Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
A local widow was recently selling her late husband's wine collection, and among the huddled masses of South Americans and overpriced Bordeaux lay these two gems, from the Rolls-Royce of Vouvray and the Bentley of Chabils, reasonably priced. Honorable gent that I am, couldn't risk leaving them out to pasture, even at the significant risk of ox and premox:
1992 Huet Le Mont Sec 12.0%
Dig that alcohol level. The vintage wasn't the greatest, but it's Huet. Cork extremely tight, a good sign. Had to use a wooden banger to push it in slightly before pulling it out. Color was gorgeous, honey gold with bronze highlights. Delicate nose of honey, almonds, acacia, and orangina, with light oxidation. Lovely mouth feel, fine acidity, pleasing bitterness at the end of the long finish. The oxidation, while not impeditive, didn't seem of a piece, so probably indicative of insufficient structure to last this long, but the good genes outdid themselves.
1999 René & Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 13.0%
Bless teh lawd, no premox! Lots of poop upon opening, subsides to reveal waxy lanolin, oak, white flowers, honey, almonds and, increasingly, butterscotch. Mouth shows lots of oak. Decent acidity, good weight, long finish. Tastes primary, even. As the evening progressed, I became increasingly irked by the surfeit of oak. Irk veered towards road rage. How can these twits smother such awesome matière with so much wood? If the chips haven't integrated in twelve years, will they ever? Morons. Retards.
I haven't tasted DRC or La Tache in the last few years, and don’t expect to buy any, ever, so will depend on the kindness of friends and strangers. Now I shudder to think that, when the time comes, I will look the gift horse in the mouth and find it oaky, and call de Villaine an idiot. But, then, let's face it, DRC isn't really Burgundy. It's a regional misappellation unto itself. REAL Burgundy is always light to medium weight, and shows subtle oak.
1992 Huet Le Mont Sec 12.0%
Dig that alcohol level. The vintage wasn't the greatest, but it's Huet. Cork extremely tight, a good sign. Had to use a wooden banger to push it in slightly before pulling it out. Color was gorgeous, honey gold with bronze highlights. Delicate nose of honey, almonds, acacia, and orangina, with light oxidation. Lovely mouth feel, fine acidity, pleasing bitterness at the end of the long finish. The oxidation, while not impeditive, didn't seem of a piece, so probably indicative of insufficient structure to last this long, but the good genes outdid themselves.
1999 René & Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 13.0%
Bless teh lawd, no premox! Lots of poop upon opening, subsides to reveal waxy lanolin, oak, white flowers, honey, almonds and, increasingly, butterscotch. Mouth shows lots of oak. Decent acidity, good weight, long finish. Tastes primary, even. As the evening progressed, I became increasingly irked by the surfeit of oak. Irk veered towards road rage. How can these twits smother such awesome matière with so much wood? If the chips haven't integrated in twelve years, will they ever? Morons. Retards.
I haven't tasted DRC or La Tache in the last few years, and don’t expect to buy any, ever, so will depend on the kindness of friends and strangers. Now I shudder to think that, when the time comes, I will look the gift horse in the mouth and find it oaky, and call de Villaine an idiot. But, then, let's face it, DRC isn't really Burgundy. It's a regional misappellation unto itself. REAL Burgundy is always light to medium weight, and shows subtle oak.