A very nice Madiran

Z

Zachary Ross

Zachary Ross
2005 Chteau d'Aydie Madiran Od d'Aydie

80% Tannat, 10% Cab Franc, 10% Cab Sauv, partially aged in new oak, the rest in old foudres. I've been looking forward to trying d'Aydie's wines, and this is the real deal. The Od is the entry-level Madiran, with the Chateau d'Aydie (100% Tannat, new oak) above it. Initially it was very tight, but with a little air and vigorous swirling it opened up some. There's a bark-like woodsy element on the nose and a trace of bitter cocoa on the finish, but otherwise there's little sense of oak. The wine is structured gorgeously, with awesome acidity and formidable but classy tannins framing the fruit.

Outstanding Madiran. This wine speaks of Tannat like few I've had; overall it most resembles the 2005 Etxegaraya Iroulguy Cuve Lehengoa, only it's just a bit more forthcoming with the fruit. This is the first 2005 Madiran I've had the chance to try, and I really hope the others are as special.

Edit: I realize now I have had a couple 2005 Madirans: the Berthoumieu Cuvee Charles de Batz (oaked to death), and the Labranche-Laffont Vieilles Vignes (oaked and softened by microoxygenation, but still pretty good). Neither had the austere purity of the Od d'Aydie.
 
It was $22. I really appreciated the wine for its transparency -- so many Madirans these days are swamped with oak, softened with micro-oxygenation, or both. In the best hands (Montus/Bouscass) a wine of distinction may emerge, but more often than not one gets International Soup. The Lehengoa has been a favorite of mine, so the comparison to that is very favorable.

I'm going to try to get more of this Od. The Chateau d'Aydie was $30; I'll post a note when I get to it.
 
It's a second wine, but it's a serious one. I don't believe that it is a "young vines" cuve. It is merely the non-100% Tannat/100% new oak cuve of this Chateau. While many producers only include 60% Tannat in their "entry level" cuves (the AOC minimum), the Od has 80%, so even on that level it signals that it is meant to be taken seriously.

Are you in NY? I would like to organize a Madiran-Cassoulet jeebus for some time earlyish in the new year. Interested?
 
I am on Roosevelt Island. Some people consider that part of NY, some aren't sure, given the long history of hosting undesirables. Typhoid Mary stayed here briefly, but went on to greater fame on other islands.

As a young winegeek I was very much fascinated with Madiran, but I've lost touch over the last half-decade. I think I still have a magnum or two of the '88 Montus Prestige somewhere. Always up for a reason to eat duck fat.

On a side note, I would be wary of a wine that signals that it wants to be taken seriously.
 
Roosevelt Island is bewitching but at least a tram and the F-Train go there. It's Governor's Island that gives me the heebie-jeebies.

I'll let you know about the duck fat.
 
originally posted by Zachary Ross:
Roosevelt Island is bewitching but at least a tram and the F-Train go there. It's Governor's Island that gives me the heebie-jeebies.

I'll let you know about the duck fat.
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Oh, we Roosevelt Islanders sensibly look down on those Governor's Island barbarians. And don't get me started on the kind of riff-raff who live on Randall's Island! Feh!
 
This sounds nice, but, aiya!, too young!, even if you are a tannin pig.
I'd buy this and stick in a dark corner for 10-15 years.
 
originally posted by Zachary Ross:

Are you in NY? I would like to organize a Madiran-Cassoulet jeebus for some time earlyish in the new year. Interested?
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i am in NYC and would be very interested in said jeebus. who distributes the d'aydie?
 
Nice! That makes a few of us now interested. Earlier this year a group of geeks, some of us disorderlies, gathered for an Irouleguy-Cassoulet affair at a swell BYO NY restaurant called La Sirene -- good cassoulet, great time. I was thinking of doing the same, only with Madiran. I'll post something to the jeebus board soon.

I forget the name of the importer (will check bottle tonight), but their web site redirects to the store I bought it from, so I imagine they are one and the same.

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www.aocfinewines.com

Prices there are a little high, but shipping to NY is free, so it all works out.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
That reminds me, I'd sure like to learn how to make confit. Thanks, Zachary.
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It's easy and fun (well, I enjoy it). I've made it a few times in order to make cassoulet, which is a major project but utterly worth doing. Rillettes are also awesome.

I've used this confit recipe, adding in the breasts along with the wings and legs/thighs:

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www.epicurious.com

I typically go to a butcher and order two whole ducks with the breasts, wings, and legs/thighs removed, and then trim the skin and fat off from the rest of the carcass (with kitchen shears) and render my own duck fat -- produces just about enough for the confit recipe (if not I buy one cup of d'Artagnan duck fat). I then make duck stock with the leavings.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
That reminds me, I'd sure like to learn how to make confit. Thanks, Zachary.
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Ian,
Making confit ain't at all tough (unless you use too high a temp [snicker]). Take duck legs or whatever beast you're working with, place in kosher salt mixed with thyme and store for 1-2 days at refrigerator temperature. Wash the salt off the meat, dry thoroughly and place into molten duck fat (or, barring that, lard) along with a coarsely chopped onion and some thyme sprigs. Poach in fat held to under 200F for an hour (for regular duck legs) or two (for goose legs or Moulard duck). When the meat is done, the fat should be completely rendered from beneath the skin and the meat should have a somewhat greyish appearance. Remove the meat from the fat, strain the fat and heat until all the water is boiled off. Put the confit in a storage container and pour molten fat over it until meat is completely covered. If you used enough salt and let it sit long enough with the meat, the confit can be stored at cellar temperature for long periods of time. If less salt is used (as in most modern recipes) the confit should be consumed within 1-2 months of making.

Mark Lipton
 
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