TN: Jayson's Bday (Apr 28, 2015)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Jayson, Victor, Brad, Craig, Marty, Sasha, Jay , Jeff

We're at the Milling Room because, well, Sasha is always there. That's how it seems, anyway.

And Jayson Cohen is suddenly 45 so it's time to pull a few corks. Scott Bryan throws together a menu for us:

Plate: Hamachi Tartare... chewy, oily, but the spiky citrus and sprouts make it go pop

F. Cotat 2005 Chavignol Rose - tangy, minerally, like gravel and rainwater and, if you look carefully, spring flowers, wow wine for the AFWE

Taittinger 2004 Champagne Brut, Blanc de Blancs, "Comtes de Champagne" - at first this tastes like a good white burgundy from a skimpy year, lean and taut; with some air, it just explodes with fruit, flavor, shapely acidity, worth the wait

Dom. de Chevalier 1978 Graves Blanc - change gears; mentally stimulating wine, waxy, a touch of maderization, gently tingly, Brad says the oak is too prominent and so is the caramel; this is a Gregorian chant wine

Between plates

Knoll 2001 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Vinothekfullung - L/F 635402, I know this nose: it's rice crackers with soy, the palate is old-lady handkerchief and hard candy (or maybe Cracker Jack and blood orange); it's a lot, anyway, and most people find it too heavy

Dom. Perignon 1990 Champagne Brut - OK on entry but rapidly turns bitter, Brad calls a nose of Special K cereal; heat damage, perhaps

Dominus 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon - just a taste from another table... still impossibly youthful, blueberries, mud, and shoe polish, others like it better than me

Plate: Seared Salmon... another rich little dish, with a tasty roasted endive, but not my fave though it goes really well with the Cotat

Huet 2007 Vouvray "Le Haut Lieu" "Franc de Pied" - well, it absolutely screams Vouvray (chalk, yellow fruit, a whiff of orange oil) but no one can get a grip on the sweetness... it was demi-sec originally, we think, but it comes across pretty dry now

Prince de Merode 1976 Corton "Bressandes" - c'est vieux, mon cher; citrusy but bony, Sasha and Jay both say this has lost a lot of charm after being opened a while

Plate: Rabbit Papperdelle... the menu says "aromatic" and boy it sure is

Breton 1985 Bourgueil "Les Perrieres" - extremely strong green pepper nose but then light on the palate; balance is not good though there's nothing technically wrong

Texier 2006 Cotes du Rhone "Brezeme" "Dom. Pergault" - appealing Rhone syrah but still tight and sturdy, Jay says it opened up later

Ch. Grand-Puy-Lacoste 1995 Pauillac - drinking well, hits all the usual Bordeaux notes, still somewhat tannic and still a vivid robe

Bod. Faustino 1970 Rioja GR "Faustino I" - delicate, red-fruited, delightful, a pretty girl with fine features

Plate: Duck Breast, beautifully cooked though somewhat salty

Ch. La Mission Haut Brion 1964 Graves - gorgeous, just what an old Bordeaux should be: tannins resolved, red fruit moving in a citrus direction, a touch of VA, Brad calls it "a campfire in a bottle" (it's praise but I'm not really sure what he means)

Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou 1970 Saint-Julien - similar to the La Miss but a bit more vivid, a bit of mint, I'm getting sloshed so there isn't much more written

Plate: Assorted Cheese or Assorted Sweet Dessert

Burklin-Wolf 1970 Wachenheim Gerumpel Riesling Beerenauslese - it is really dark brown, The Fish called it a "Cola TBA" (on FaceBook, later), very sweet, all raspberries and iodine, yum

Many thanks to Sasha and Brad for the planning, Scott for the cooking, and Jayson for keeping his molecules together for all that time!
 
Huet 2007, no??

A particularly young bottle of 70 Ducru, unless I was no longer in a state to judge.

A very unusual bottle of La Miss - recorked in 2003, with the fact prominently displayed on the label.

Great showing for Brezeme 06. Yay Eric!!!

Anyone love the Breton besides Craig and me?

That I loved the Tattinger with all that unresolved dosage is some serious tribute to the wine.

And last but not least, I agree on Cotat except, given that I drink lots of this stuff from many vintages, this one is unusual - more density, and therefore the fact that it maintains the qualities you describe is amazing.
 
Dom. de Chevalier 1978 Graves Blanc - change gears; mentally stimulating wine, waxy, a touch of maderization, gently tingly, Brad says the oak is too prominent and so is the caramel; this is a Gregorian chant wine

No polyphony? Then it's all about the bass?
 
originally posted by MarkS:
Dom. de Chevalier 1978 Graves Blanc - change gears; mentally stimulating wine, waxy, a touch of maderization, gently tingly, Brad says the oak is too prominent and so is the caramel; this is a Gregorian chant wine

No polyphony? Then it's all about the bass?

Yes. Resinous and resonant.
 
Happy belated to Jayson!

I had the 2006 Brézème Pergaud from Eric not too long ago and it was sensational. Interesting to hear about the regular. I don't even think about aging the regular for any significant amount of time these days. I look at it as a wine to drink 2-3 years post release.

I have a real soft spot for Tattinger Comptes. What is the doasage there that .sasha says isn't integrated?

Overall, how is the food? I followed Scott Bryan to his last place, but didn't know where he landed after that.
 
originally posted by VLM:

Overall, how is the food? I followed Scott Bryan to his last place, but didn't know where he landed after that.

What he said. I didn't realize that Scott Bryan had turned up somewhere else since Apiary.

Mark Lipton
 
He was briefly at Bacchanal last spring/summer, post-Apiary. Managed to get there twice, while he was there. He was doing great things, but the wine list was weird—some kind of tie-in with Harry's Bar. It was all unknown lower-end things and wacky fancy stuff. He apparently left because he didn't like the kitchen space/layout.

I ate at the Milling Room last night and thought the food was tastily old-school. The space is vast, as well. The wine list is odd, but I have been told that Tuesdays are BYO. Opted for some fizz from the list and corkage, last night.
 
originally posted by VLM:
Happy belated to Jayson!

I had the 2006 Brézème Pergaud from Eric not too long ago and it was sensational. Interesting to hear about the regular. I don't even think about aging the regular for any significant amount of time these days. I look at it as a wine to drink 2-3 years post release.

Oops! Pergaud it was. Jeff, please fix.

I have a real soft spot for Tattinger Comptes. What is the doasage there that .sasha says isn't integrated?

Greater than zero.

Overall, how is the food? I followed Scott Bryan to his last place, but didn't know where he landed after that.

how much notice do you need for a dinner there? I have an idea.
 
I have the 06 Brezeme regular and had a bottle recently. I think it is just starting to come into its own. As usual, VLM likes his wines way to young.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
originally posted by VLM:
Happy belated to Jayson!

I had the 2006 Brézème Pergaud from Eric not too long ago and it was sensational. Interesting to hear about the regular. I don't even think about aging the regular for any significant amount of time these days. I look at it as a wine to drink 2-3 years post release.

Oops! Pergaud it was. Jeff, please fix.

I have a real soft spot for Tattinger Comptes. What is the doasage there that .sasha says isn't integrated?

Greater than zero.

Oh, thanks. Very helpful

Overall, how is the food? I followed Scott Bryan to his last place, but didn't know where he landed after that.

how much notice do you need for a dinner there? I have an idea.

A week or two and it has to be on a Friday or Saturday night, most likely. Have been yearning for a NY trip.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
I have the 06 Brezeme regular and had a bottle recently. I think it is just starting to come into its own. As usual, VLM likes his wines way to young.

If it is showing spectacularly, then by definition it isn't too young.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by .sasha:
originally posted by VLM:
Happy belated to Jayson!

I had the 2006 Brézème Pergaud from Eric not too long ago and it was sensational. Interesting to hear about the regular. I don't even think about aging the regular for any significant amount of time these days. I look at it as a wine to drink 2-3 years post release.

Oops! Pergaud it was. Jeff, please fix.

I have a real soft spot for Tattinger Comptes. What is the doasage there that .sasha says isn't integrated?

Greater than zero.

Oh, thanks. Very helpful

Overall, how is the food? I followed Scott Bryan to his last place, but didn't know where he landed after that.

how much notice do you need for a dinner there? I have an idea.

A week or two and it has to be on a Friday or Saturday night, most likely. Have been yearning for a NY trip.
I am in discussions right now with an NYC law firm about another expert witnessing gig. If plans do come together for an NYC shindig, I may be able to fit it into my plans.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
I have the 06 Brezeme regular and had a bottle recently. I think it is just starting to come into its own. As usual, VLM likes his wines way to young.

If it is showing spectacularly, then by definition it isn't too young.

But you thought it should be drunk up by now, when it was too young, given that it is just now starting to come into its own--at least so say I.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
I have the 06 Brezeme regular and had a bottle recently. I think it is just starting to come into its own. As usual, VLM likes his wines way to young.

If it is showing spectacularly, then by definition it isn't too young.

But you thought it should be drunk up by now, when it was too young, given that it is just now starting to come into its own--at least so say I.

The young are hard to teach.
 
originally posted by VLM:
A week or two and it has to be on a Friday or Saturday night, most likely. Have been yearning for a NY trip.

But BYO at MR is on Tuesdays. We need to work on this.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
originally posted by .sasha:

Anyone love the Breton besides Craig and me?

No.

Yeah, this was one of those rare wines that, like the '78 LdH Tondonia, I didn't like back in the late '90's and, despite a change in palate, still don't like. It still smells and tastes like potting soil and geraniums to me.

A most enjoyable evening, though, with good peeps and wine. My WOTN was the '64 La Mission, which was smoky, velvety, earthy and still showed fruit. Most seductive. No problem being a homer as, hey, I only bring wines to dinner that I really like. So, that said, I really enjoyed the '70 Faustino, which was one of the best showings I've had of it. Sadly, my last bottle, but the birthday boy deserves a birth year wine. I also really enjoyed the Huet, which showed white flowers, chalk and quince and did seem more sec than demi-sec.

I was odd man out on a few wines. The Cotat Rose did nothing for me and I found the '70 Ducru annoyingly minty. As far as the '78 DDC Blanc goes, I thought it was fine, it's just I'm not fond of White Bordeaux. DDC happens to make the best white Bordeaux I've had and the '64 is pretty amazing, but this was no '64.

I should also add the '91 Dominus was showing beautifully. Tied for my second favorite red of the night. I think the '95 Grand Puy Lacoste still needs more time in the cellar.
 
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