The Meat

Because I enjoyed the 2006 Copain "Hawk’s Butte" Syrah, I brought back the two Copain wines encountered during the whirlwind trip. The first from SFO Vino Volo, the second from Chambers. Both, alas, fails.

2008 Copain L’Hiver Syrah California 14.2%
Dense aroma of dark fruits with fat, bacon and iodine. A bit modern in its suggestion of supermaturity, but far from unacceptable. Mouth, alas, too sweet, way more sweet than acid. And no tannin or bitterness to assist the wallflower acidity in its bid for recognition.

2010 Copain Tous Ensemble Pinot Noir Anderson Valley 13.4%
Suggestion of pinosity in the metallic cherry, but lathered with oak. WTF? Good EQ, but acidity and sweetness like a divorced couple still living in the same apartment because rents have skyrocketed. The oak verged on nauseating for this delicate sensibility, not least for being so unexpected. Went down with food, but another disappointment.
 
Among the Copain pinot noirs my favorite by a wide margin is the Kiser En Haut. Interestingly I've enjoyed the Hawkes Butte Syrah even before he turned away from the dark side.

Never tried any of the Tous Ensemble wines.
 
Taking my teenager out to camp two hours north of SF next weekend so we'll finally get to try La Ciccia and Zuni Cafe, and pay a return visit to Aziza, so wonderful last year. At La Ciccia, naturally I'll be inclined to drink Sardinian, but since I'll be the only one drinking, I'm hoping there will be BTG pairing options at sub-Dettorian abv levels.
 
originally posted by Bill Lundstrom:
Zuni=roast chicken. ze best.
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I feel this way in general, but my last anecdote was sub-thrilling. I imagine the next table had a better one, or what have you. (they did just lose their chef, after all).

On a separate note, the crazy expensive whole raw chickens at Marlow & Daughters cook up fabulously on the rotisserie, and compete to some degree with Zuni.

It's no Ellenbogen effort off the Weber, or any such, but a pretty damn good bird.
 
originally posted by scottreiner:
August 14 I'll be in SF for 1 night, lunch at Zuni, dinner at La Ciccia. Both firsts for me.
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Sandi and I will be at the 'Stick that night watching Sir Paul play his ass off for our anniversary. We'll be in SF Thurs-Sat nights. Kin Khao, Cotogna, and Coqueta are on the agenda. Maybe, Trou Normand, too. Hmm, perhaps a trip to Wilson & Wilson is in order...
 
originally posted by Bill Lundstrom:
Was there in April this year and it was the best I've had there in several visits. ( all respect to chef R) drank well too.
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Sure, my anecdote is just that. I certainly hope they are generally living up to my past experience.
 
originally posted by Bill Lundstrom:
Zuni=roast chicken. ze best.
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I am going to chip in. I am a huge fan of chicken, which in the past was a hard sell (along with my passion for salmon*). When these birds (loosely speaking) are good, they cannot be improved upon other than with a sprinkling of salt; pepper ground, if most need be.

A chicken at Zuni a few months ago failed at the heart palpitations I had hoped for.

The thing is, many chickens both on menus and for purchase now in the US, including in the NYC region, for instance at Marlow & Daughters, Dickson's or Heritage Meats, fucking rock when roasted, making the home chicken meal as good as the former chicken of elite temples, should one know how to pair it.

*ETA: Kirk Wallace, you apostate Scot!
 
I'll add that a properly roasted chicken is all about preparation. Pre salting for 24-48 hours is essential. Brining sucks.
There are great birds around at farmers markets and online. Great chicken abounds in our area but again, preparation is essential.
Yes, im a bit obssessed witn roasted chicken...
 
originally posted by Bill Lundstrom:
Brining sucks.
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What a scam that was.

Great way to introduce more sugar into food, should that be what you want.

I hope we're all past that now.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by Bill Lundstrom:
Brining sucks.
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What a scam that was.

Great way to introduce more sugar into food, should that be what you want.

I hope we're all past that now.
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Restaurants still do it. Good ones too, alas.

Experienced this recently at a very good place nearby and was really put off. It's so evident when a bird is brined, who do they think they are fooling?
 
originally posted by Bill Lundstrom:
Pre salting for 24-48 hours is essential.
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For the unenlightened among us: where does the salt go, and how much?

(I have not learned how to pre-salt but I certainly know enough to have never brined any bird.)
 
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