Charvin with Charvin

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Sharon Bowman

Sharon Bowman
Last night, Arno Tronche hosted a dinner at Racines NY with the wines of Laurent Charvin and the man himself. A fascinating evening of food (THE FIRST MORELS OF THE SEASON!!!1!!), wine (a number of vintages paired off to good effect, from 2000 to 2013), and talk with the winemaker.

If anyone had any questions, these wines are really good, and good because they are thoughtful and balanced, like the man who makes them.

Here is Arno's picture, which I like:

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We had a discussion here a year and a half ago, and someone had mentioned the 2001. I found it the most thrilling last night, and in a perfect place.

The 2004 was pretty lovely, too.
 
I didn't have any other vintages to make a comparison with but a bottle of the 2001 in October was likewise fantastic, much more refreshing than I expected.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
We had a discussion here a year and a half ago, and someone had mentioned the 2001. I found it the most thrilling last night, and in a perfect place.

The 2004 was pretty lovely, too.
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The 04 is one of those wines I can't get enough of. I haven't had the 11 since it was released, but I expect it to be in its class. Actually, I haven't had any of the CdPs after the 08 since their release (mostly these days, I'm drinking 04s, 05s, 06s and 08s), so reports on them would be of interest.

Laurent is one of those winemakers who make his wine more interesting to drink after you've talked with him.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
Laurent is one of those winemakers who make his wine more interesting to drink after you've talked with him.
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Completely agree. Just fantastic.

And, let it be stated that he expressed the highest regard for our own Comrade Prof Loesberg and the many illuminating conversations shared over the years. He was thrilled to talk about them.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
I haven't had the 11 since it was released, but I expect it to be in its class. Actually, I haven't had any of the CdPs after the 08 since their release (mostly these days, I'm drinking 04s, 05s, 06s and 08s), so reports on them would be of interest.
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Unfortunately, we didn't have the '11—and I remember expressing odd doubts about it the last time Charvin came up.

The flights were:

2000 & 2001

2003 & 2004

2007 & 2008

2012 & 2013

And in each, it was so interesting, because there was a silky or lean one and then a round and ripe one. A little nursery rhyme of flights; Jack sprat could eat no fat, his wife could eat no lean. (Well, within the framework of the overall elegance and balance of Charvin's style.)

I'm sad we didn't get to have the beloved 2006, but Arnaud was apparently unable to get his hands on any. Laurent says it is one of his own favorite vintages, too. One of the lightest on its toes.

In any case, the 2003 was fantastic and totally avoided the vintage's pruniness. The 2008 was from a lean, green year, and the friend across the table from me didn't like it at all, whereas I thought it was interesting; perhaps a little disjointed and bony-elbowed, but that was part of its way. 2007 was too ripe for me.

Ditto the pair of 2012, 2013. Fat guy, skinny guy. But both too young for me to get a good handle on at the moment.

I'll have to explore these wines more.
 
originally posted by Vincent Fritzsche:
That does look good. This is the kind of Chateauneuf I've always loved the best. How are the more recent models? I haven't kept up.
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I feel like the style has remained true, and certainly Laurent himself says that he hasn't shifted; it was a little harder for me to taste the very young ones, though.
 
I will remember to bring an 06 when I get to NY. Laurent's changed his tune a little on it as he used to prefer the 04 when we tasted them together. But that was a few years ago. I may like the 08 better than you do. I agree that the 03 has really come out quite nicely. It did taste heavy to my a couple of years ago, but was great this past December. It gives me hope for the 07.
 
I have loved 2008, but more in the past than recently. Mine seem to be developing more quickly than I expected, which, given the vintage, may just be a statement of my own expectations. Early on, it was red fruited and delicate. The more recent bottles have been tired, though even tired, they are interesting wines.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
originally posted by Vincent Fritzsche:
That does look good. This is the kind of Chateauneuf I've always loved the best. How are the more recent models? I haven't kept up.
Click to expand...

I feel like the style has remained true, and certainly Laurent himself says that he hasn't shifted; it was a little harder for me to taste the very young ones, though.
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All good to hear, thank you.
 
Neat. I've always enjoyed their CdR.

Interesting you're on to 2005 and beyond, Jonathan. I'm still stuck at the turn of the century. But I guess I've been there a while, so perhaps it's time to move on.

We did have a sublime 99 Charbonniere H Brusquieres the other night.
 
originally posted by BJ:
Neat. I've always enjoyed their CdR.

Interesting you're on to 2005 and beyond, Jonathan. I'm still stuck at the turn of the century. But I guess I've been there a while, so perhaps it's time to move on.

We did have a sublime 99 Charbonniere H Brusquieres the other night.
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I'm stuck there, too, in part 'cos we're drinking less CdP than before. Heck, I'm still waiting on a couple of '95s. Then again, a magnum of 2005 Pegau was the hit of a recent-ish party.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
We had a discussion here a year and a half ago, and someone had mentioned the 2001. I found it the most thrilling last night, and in a perfect place.

The 2004 was pretty lovely, too.
Click to expand...

Laurent is one of my favorite visits!

As for the wines:

Those are two of my favorite recent vintages from Charvin. In fact, I toasted the departure of my head shill counterpart with a 2004 that I purchased from him before becoming his minion and now chief shill successor.
 
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