Recent wines Fla Jim style

VLM

VLM
I've been drinking well lately but have mostly been chatting and not paying super close attention.

2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken
2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb
I was late to the party with Falkenstein and had corked bottles of the 2014s when I attempted to try them. These wines have been revelatory for me and have become staples at our table. The trocken is like Briords from riesling and just a fascinating, intense wine. The Spätlese feinherb is ethereal and easy to drink, but quite serious if you take a moment and pay attention.

I've given myself over to my love of M“connais whites and luckily for me, my wife loves them too. Especially Bongran whhich is like no other wine I know.
2011 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E.J.Thévenet
Thi sis open and flamboyant. Rich, layered and silky. Seems to carry some rs but it has so much heft. Fantastic with cheese and worked with some homemade Sichuan ma la chicken.
2010 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E.J.Thévenet
This is more reticent than the 2011 whle also showing richness. A little bit of cellar tiime should smooth out the roguh edges.
2008 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E.J.Thévenet
This vintage is much more defined than the previous two. Lighter on it's feet and less obviously marked by botrytis. Should age really well so the last 2 bottles I have are in the do not touch zone for a few years.

2013 Eric Texier Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban Blanc Domaine de Pergaud
All marsanne from old vines raised in tajanes (sp?) if I am not mistaken. Golden color and rich pitted fruit on the nose but on the palate that richness is allayed by a real mineral spine. The kind of oxidative style is evident (at least I think that's where it is from) but it reatins real freshness and length. I don't consider myself a marsanne guy, but this was excellent. I've been enjoying Northern Rhône white more and more lately. Who knew?

1995 Ch“teau Pradeaux Bandol
Yikes! This is a leathery, horsey, somewhat scary rendition of this wine. I don't mean to imply brett, just sullenness and anger. Not anywhere near maturity but maybe this is what it is? Serve with some hearty stew or hold.

2001 Eric Texier Côte-Rôtie Vieilles Vignes
Same meal as the Pradeaux and a bottle direct from Eric's cellar. He was correct that this was on point. Tannins are resolved and the nose has added mature notes to overlay the fruit (of the red shade). The palate is graceful and elegant. Ready to go now but should hold here for a while.

2011 Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots
Delicious and light on its feet. Has some spicey, woodsy notes to the crunchy red fruits. Not particularly tannic, at least doesn't seem so with food. Shapely and graceful. I really liked this a lot. No overt CO2.
2011 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Griffe du Marquis
Same dinner as the above and a nice comparison. Really silky, velvety mouthfeel. The fruit is round and of the blue shade with nice floral notes to match. Less obvious structure than the 2010 but also longer and better shaped. Really delicious now but should age gracefully for a while.
2009 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive
Holy cow! This is a fruit bomb and really delicious right out of the gate. We needed more wine and I quickly decanted it so I was worried that the Coudert structure would override the vintage generosity. I didn't buy many 2009s and most others have been disappointments, but not this. It's nice to have a Tardive that doesn't take forever to come around (2005). Driving fruit corraled by the classic mineral spine. The fruit overwhelmed any tannic presence I could detect.

2008 Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée
For my palate, this is ready to go. The tannin may not be fully resolved, but the structure has given way a bit and the wine is gentle on the palate. The nose still conveys fruit but has also added sous bois complexity. No overt CO2.
2008 Louis Boillot et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
Seemed more clenched than previous bottles but maybe that is due to the proximity of the above. Still, this is a really lovely bottle even if it will be better in a few years. The depth of the fruit nicely offsets the structure of the year. Maybe I'm imagining it, but I really do see a familial sensibility with the Barthod wines if a bit less finely etched. The fruit tends towards the blue and the other notes are solidly Gevrey. No overt CO2.

2010 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Ghemme Collis Carellae
I've been drinking through a bunch of Alto Piedmont wines lately. First, we love them and they are a staple of our table. Second, I took advantage of a great sale from Max at Wine Connection to load up on multiple vintages of multiple producers. This 2010 is much more tightly wound than the 2007 or 2009 of the same wine that I've had recently. Still, it delivers the taught, mouthwatering nebbiolo fruit that is more tart and juicy than its southerly brethren. I'm going to sit on this vintage for a couple of years before trying another one, but it isn't backwards in the way of Barolo, it's more that it isn't as aromatic as the 2007 and 2009.

2012 Eric Texier Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud
From magnum. At a BBQ where lamb done in a NC style was the main attraction and consumed out of plastic cups. All that said, it was a mouthful of syrah deliciousness on a cool evening outside. Probably not the fairest way to showcase it, but I needed good wine with the lamb damn it.
 
originally posted by VLM:
I don't consider myself a marsanne guy, but this was excellent. I've been enjoying Northern Rhône white more and more lately. Who knew?
Me, too. I have never had a palate for N. Rhone whites and yet, in the past year or two, I am also finding fresher, brighter wines (and liking them).

This 2010 is much more tightly wound than the 2007 or 2009 of the same wine that I've had recently. Still, it delivers the taught, mouthwatering nebbiolo fruit that is more tart and juicy than its southerly brethren. I'm going to sit on this vintage for a couple of years before trying another one, but it isn't backwards in the way of Barolo, it's more that it isn't as aromatic as the 2007 and 2009.
I think 2010 needs more time to come around. Or maybe I'm just nostalgic for 2006 and 2007, which were so good.

2012 Eric Texier Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud
From magnum. At a BBQ where lamb done in a NC style was the main attraction and consumed out of plastic cups. All that said, it was a mouthful of syrah deliciousness on a cool evening outside. Probably not the fairest way to showcase it, but I needed good wine with the lamb damn it.
I hear you.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by VLM:
I don't consider myself a marsanne guy, but this was excellent. I've been enjoying Northern Rhône white more and more lately. Who knew?
Me, too. I have never had a palate for N. Rhone whites and yet, in the past year or two, I am also finding fresher, brighter wines (and liking them).

Ditto.

2012 Eric Texier Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud
From magnum. At a BBQ where lamb done in a NC style was the main attraction and consumed out of plastic cups. All that said, it was a mouthful of syrah deliciousness on a cool evening outside. Probably not the fairest way to showcase it, but I needed good wine with the lamb damn it.
I hear you.

Yes, lamb is a red wine vehicle readymade. I always feel like I've missed an opportunity if I eat it without red wine.

Mark Lipton

p.s. Good to hear about the '12 SJeSA. I have some of the '09 and '11 that I've been sitting on.
 
originally posted by VLM:


2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken
2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb

Good for you. I thought the 2015 KE kabinett and auslese became so much less expressive over the past year that I stopped drinking them. But it might be a long wait until the other side! I should probably get some 16s instead, and just mentioned that this morning to Russ in fact.

originally posted by VLM:
2012 Eric Texier Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud
From magnum. At a BBQ where lamb done in a NC style was the main attraction and consumed out of plastic cups. All that said, it was a mouthful of syrah deliciousness on a cool evening outside. Probably not the fairest way to showcase it, but I needed good wine with the lamb damn it.

Also a wine (along with the 13) that I've been eyeing and wanting to drink, but always end up waiting to avoid awkwardness.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:


2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken
2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb

Good for you. I thought the 2015 KE kabinett and auslese became so much less expressive over the past year that I stopped drinking them. But it might be a long wait until the other side! I should probably get some 16s instead, and just mentioned that this morning to Russ in fact.

The 2016s have landed locally, I just haven't grabbed mine yet.

originally posted by VLM:
2012 Eric Texier Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud
From magnum. At a BBQ where lamb done in a NC style was the main attraction and consumed out of plastic cups. All that said, it was a mouthful of syrah deliciousness on a cool evening outside. Probably not the fairest way to showcase it, but I needed good wine with the lamb damn it.

Also a wine (along with the 13) that I've been eyeing and wanting to drink, but always end up waiting to avoid awkwardness.[/quote]

I find that the SJSE can be enjoyed young unlike most vintages of the Brézème Pergaud, which really needs some time. That isn't to say it won't improve with some age just that it will deliver young. That being said, I've yet to try a bottle of 2013 (but we're selling it at a decent clip at Rue Cler so people must think ti is showing well).
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
This 2010 is much more tightly wound than the 2007 or 2009 of the same wine that I've had recently. Still, it delivers the taught, mouthwatering nebbiolo fruit that is more tart and juicy than its southerly brethren. I'm going to sit on this vintage for a couple of years before trying another one, but it isn't backwards in the way of Barolo, it's more that it isn't as aromatic as the 2007 and 2009.
I think 2010 needs more time to come around. Or maybe I'm just nostalgic for 2006 and 2007, which were so good.

Yeah, the 2007 is showing really well now and I don't imagine the 4 bottles I have left will last that long. Fortunately, there seems to be a bunch in the market so I can re-up. Can't recall if I've had the 2006, but I really loved the 90s iterations of these wines (except I had an incredibly high corked rate on the 1996 Breclemae).
 
originally posted by VLM:


I find that the SJSE can be enjoyed young unlike most vintages of the Brézème Pergaud, which really needs some time. That isn't to say it won't improve with some age just that it will deliver young.

Agreed. Definitely more accessible than the Brézème, but sometimes after a fun glass or two I get tired of the young primary one-note fruit in young StAlban. So then I think that the full bottle will be more compelling with more age. Maybe it's a personal thing.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:


I find that the SJSE can be enjoyed young unlike most vintages of the Brézème Pergaud, which really needs some time. That isn't to say it won't improve with some age just that it will deliver young.

Agreed. Definitely more accessible than the Brézème, but sometimes after a fun glass or two I get tired of the young primary one-note fruit in young StAlban. So then I think that the full bottle will be more compelling with more age. Maybe it's a personal thing.

I also don't usually have more than half a bottle since I'm generally sharing with at least one other person. Maybe the thinking is the same it's just the circumstances that differ.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:


2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken
2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb

Good for you. I thought the 2015 KE kabinett and auslese became so much less expressive over the past year that I stopped drinking them. But it might be a long wait until the other side! I should probably get some 16s instead, and just mentioned that this morning to Russ in fact.

I've had similar experiences with many different growers' 2015ers and am also leaving them alone. The trockens are the exception. They seem to be less awkward right now.
 
VLM- how would you characterize the difference between Roally and Bongran? I've generally cellared and loved the former. While its on my radar, I don't have any experience with Bongran.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by VLM:
I don't consider myself a marsanne guy, but this was excellent. I've been enjoying Northern Rhône white more and more lately. Who knew?
Me, too. I have never had a palate for N. Rhone whites and yet, in the past year or two, I am also finding fresher, brighter wines (and liking them).

WTF is wrong with you people? Rhone whites are NOT for those who hate high alcohol, glyceriny, viscous wines. These are not the wines for you -- stay away!

(Where's the secret handshake when you need it?)
 
originally posted by Brian C:
VLM- how would you characterize the difference between Roally and Bongran? I've generally cellared and loved the former. While its on my radar, I don't have any experience with Bongran.

The Roally, as good as it is, is generally a half step down from the Bongran. There are different Bongran cuvees, which generally (but not uniformly) have more RS. Botrytis tends to show up more in the Bongran, including in some dryer cuvees.

I like the comment "like no other wine I know" - that's a good description. It reminds me of an Alsatian Gewurtz or Pinot Gris in Burgundy.

We visited the domaine a ways back - like in 01 or so - and had a really nice time. I know we did not taste with Jean - I think it was with his son Gauthier.

Big fan here - though I haven't seen or drunk it in some time.
 
originally posted by Brian C:
VLM- how would you characterize the difference between Roally and Bongran? I've generally cellared and loved the former. While its on my radar, I don't have any experience with Bongran.

I think you need to distinguish between Roally under Henri Goyard and since Thevenet fils has taken over. Goyard's wines, at least in the 1990s and based on my limited experience, were much more like Bongran but with even more precision, despite having no shyness about botrytis and a little RS. The Roally wines under Thevenet have been tamer, with less botrytis and concentration and not quite as interesting as Bongran, good and fair value, but not at the Goyard level.
 
1995 Ch“teau Pradeaux Bandol
Yikes! This is a leathery, horsey, somewhat scary rendition of this wine. I don't mean to imply brett, just sullenness and anger. Not anywhere near maturity but maybe this is what it is? Serve with some hearty stew or hold.

Just had an obviously more youthful 2006 a couple weeks ago that was very enjoyable.
 
I have maybe still a couple of the 88s and 89s of Pradeaux. They were still not ready at least in 2010. Maybe more recent ones mature more quickly. I like wines that need some age, but I'm too old for wines that need 30-50 years.
 
originally posted by al ehrhardt:
1995 Ch“teau Pradeaux Bandol
Yikes! This is a leathery, horsey, somewhat scary rendition of this wine. I don't mean to imply brett, just sullenness and anger. Not anywhere near maturity but maybe this is what it is? Serve with some hearty stew or hold.

Just had an obviously more youthful 2006 a couple weeks ago that was very enjoyable.

I found that 2006 to be the easiest young vintage Pradeaux I've ever tasted.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
I have maybe still a couple of the 88s and 89s of Pradeaux. They were still not ready at least in 2010. Maybe more recent ones mature more quickly. I like wines that need some age, but I'm too old for wines that need 30-50 years.

The 1989-1990 duo may be immortal. I haven't had the 1988 in a good while, but I remember that it seemed to have a chance to be nice sooner.
 
originally posted by VLM:
2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken
2015 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb
I was late to the party with Falkenstein and had corked bottles of the 2014s when I attempted to try them. These wines have been revelatory for me and have become staples at our table. The trocken is like Briords from riesling and just a fascinating, intense wine. The Spätlese feinherb is ethereal and easy to drink, but quite serious if you take a moment and pay attention.

I like the Weiser-Künstler Kabinett trocken wines, too, in a somewhat similar vein.
 
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