2009 Domaine Gauby Les Calcinaires VdP Côtes Catalanes 13.0%
With oysters. A bit on the plump side, as befits vintage and latitude, but still a treat. The delish oysters, not too briny, might have been better matched with something more acidic.
2014 Clos Roche Blanche Gamay 12.0%
With yummy lamb sausage. Very fresh and herbaceous, with tons of thyme on its hands. Joy in a bottle.
PSA: last of the mohicans available at Eli’s for $50. Go, wine disorder!
2006 Clos Rougeard Saumur Champigny Les Poyeux 12.5%
With tasty rib-eye and, later, a cheese plate. Nouveau wood generates silky textures and curvy flavors that I habitually find contemptible, for reasons both mental and sensory; here the senses developed a mind of their own and fell head over heels with this particular gestalt, leaving unanchored reason grasping for headspace. Sumptuous and memorable, despite the occasional groveling cry of “Objection, your honor!”