TN: A Visit by Manuel (May 15, 2012)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Brad, Jeff, Cliff, Victor, Jay, SFJoe, Manuel, Lisa, Chris, Asher

Back at Clos Kane for an impromptu gathering to celebrate the periodic return of the Latin Liquidator to our fair shores.

There is the usual groaning board of bread, cheese, salumi, nuts, etc. But Brad has truly taken the spotlight with a smoky-tender flank steak and an outstanding lobster and corn hash.

Nigl 2001 Senftenberg-Kremstal Riesling "Privat" - acidity still good, earthy, a bit of Pixie-Stik, a touch sweet, vivid wine

Les Chais du Vieux Bourg 2008 Cotes du Jura "B.B.1." - brought to you by the relocated-Bavarian team of Bindernagel and Eigenschenck, this was their first wine and the name is a homophone honoring it ("bébé #1"); complex and honeyed, almost as yum as the previous bottle

Egon Muller 2009 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett - 23-10, tutti-frutti, intense, just twitchy-acid, and... corked

Do Ferreiro (Bod. Mendez) 2010 Albarino "Cepas Vellas" - from the Eira de Galiñanes vineyard, this is no doubt the fullest and richest albarino ever, yet for all that it is still clean and crisp and strangely delicate

F.X. Pichler 2001 Durnsteiner Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd - something like the Nigl but more vigorous and a little less nuanced

Belluard 2010 Vin de Savoie "Cepage Gringet" - yes, gringet is a grape; yes, there's only about 50 ha left in the world; yes, Belluard is biodynamic/ambient/low-sulfur/yada; the wine had good acidity but not too much flavor, just a hint of alpine flowers way in the back; the Internet suggests that the wine deserved more attention than it got from me

Foil-Wrapped Mystery Wine on the Left - OK, it's red; it's pretty; there's the very slightest suggestion of school-paste; acidity is sound; Suzanne says Bordeaux and I say Burg; absolutely no one guesses the decade on this stunner... (Dom. Gruaud-Larose 1966 St-Julien)

Foil-Wrapped Mystery Wine on the Right - another red; a whiff of rosemary; definitely Bordeaux; tannins resolved; a little red-fruitier than the other Mystery Wine; another wine showing so beautifully tonight... (Dom. Beychevelle 1955 St-Julien)

Ch. de Fieuzal 1989 Graves - brutishly young, oh, wait, let's recalibrate; transparent, high-toned, almost strawberry, alcohol shows just a bit

Dom. de la Grange des Peres 2008 Vin de Pays de l'Herault - tannic and buttery, eh

Rhys 2008 Syrah "Horseshoe Vineyard" - corked

Dom. Weinbach 2000 Riesling "Cuvee Ste Catherine" - dead (and they richly deserve it for making their cuvee names impossible to determine)

Felsina 1990 Chianti Classico Riserva "Berardenga" - dead

Farou 1989 Chinon "Clos du Parc de St-Louans" - corked

Ridge 1987 Geyserville Zinfandel "Trentadue" - still some fruit, still some coconut, unexciting though, "Should have been drunk 10 years ago"-SFJoe

Keller 2005 Dalsheimer Burgel Spatburgunder Trocken "Cuvee Felix" - 46-07, black raspberry, stemmy, best with food

Joguet 2009 Chinon "Clos de la Dioterie" - pretty but a bit lactic with a sticky texture

Ridge 2009 "Monte Bello" - for a young CA wine this is kinda quiet; Chris and I wonder whether something is amiss but we don't taste anything wrong; does this subtle showing indicate good things to come?

Foreau 1997 Vouvray Moelleux - Foreau says the 1997s are advancing faster than he'd like; this taste exactly like apricot nectar (of course, the feel is lighter)

Eminence Road 2008 Gewurtztraminer - the nose is slight but still pretty; the palate is getting kinda stinky

Bod. Riojanas 1970 Rioja GR "Vina Albina" - smooth but kinda worn, "Beef blood and earth"-Brad, "...and Coppertone!"-SFJoe

NB. If you're a FB'er, there are pix available to you.
 
I quite disliked the Joguet. Structureless, insipid. Perhaps my expectations for vintage and vineyard are too high, but when you've had the '89 of this in recent memory and are then faced with this stuff, it's depressing. I hope the new regime will change things.

The Weinbach was a depressing example of non-Burg pox to me. If you have any Y2K Clos des Briords kicking around, it would be time to drink them for the same reason.

The B.B.1 was a treat. As was the Nigl.

But the Bordeaux towered over the table.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
I quite disliked the Joguet. Structureless, insipid. Perhaps my expectations for vintage and vineyard are too high, but when you've had the '89 of this in recent memory and are then faced with this stuff, it's depressing. I hope the new regime will change things.

Another new regime, or the same new regime ? Is FX Barc still there ?

Regardless, it's not just 2009. My disagreement over these wines with a friendly neighbourhood wine writer is becoming a bit of an inside joke. And we actually visited together once, so the context was well established.

The Weinbach was a depressing example of non-Burg pox to me. If you have any Y2K Clos des Briords kicking around, it would be time to drink them for the same reason.

I did, in March. You had it. It was great.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
... a depressing example of non-Burg pox to me. If you have any Y2K Clos des Briords kicking around, it would be time to drink them for the same reason.
But the Bordeaux towered over the table.

Noooooooooooo!
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
No workie on an iPad.
Best, Jim
Foil-Wrapped Mystery Wine on the Left - (Dom. Gruaud-Larose 1966 St-Julien)

Foil-Wrapped Mystery Wine on the Right - (Dom. Beychevelle 1955 St-Julien)
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Good to know about the 55 Beychevelle, always in the market for my birth year...
Well aren't you an old fart. Come for a visit some time. As it happens, I'm rather well-stocked in that vintage, though no Beychevelle.
 
originally posted by Jeff Connell:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Good to know about the 55 Beychevelle, always in the market for my birth year...
Well aren't you an old fart. Come for a visit some time. As it happens, I'm rather well-stocked in that vintage, though no Beychevelle.

Will do! I'm almost as old as that guy in California whose name I forget...
 
I still say Wilson is the wrong choice for worst president ever.

I may still be drunk, actually; it's been quite a week.

No, wait, I can still use semicolons!
 
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