NWR PSA: Authentic Sichuan Food in DC

Yule Kim

Yule Kim
During the Thai dinner at Bangkok Garden, I remember having a conversation with Keith, Maureen, and Mary about the state of Chinese food within the District. With the construction of the Verizon Center pretty much ending Chinatown as an actual ethnic enclave, authentic Chinese food in the District is hard to come by (though very authentic Taiwanese food can be found in Rockville, MD and good to decent dim sum in Wheaton and Silver Spring, MD).

But, for whatever reason, authentic Sichuan cuisine is the one exception to this rule. Recently, I went to the food court in 1825 I St NW (the Dickstein Shapiro building) to the Sichuan Express, which primarily sells Americanized Chinese by the pound ($5.95 per/lb. I believe). But, they have a portable white board that has eight different noodle soups. I ordered the shredded pork with turnip noodle soup while my friend ordered the Eight Treasure Soup. What we got were two deeply savory soups with really interesting pickled vegetables on the side. While my soup was primarily seasoned with sesame oil and lightly stir-fried vegetables and pork, my friend's had an interesting chili oil to dress his soup with some spicy stir fried meats as well. Two other soups we saw that looked particularly good were the mapo dofu soup (with sichuan peppercorn, I believe) and a beef stew soup that my friend said looked identical to a hugely popular soup from Vietnam (he was born in Vietnam).

The one issue I had with the soups were that they were very salty. I wouldn't suggest finishing the broth. But, when eating the noodles and the mixed vegetables and meat, the saltiness works.

The steamed pork buns we had were nice. They primarily had savory soup dumpling fillings rather than the more familiar char siu BBQ pork filling. Worth a try.

Basically, Sichuan Express is the only stand in the food court with a line snaking around it. The people in the line are 90% Chinese. But, when you order the soup, you are allowed to skip the line and order directly to the cashier. I urge you to do that if you choose to eat here. Personally, I do not understand why the Chinese people order the buffet food because it looks like an Americanized horror show of confected General Tso's chicken, but people do. Please, don't follow suit.

Two other places I like are Sichuan Pavilion on K St. and Great Wall Szechuan House on 14th.

More Chinese people go to the Sichuan Pavilion and they always order the dan dan mian (spicy noodles), the steamed pork belly with preserved vegetables, and the chicken with hot dry pepper. The mapo dofu also looks legit, festooned with sichuan pepper corn. I have had less success with other dishes, so you have to order carefully from this menu.

Great Wall Szechuan is more Chinese food for hipsters, and many of my Chinese friends are lukewarm about it, but I found their mapo dofu to be extremely fiery AND numbing (the ma la sensation one can only get from sichuan peppercorn). Basically, ordering from the "ma la" section of their menu is a safe bet.

I suggest people give these places a try (though the best Sichuan is apparently Sichuan Pavilion in Rockville, MD and/or Hong Kong Palace in NoVA...and yes, it is weird for a Sichuan restaurant to name itself after Hong Kong, but the actual Chinese name for the restaurant is supposed to be different).
 
Thanks. My son is just finishing up at GW University and my stepfather still lives in DC. We have lamented the state of inner DC Chinese food, so we'll have to check these out.
 
not sure if it is the same restaurant but there used to be a Great Wall szechuan restaurant on 19th between M and L (I think) - about 30 years ago! - that had killer szechuan string beans. I still crave those - have you tried the beans at the place on 14th?
 
Hi Maureen,

I haven't tried the szechuan string beans. I remember going there for a bigger dinner with friends where we ordered multiple items, but, I can only remember the mapo dofu and the twice cooked pork (both very good). I should go back and try the other items on the menu.

I would also add that Great Wall Szechuan House is basically a carryout. They have more seating now, but it has been only two or three years since they renovated their restaurant by removing the bulletproof plexiglass from their counterspace. It is very much a hole in the wall (much more so than Sichuan Pavilion).
 
originally posted by Yule Kim:
Two other places I like are Sichuan Pavilion on K St. and Great Wall Szechuan House on 14th.

Is this the same Sichuan Pavilion on K that opened in the late 70's? If so, i had my first plate of jelly fish there. Was a pretty damn good restaurant at the time; including the dan dan mien. I used to go with a Korean friend from high school. Ah, those were the days.
 
originally posted by kirk wallace:
originally posted by Yule Kim:
Two other places I like are Sichuan Pavilion on K St. and Great Wall Szechuan House on 14th.

Is this the same Sichuan Pavilion on K that opened in the late 70's? If so, i had my first plate of jelly fish there. Was a pretty damn good restaurant at the time; including the dan dan mien. I used to go with a Korean friend from high school. Ah, those were the days.

I think it is the same restaurant. The interior looks like it dates back to the 70s.

The food is still solid, if you know how to order (and that is, unfortunately, a big if).
 
With the construction of the Verizon Center pretty much ending Chinatown as an actual ethnic enclave,...

What happened after that? (I always found the DC Chinatown to be more of an 'ethnic' place that people visited, so never found it to be truly authentic as a lived-in place)

..the Dickstein Shapiro building...

Seriously? (snigger)

Thanks for the DC update, Yule!

Off-topic, but food related, do you know of any good Salvadoran restaurants? Used to be a good one in Arlington, but I think it closed.
 
Thanks for the heads-up. I agree that with a few exceptions, DC is sorely lacking in quality Chinese food. I'm fortunate to live close to Oriental East, though getting dim sum on the weekend requires waiting in line forever. In my experience, the best authentic Chinese food in the area requires a schlep to Rockville. I've found Sichuan Pavilion and Joe's Noodle House to be terrific -- the mabo dofu at the latter left my entire mouth numb for hours -- and I love the Northern Chinese Dim Sum at A&J's on Rockville Pike. Too bad it requires dealing with what I otherwise feel is the grossest part of the DC area.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
With the construction of the Verizon Center pretty much ending Chinatown as an actual ethnic enclave,...

What happened after that? (I always found the DC Chinatown to be more of an 'ethnic' place that people visited, so never found it to be truly authentic as a lived-in place)

..the Dickstein Shapiro building...

Seriously? (snigger)

Thanks for the DC update, Yule!

Off-topic, but food related, do you know of any good Salvadoran restaurants? Used to be a good one in Arlington, but I think it closed.

With respect to Salvadorean restaurants, I like Don Juan Restaurant and Pupuseria San Miguel on Mount Pleasant St. NW. I have only had their pupusas, but they both have very pronounced corn flavors, which I don't get from many other pupuserias in the city. I know people who like Arcilla on Mount Pleasant as well. I also like Gloria's Pupuseria (on 16th Street?) in Columbia Heights. Again, I only had her pupusas.

I have been to El Rinconcito near Logan Circle and it was a very fun atmosphere (I was there during the U.S./El Salvador soccer game). Their pupusas are not as good, though, as those found in Mount Pleasant and my friends were underwhelmed with their orders. But, it is highly regarded and would suggest you try it for yourself.

I also stumbled on a great Dominican restaurant in Columbia Heights next to Pho 14. Los Hermanos is run by twin brothers and they are both very friendly. One brother explained all the dishes that they served two or three times to different groups of my friends. Their mangu (mashed, unripened plaintains) was a standout. I also liked the braised oxtail. My friend really enjoyed her braised goat dish. However, I found my chicken a little dry and my friend found his pork to be dry. So, I would suggest ordering the funkier cuts of meat if you go there. Also, since it is cafeteria style, the food is left in chafing dishes, so it can be a little cold when you eat it. But, I don't know of any other place that sells that style of Caribbean food in DC.
 
originally posted by Bruce K:
Thanks for the heads-up. I agree that with a few exceptions, DC is sorely lacking in quality Chinese food. I'm fortunate to live close to Oriental East, though getting dim sum on the weekend requires waiting in line forever. In my experience, the best authentic Chinese food in the area requires a schlep to Rockville. I've found Sichuan Pavilion and Joe's Noodle House to be terrific -- the mabo dofu at the latter left my entire mouth numb for hours -- and I love the Northern Chinese Dim Sum at A&J's on Rockville Pike. Too bad it requires dealing with what I otherwise feel is the grossest part of the DC area.

Thank you for the heads up for Joe's Noodle House. I have never been there. Is it Sichuan or Taiwanese?

I really like Bob's Noodle 66 and Michael's Noodle in Rockville. Really good Taiwanese food. There is apparently another restaurant which the Taiwanese "ambassador" (technically not b/c of lack of recognition from the U.S., but the de facto ambassador) recommended to my friend for Taiwanese food as well. I should email him about it.

I personally think Oriental East is the best dim sum in the DMV area. I would get there ten minutes before 11:00am; it is easier to get in. If you go to late, the food tends to be a little cold and not so fresh.

Hollywood East in Wheaton is highly regarded for dim sum, but I have heard rumors it is in decline.

And A&Js is tops. Their beef tendon is superb, the "100 year" egg dish is delicious, and I really enjoy their beef noodle soup. It really is a great small plates restaurants (though I would eschew ordering their dumplings).
 
originally posted by Yule Kim:
Thank you for the heads up for Joe's Noodle House. I have never been there. Is it Sichuan or Taiwanese?

I'm not sure. I think of it as the former because most of the dishes seem to be Sichuan and the heat levels are not compromised to western tastes, but I'm not sure I'd recognize the clues if it is really Taiwanese. It has nothing going in the ambiance department -- you order from the counter -- but I've really enjoyed every dish I've had there.

One place I've been to a few times that I believe is Taiwanese is the misleadingly named North China restaurant on Old Georgetown Road in Bethesda. Doesn't look like anything special but the food's pretty good.

One thing about Oriental East that works for me is going on weekdays (easy since I live so close and work from home) -- no carts but order off the dim sum menu. Somewhat less variety but what they have is still great.
 
Skip the one in Chinatown.

The others must have some chef turnover. I find various dishes to vary over time in each spot.
 
I had a good experience at the Grand Sichuan on St. Mark's Place, but that was over 10 years ago. I have heard it is in decline right now.
 
originally posted by Yule Kim:
I had a good experience at the Grand Sichuan on St. Mark's Place, but that was over 10 years ago. I have heard it is in decline right now.

Most recently St. Marks has been my favorite of the UWS, Chelsea and Jersey City versions.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
originally posted by Yule Kim:
I had a good experience at the Grand Sichuan on St. Mark's Place, but that was over 10 years ago. I have heard it is in decline right now.

Most recently St. Marks has been my favorite of the UWS, Chelsea and Jersey City versions.

The seventh ave south (leroy) location has been variable. Sometimes really very good, both in store and by delivery. Delivery last Wednesday was almost inedible.
 
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