Vatan/ Clos Rougeard

wrrntl

Warren Leonard
VATAN AND CLOS ROUGEARD DINNER - Ripple DC (3/25/2014)

Six of us descended on Ripple in Washington DC on a snowy Spring evening to partake in a dinner featuring two of the very best Loire Valley producers; Clos Rougeard and Vatan

2011 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

The 2011 is a youthful wine that is drinking very well for a young Vatan. The nose is more herbal than grassy with the typical flinty notes. Hints of fennel and even spring onion emerge on the palate. The finish is mineral and while not as long as the 2008 very pleasurable. The 2011 can easily develop in the bottle but I would consider more of a midterm ager than say the rich 2005 and the stony 2008.
2008 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

This wine was the most restrained upon opening. However, with time in the glass this became the group's favorite of the Vatan blanc flight. Again the palate showed great rich texture before diving into the very mineral laden finish. The 2008 has excellent balance of fruit, minerality and acidity. This wine will last a very long time and will be very interesting to follow its integration. If one opened this in the near term I would suggest decanting.
2005 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

The 2005 offered up a rich and pungent nose of grass, herbs and some flinty smoke flavors. The palate was rich and expansive with hints of more exotic fruit. This wine could clearly age for much longer but was an absolute pleasure to taste now. It is nice to see how Vatan perform from riper vintages showing plenty of acidity to allow the fruit to integrate over an extended cellaring period

2005 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Brézé - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur

This wine took hours to show anything but when it started to emerge at the end of the evening it developed quite nicely. Rich fruit on the nose with no noticeable oak. The palate was rich and long with nice minerality emerging. This clearly needs time to develop before a more hearty examination is possible.
2003 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Rouge Clos la Néore - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre Rouge

Incredible nose of bright cherries and earthy soil notes. The vintage clearly shows but in a wonderfully fruity way that is very balanced by the mineral undertones. I have only had 2 Vatan rouges and each time the terroir is highly transparent even in a ripe vintage such as 2003. This was a real treat to taste

2006 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny

This was showing the most youthful and rightfully so. The wine clearly needs aging but the components are all there for this to be a great bottle of wine. The character is brambly with dark fruits with some hints of cherry as well. The nose was by far the most intriguing element at present but clearly the palate and finish will evolve to match as the intensity is there but still youthful
2004 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny

Excellent balance of fresh fruit and the emergence of secondary notes. Still outside of its drinking window but by the end of the evening this wine, for me, competing with the 2001 for WOTN. The tannins have really begun to fold into the excellent finish. I was very pleased with this wine and it was a pleasure to go back and forth between this and the 2001.
2003 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny

Clearly the ripest of the quartet showing even some hints of balsamic on the nose but in a pleasurable non-flawed way. Notes of richer, redder berries on the palate with more cocoa notes. The finish had pleasurable cedar and herbal underpinnings. Obviously Clos Rougeard but the vintage is still standing out at this point.
2001 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny

On opening this still show some nice primary fruit on the nose but later in the evening notes of brine, cocoa and by the end of the evening even tertiary notes of white flower came through. The palate was very much excellent Cabernet Franc with darker berries mingling with a roasted vegetable note. The finish was stunning with very nice tilled soil note. Many rated this as their WOTN

The food and service were up to Ripple's exacting standards. All of the wines showed very well with only one exception. A 2002 Vatan was not reviewed as the group decided that provenance may have been an issue. 3 bottles were purchased on clearance from a local wine store less than a year prior and of those 3 bottles only one has shown well. The wine tasted tired with oxidized notes. A 2001 Vatan of perfect provenance I tasted less than 2 months ago confirmed in, my mind at least, that this is a storage issue and not premox.

Posted from CellarTracker
 
originally posted by wrrntl:
VLW would be happyThat I didn't find any brett this time around ;)

VLW?

I had a 2011 Vatan a couple weeks back and have a 2005 in the queue.

I think that Rougeard was very successful in 2003, but I'm not sure that I have any Clos, but Poyeux and Bourg have both been excellent.

I've always loved the 2004 Clos, and I'm glad you did too. A very fine version of this wine, very fresh and lithe with those herbal notes wrapped around the fruit.

Too bad about the 2002 Vatan, that is one of the best Sancerre ever made, IMO.
 
originally posted by VLM:
VLW?

this is what happens when you drink too much CA wine

I had a 2011 Vatan a couple weeks back and have a 2005 in the queue.

I think we've had this discussion - the 05 is the freaking biggest dry white that I happen to love. I think it measures way beyond anything the label says. So I am drinking it - but slowly, once every 2-3 years. Some bottles will need to age, whatever happens.

I think that Rougeard was very successful in 2003, but I'm not sure that I have any Clos, but Poyeux and Bourg have both been excellent.
Weren't only Clos and Bourg good in 03? Did this change?
 
Weren't only Clos and Bourg good in 03? Did this change?
I have always preferred them pretty strongly.

I think P is very well-drained, which was not the thing for 2003. To my taste, there is water stress and under-ripe tannin in the P.
 
Shame you didn't include the 2006 in the tasting - I really like that wine and would've been interested in your comparisons to 2005 and 2011.
 
A bottle of 2002 generously popped by .sasha when I was lucky enough to be around a few years ago is what made it clear to me that last night's bottle of the 2002 was not what it should have been. Although you could probably tell in any case, given the performance of the other vintages.

But, man, the 2008 is also way up there too, in my opinion. I don't know if it is one of the best Sancerre ever made, but it's certainly one of the best I have ever tasted. If anyone is looking to sell some, please let me know.
 
originally posted by Michael Lewis:
A bottle of 2002 generously popped by .sasha when I was lucky enough to be around a few years ago is what made it clear to me that last night's bottle of the 2002 was not what it should have been. Although you could probably tell in any case, given the performance of the other vintages.

can't claim the honour

wrong vintage (2005?) or wrong man (SFJoe?) ?
 
originally posted by VLM:
Too bad about the 2002 Vatan, that is one of the best Sancerre ever made, IMO.

I remember drinking a fair bit of that in Paris when I was a grad student and it was not even close to 'expensive'. I knew that I was living special moments because the wine was so good and made every setting seem more delightful, but little did I know what would happen to the price. Such is life.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
originally posted by Michael Lewis:
A bottle of 2002 generously popped by .sasha when I was lucky enough to be around a few years ago is what made it clear to me that last night's bottle of the 2002 was not what it should have been. Although you could probably tell in any case, given the performance of the other vintages.

can't claim the honour

wrong vintage (2005?) or wrong man (SFJoe?) ?

May have been SFjoe, although until now I had been confident you were the responsible culprit. Mas La Grillade with SFjoe, Kirk, Chelsea, Sharon, Robert, visiting out of town French guests, and their two young children that (mostly) slept while the adults ate and drank. There were some lovely wines, and then some wines that should have been at least interesting but for being corked ('82 Trollat, 1960s Huet). '02 Vatan was one of the lovely ones.
 
originally posted by maureen:
Shame you didn't include the 2006 in the tasting - I really like that wine and would've been interested in your comparisons to 2005 and 2011.

If I had any I would have brought it! Now I am intrigued
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:
Too bad about the 2002 Vatan, that is one of the best Sancerre ever made, IMO.

I remember drinking a fair bit of that in Paris when I was a grad student and it was not even close to 'expensive'. I knew that I was living special moments because the wine was so good and made every setting seem more delightful, but little did I know what would happen to the price. Such is life.

Yeah, I know. $25, those were the days. I wish I had thought of cellaring some 1996...
 
originally posted by maureen:
Shame you didn't include the 2006 in the tasting - I really like that wine and would've been interested in your comparisons to 2005 and 2011.

Really? The 2006 was one that I didn't think would make bones and drank what few bottles I had quickly. IIRC, 2006 was harder to come by than 2005.
 
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