Portlandia resident Mark Davis was in town last week with his wife to take in some of the finer things our fair city has to offer and a group of some of New York's roughest and toughest gathered to welcome them. I hadn't seen them since my trip to Seattle and Portland almost six years ago, so it was great to catch up. As it turned out, Howard Camhi was also in town with Elizabeth in tow and so they joined our motley group at Peking Duck House. Though many ducks were sacrificed, it was not enough to satisfy the wine Gods who unfortunately cursed our evening with a number of corked, or poorly showing bottles. Be that as it may, and the low barometric pressure be damned, we still managed to have a great deal of fun.
2005 Domaine François Cotat (Paul & François)- Sancerre Cuvée Spéciale Les Monts Damnés - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
A bit controversial. I found the wine oxidized, as did two others. However, the contingent of Sherry lovers at the table loved it. There was no citrusy fruit, no grassiness or freshness, just lots of toasted nuts. I've had too many older bottles that showed more fruit and freshness to consider this anything other than oxidized. NR (flawed)
2010 Emmanuel Houillon (Maison Pierre Overnoy)- Chardonnay Arbois Pupillin - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
A flawed bottle. Tasted exactly like Mott's apple juice. NR (flawed)
1995 Huët- Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
Hmm. Starting to sense a trend. This, too, showed oxidative on the nose and palate, but it did not overpower the wine. While dry, the wine shows richness and depth with apricot, quince, mineral and earl grey tea flavors supported by fine acid levels. Picks up some nuttiness on the finish and trying the remains of the bottle the next day, the nuttiness and oxidative character became more pronounced and the fruit had receded. B+/B.
1998 Nikolaihof- Riesling Federspiel Steinriesler - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
Stone and mineral dominated, it's impressive for its purity and focus, but needs more flesh and fruit to support the big-boned structure. Dry on the palate and showing a pleasant saline character along white flowers and citrus pith. If you like a little s & m in your Riesling, you'll enjoy this one. Solid B+.
1989 Denis- Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau Sec - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau
Not a good showing. Shows a touch of oxidation with mushrooms and a bit of sulfur. Lean and mean on the palate with the acidity run amok, though underneath there is some quince and lemon curd trying to make a go of it. I think Cliff said he decanted it a day, but it may have needed even more time. C+/C.
1995 Denis- Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau Sec - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau
A much better showing than the '89. It's a richer and more complete wine that, while bone dry, shows nice vibrancy to the quince, mineral and citrus flavors. Still, there certainly is a leanness to this wine that makes it a bit ungenerous. Solid B.
2001 Willi Schaefer- Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese Auction #7 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
In an evening of relative under performance, this wine was a shining star. Cliff mentioned it was tight from the onset, but he double decanted it at home and by the time I had it at the restaurant, it was singing and just bursting with intense minerality, stone and red fruits with sweet yellow citrus and a pixy stix candy like character. Remarkably deep and precise with still youthful and fresh acidity balancing the pretty solid sweetness levels perfectly. This is just so lip smackingly good it's a shame it didn't come in magnum form. Long life ahead for this one and easily the WOTN. A/A-.
1990 Willi Schaefer- Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Alas, this bottle showed a bit old and faded, which was rather surprising. Mineral dominates the nose and palate, with just a touch of petrol. It's shed much of its sweetness and is rather hollow in the mid-palate. Light citrus and peach flavors support the slate character. With extended air an interesting spearmint and pine character came up. Still, rather disappointing given the pedigree and vintage. B-.
2002 Emmanuel Houillon (Maison Pierre Overnoy)- Poulsard Arbois Pupillin - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
Shows some Brett and funk on the nose, but not enough to overshadow the bright red fruit and earth notes. It's really come together nicely with sprightly acidity, crunchy earth and mineral notes, tart strawberry and cranberry fruit with a bit of earth and horse sweat. Maybe a touch drying on the finish, but this is showing very well. Solid A-.
1989 Camille Loye- Trousseau Arbois Cuvée Saint Paul - France, Jura, Arbois
Corked. NR (flawed)
1991 Jean-Paul Thevenet- Morgon Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
I was really looking forward to trying this as I had tried an '89 a few years ago in San Francisco and it showed fairly well and I recall Dressner frequently waxing poetic about '91 Beaujolais. There was a good deal of promise at first as it showed wonderful, complex aromatics of spice, cherry fruit and earth, but melded and softened in a way that only time can do. Alas, on the palate there really wasn't any life left. Just a faded wine. C-/D+
1993 Joseph Drouhin- Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Shows a nice perfume of cherries, strawberries and earth, but suffers a bit on the palate from being a bit too lean and needing a little more flesh on its bones to balance out those '93 acids. There's some decent red fruit, but there's also a distracting, slightly harsh note seemingly of unripe stems. Pleasant enough, but I was hoping for more. B.
1995 Joël Taluau- Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil Vieilles Vignes - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil
I was looking forward to trying this as it was the first Loire Cab Franc I had ever had, having tried it on release back in the day. The aromatics were promising, as they showed ripe black fruit, black earth, a bit of herb, black pepper and licorice. Unfortunately the palate didn't follow through as it showed much more herb and bell pepper and less fruit than the nose suggested and there was a bit too much of an oak presence that added an unpleasant drying and bitter character. There was also a pretty big hole in the mid-palate. B-.
2005 Catherine et Pierre Breton- Bourgueil Franc de Pied - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil
Exhibits black fruit, herb, tobacco and earth tones with a dash of spice on the nose and palate. There's a bit of '05 ripeness in the sweetness to the black fruit, which is most welcome, but the wine retains freshness and focus. Solid structure that could still use some more time to mellow. Good stuff. A-/B+.
1985 Noël Verset- Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Damn. Another wine that should've been better than it was. This is getting to be a tired refrain this evening. It shows nicely on the nose with game, iodine, meat, subdued raspberry and smoky aromas, though there's a big let down on the palate as there's a bit too much VA showing, especially on the finish and there's a distracting metallic note. While there's pretty olive, tart raspberry and garrigue flavors, the wine lacks the intensity and life it normally has. Knowing how this wine can show makes this all the more disappointing. B.
1998 Bernard Burgaud- Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Nicely fragrant with aromas of violets, ripe black briary fruit and baker's spices. Juicy and brawny on the palate, though it also shows purity and delicacy under the brawn. It shows a similar flavor profile as it does aromatically with bright acids. Picks up a bitter chocolate note on the finish and if there's a knock here, I wish the fruit was a little more forward. Solid B+.
1998 Thierry Allemand- Cornas Reynard - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
No obvious signs of tca, but it was a shell of a wine. There just wasn't anything there and that's a real shame as this is beautiful when it's on. NR (flawed)
1970 Bodegas Riojanas- Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Unfortunately, the worst showing of seven bottles tried from a ten bottle shipment, aside from a corker. This bottle showed none of the sweetness or depth the cherry fruit normally shows, but exhibited more of a generic aged red fruit character that was superficial. Leather, earth, worn wood and citrus were much more in the forefront and overall the wine was more drying and fragile than other bottles and lacked length. B-.
1997 Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein- Uhlen Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Corked. NR (flawed)
1997 René Renou- Bonnezeaux Cuvée Zenith - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Bonnezeaux
Heat damaged. NR (flawed)
2005 Domaine François Cotat (Paul & François)- Sancerre Cuvée Spéciale Les Monts Damnés - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
A bit controversial. I found the wine oxidized, as did two others. However, the contingent of Sherry lovers at the table loved it. There was no citrusy fruit, no grassiness or freshness, just lots of toasted nuts. I've had too many older bottles that showed more fruit and freshness to consider this anything other than oxidized. NR (flawed)
2010 Emmanuel Houillon (Maison Pierre Overnoy)- Chardonnay Arbois Pupillin - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
A flawed bottle. Tasted exactly like Mott's apple juice. NR (flawed)
1995 Huët- Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
Hmm. Starting to sense a trend. This, too, showed oxidative on the nose and palate, but it did not overpower the wine. While dry, the wine shows richness and depth with apricot, quince, mineral and earl grey tea flavors supported by fine acid levels. Picks up some nuttiness on the finish and trying the remains of the bottle the next day, the nuttiness and oxidative character became more pronounced and the fruit had receded. B+/B.
1998 Nikolaihof- Riesling Federspiel Steinriesler - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
Stone and mineral dominated, it's impressive for its purity and focus, but needs more flesh and fruit to support the big-boned structure. Dry on the palate and showing a pleasant saline character along white flowers and citrus pith. If you like a little s & m in your Riesling, you'll enjoy this one. Solid B+.
1989 Denis- Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau Sec - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau
Not a good showing. Shows a touch of oxidation with mushrooms and a bit of sulfur. Lean and mean on the palate with the acidity run amok, though underneath there is some quince and lemon curd trying to make a go of it. I think Cliff said he decanted it a day, but it may have needed even more time. C+/C.
1995 Denis- Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau Sec - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau
A much better showing than the '89. It's a richer and more complete wine that, while bone dry, shows nice vibrancy to the quince, mineral and citrus flavors. Still, there certainly is a leanness to this wine that makes it a bit ungenerous. Solid B.
2001 Willi Schaefer- Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese Auction #7 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
In an evening of relative under performance, this wine was a shining star. Cliff mentioned it was tight from the onset, but he double decanted it at home and by the time I had it at the restaurant, it was singing and just bursting with intense minerality, stone and red fruits with sweet yellow citrus and a pixy stix candy like character. Remarkably deep and precise with still youthful and fresh acidity balancing the pretty solid sweetness levels perfectly. This is just so lip smackingly good it's a shame it didn't come in magnum form. Long life ahead for this one and easily the WOTN. A/A-.
1990 Willi Schaefer- Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Alas, this bottle showed a bit old and faded, which was rather surprising. Mineral dominates the nose and palate, with just a touch of petrol. It's shed much of its sweetness and is rather hollow in the mid-palate. Light citrus and peach flavors support the slate character. With extended air an interesting spearmint and pine character came up. Still, rather disappointing given the pedigree and vintage. B-.
2002 Emmanuel Houillon (Maison Pierre Overnoy)- Poulsard Arbois Pupillin - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
Shows some Brett and funk on the nose, but not enough to overshadow the bright red fruit and earth notes. It's really come together nicely with sprightly acidity, crunchy earth and mineral notes, tart strawberry and cranberry fruit with a bit of earth and horse sweat. Maybe a touch drying on the finish, but this is showing very well. Solid A-.
1989 Camille Loye- Trousseau Arbois Cuvée Saint Paul - France, Jura, Arbois
Corked. NR (flawed)
1991 Jean-Paul Thevenet- Morgon Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
I was really looking forward to trying this as I had tried an '89 a few years ago in San Francisco and it showed fairly well and I recall Dressner frequently waxing poetic about '91 Beaujolais. There was a good deal of promise at first as it showed wonderful, complex aromatics of spice, cherry fruit and earth, but melded and softened in a way that only time can do. Alas, on the palate there really wasn't any life left. Just a faded wine. C-/D+
1993 Joseph Drouhin- Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Shows a nice perfume of cherries, strawberries and earth, but suffers a bit on the palate from being a bit too lean and needing a little more flesh on its bones to balance out those '93 acids. There's some decent red fruit, but there's also a distracting, slightly harsh note seemingly of unripe stems. Pleasant enough, but I was hoping for more. B.
1995 Joël Taluau- Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil Vieilles Vignes - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil
I was looking forward to trying this as it was the first Loire Cab Franc I had ever had, having tried it on release back in the day. The aromatics were promising, as they showed ripe black fruit, black earth, a bit of herb, black pepper and licorice. Unfortunately the palate didn't follow through as it showed much more herb and bell pepper and less fruit than the nose suggested and there was a bit too much of an oak presence that added an unpleasant drying and bitter character. There was also a pretty big hole in the mid-palate. B-.
2005 Catherine et Pierre Breton- Bourgueil Franc de Pied - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil
Exhibits black fruit, herb, tobacco and earth tones with a dash of spice on the nose and palate. There's a bit of '05 ripeness in the sweetness to the black fruit, which is most welcome, but the wine retains freshness and focus. Solid structure that could still use some more time to mellow. Good stuff. A-/B+.
1985 Noël Verset- Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Damn. Another wine that should've been better than it was. This is getting to be a tired refrain this evening. It shows nicely on the nose with game, iodine, meat, subdued raspberry and smoky aromas, though there's a big let down on the palate as there's a bit too much VA showing, especially on the finish and there's a distracting metallic note. While there's pretty olive, tart raspberry and garrigue flavors, the wine lacks the intensity and life it normally has. Knowing how this wine can show makes this all the more disappointing. B.
1998 Bernard Burgaud- Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Nicely fragrant with aromas of violets, ripe black briary fruit and baker's spices. Juicy and brawny on the palate, though it also shows purity and delicacy under the brawn. It shows a similar flavor profile as it does aromatically with bright acids. Picks up a bitter chocolate note on the finish and if there's a knock here, I wish the fruit was a little more forward. Solid B+.
1998 Thierry Allemand- Cornas Reynard - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
No obvious signs of tca, but it was a shell of a wine. There just wasn't anything there and that's a real shame as this is beautiful when it's on. NR (flawed)
1970 Bodegas Riojanas- Rioja Monte Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Unfortunately, the worst showing of seven bottles tried from a ten bottle shipment, aside from a corker. This bottle showed none of the sweetness or depth the cherry fruit normally shows, but exhibited more of a generic aged red fruit character that was superficial. Leather, earth, worn wood and citrus were much more in the forefront and overall the wine was more drying and fragile than other bottles and lacked length. B-.
1997 Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein- Uhlen Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Corked. NR (flawed)
1997 René Renou- Bonnezeaux Cuvée Zenith - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Bonnezeaux
Heat damaged. NR (flawed)
