering along with purchases may be a better bet for Huet, Texier, et al.
 
More in keeping with your title, I know several folks who have been approached to send samples and get a review FOR A PRICE.
At least this fellow doesn't charge for a review - such as it is.
Best, Jim
 
Lest anyone think that Mr. Aronowitz is really on to something and that their time here will lead to mass quantities of samples piling up in front of their mailbox, I remind you of the FAQ:

"Will I become famous posting on Wine Disorder?

No. Wine Disorder discussions are intentionally hidden from search engines, so you will have to seek elsewhere for the fame and glory that can be yours from witty participation on wine discussion boards."
 
I've gotten that e-mail from him as well. Almost makes me proud. When I offered instead to meet him and taste with him, sadly, he told me that he had a day job and no time to taste with me.
 
Why not? If you send free wine to anyone, why not a blogger? If the person has some sort of following and wine-community presence, that is. It's just as valid as sending samples to printed wine rags, and people do that. People send certain retailers and restaurants samples. Samples are indeed solicited by lots of wine writers, most of whom do work no more insightful or worthwhile than what the average board poster or casual blogger does. If these people have an audience, it may be worth a marketer's while to spread the wares.

If the idea is to get noticed, you do what will help you get noticed. Here we see the alleged wine reviewer doing what he needs to do to get noticed.

Not everyone can or will go into hock to maintain the appearance of integrity while writing about wine. Especially when there is a channel of sample bottles to be tapped, though it tends to be dominated by established spew vendors.

People breaking in now face huge expenses if they want to experience a wide range of wines in the proper context and to move beyond the artifice of herd tastings. They need samples to do proper work if they're not independently wealthy. And in certain cases they can provide real exposure to wineries and distributors who want to keep their wines visible in the wine community.

Not that this case seems like a reasonable one. But I'm out of the loop for a few years. Does Matt Aronowitz have a following? I don't mean twitter.

I mean, there are lots of ridiculous people out there blowing hard about wine. Some do have money stockpiled for their ventures, and former or current attornies seem to dominate the blowhard field. But for people who discover this particular calling early on, it's a hard road to follow. It's hard to manage the writing thing by starting in the trade, for reasons I won't elaborate now. And to keep the trade at arm's length is today essentially prohibitively expensive for someone tasting and writing as a full-time occupation. And landing an established-publication writing slot is like winning the lottery, and it has nothing to do with wine expertise or flair as a stylist.

So the internet beckons. But Google AdWords and part-time jobs won't get you the bottles of crazily expensive stuff you need to do what you need to do.

Which, I guess, can lead to grovelling.

Really, it's not a lot of fun scrounging for trade-tasting invites, let alone samples. Some of our end-user geeks have palsy relationships with members of the trade that get them access to key tastings. This might make it seem easy to get access to such herd events. But this impression would be mistaken. People are routinely barred from such tastings, trade status or not, writer or not.

When I started out, I could finance my pursuit of vinomniscience, given the state of the market and my means in those ancient times. By the time I attained enlightenment, I needed to wangle access to herd tastings on a regular basis to keep up with a rapidly changing field. It was hellish, frankly, trying to find dates and to penetrate the defenses of these events, despite my trade connections and my being a regular eyesore in the NY tasting scene through the '90s.

That is, people knew me, knew I had an audience, knew I worked in the business - in as noncommited-to-a-line a job as I could find - and in some cases it was still difficult to get to attend tastings. Forget samples. Grovelling didn't appeal to me. Eventually people sent me samples, but it was a long, hard slog, and they never amounted to much because I never got on to the gravy train.

Maybe if I had not had the insides kicked out of me and if I finished my ten-year book project I would have achieved yearly access to Jess Jackson's finest without grovelling. Who knows. I doubt that as a nondebased free lance I would have seen much gravy flow. And regarding the state of the market facing new writers, I know I could not do again now what I did in the '80s and '90s to get my wine education. Couldn't possibly get access to the high-end stuff and even midrange wines would need careful choice of what I could follow in bottle or over an entire single bottle, in the cellar or at the table, and what would have to be done herd-only or not at all.

Anyway, cut the grovelmeister a little slack. One is fortunate to have well-situated and well-stocked friends and to have means in this field. With deficits in either, debasement and mortification and conniving become prominent means to the desired ends. And no fun, so far as that goes.

We must be grateful for what we have, right?
 
originally posted by Mr. Doghead:
Why not? If you send free wine to anyone, why not a blogger? If the person has some sort of following and wine-community presence, that is. It's just as valid as sending samples to printed wine rags, and people do that. People send certain retailers and restaurants samples. Samples are indeed solicited by lots of wine writers, most of whom do work no more insightful or worthwhile than what the average board poster or casual blogger does. If these people have an audience, it may be worth a marketer's while to spread the wares.

If the idea is to get noticed, you do what will help you get noticed. Here we see the alleged wine reviewer doing what he needs to do to get noticed.

Not everyone can or will go into hock to maintain the appearance of integrity while writing about wine. Especially when there is a channel of sample bottles to be tapped, though it tends to be dominated by established spew vendors.

People breaking in now face huge expenses if they want to experience a wide range of wines in the proper context and to move beyond the artifice of herd tastings. They need samples to do proper work if they're not independently wealthy. And in certain cases they can provide real exposure to wineries and distributors who want to keep their wines visible in the wine community.

Not that this case seems like a reasonable one. But I'm out of the loop for a few years. Does Matt Aronowitz have a following? I don't mean twitter.

I mean, there are lots of ridiculous people out there blowing hard about wine. Some do have money stockpiled for their ventures, and former or current attornies seem to dominate the blowhard field. But for people who discover this particular calling early on, it's a hard road to follow. It's hard to manage the writing thing by starting in the trade, for reasons I won't elaborate now. And to keep the trade at arm's length is today essentially prohibitively expensive for someone tasting and writing as a full-time occupation. And landing an established-publication writing slot is like winning the lottery, and it has nothing to do with wine expertise or flair as a stylist.

So the internet beckons. But Google AdWords and part-time jobs won't get you the bottles of crazily expensive stuff you need to do what you need to do.

Which, I guess, can lead to grovelling.

Really, it's not a lot of fun scrounging for trade-tasting invites, let alone samples. Some of our end-user geeks have palsy relationships with members of the trade that get them access to key tastings. This might make it seem easy to get access to such herd events. But this impression would be mistaken. People are routinely barred from such tastings, trade status or not, writer or not.

When I started out, I could finance my pursuit of vinomniscience, given the state of the market and my means in those ancient times. By the time I attained enlightenment, I needed to wangle access to herd tastings on a regular basis to keep up with a rapidly changing field. It was hellish, frankly, trying to find dates and to penetrate the defenses of these events, despite my trade connections and my being a regular eyesore in the NY tasting scene through the '90s.

That is, people knew me, knew I had an audience, knew I worked in the business - in as noncommited-to-a-line a job as I could find - and in some cases it was still difficult to get to attend tastings. Forget samples. Grovelling didn't appeal to me. Eventually people sent me samples, but it was a long, hard slog, and they never amounted to much because I never got on to the gravy train.

Maybe if I had not had the insides kicked out of me and if I finished my ten-year book project I would have achieved yearly access to Jess Jackson's finest without grovelling. Who knows. I doubt that as a nondebased free lance I would have seen much gravy flow. And regarding the state of the market facing new writers, I know I could not do again now what I did in the '80s and '90s to get my wine education. Couldn't possibly get access to the high-end stuff and even midrange wines would need careful choice of what I could follow in bottle or over an entire single bottle, in the cellar or at the table, and what would have to be done herd-only or not at all.

Anyway, cut the grovelmeister a little slack. One is fortunate to have well-situated and well-stocked friends and to have means in this field. With deficits in either, debasement and mortification and conniving become prominent means to the desired ends. And no fun, so far as that goes.

We must be grateful for what we have, right?

Someone had their coffee early this morning. Well said. My contribution: Fuck wine blogs.
 
originally posted by Mr. Doghead:

Anyway, cut the grovelmeister a little slack.
I fear that the path to vinomniscience does not wind through freebies of Mendoza malbec and Chilean SB, but maybe beliefs of that nature are why I'm still stuck in this turn of the wheel.
 
It's a phenomenon outside the wine world too. Yelpers shakedown restaurants, mom bloggers demand diapers, gadget reviewers get all sorts of stuff, and I've even seen an auto blogger get free use of "testers" for months. No doubt there are plenty seeking to join the graft parade.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Lest anyone think that Mr. Aronowitz is really on to something and that their time here will lead to mass quantities of samples piling up in front of their mailbox, I remind you of the FAQ:

"Will I become famous posting on Wine Disorder?

No. Wine Disorder discussions are intentionally hidden from search engines, so you will have to seek elsewhere for the fame and glory that can be yours from witty participation on wine discussion boards."

awww shucks....So much for my 15-minutes of fame!
 
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