Impressions October 2020, Part I

VLM

VLM
Continuing exploration of Chenin Blanc wines new too me or new vintages including a nice Jeebus with Jayson, Rahsaan and John that has been noted elsewhere. What a treat to be able to see folks in person (and have them come to us).

2009 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (10/2/2020)
The nose jumps out with brambly, earthy, dark fruit. The palate follows that lead with sap and richness and while this is the naturally more fruited Beaux Bruns it is still Barthod thus a bit of air brings shape. There is a nice rocky, soil tone underneath and a leathery savory edge I associate with Barthod wines this vineyard. I'm really happy with how this is showing now and I expect it will continue to improve in this partially resolved and still fruit-filled rendition for several years. This is a really nice spot for me where the structure has opened enough to let you in but before the fruit has started to become tertiary. (93 points)

2018 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/3/2020)
Compared to the Graacher Himmelreich this was much creamier. It was like a slate shake with Mirabelle plum. Airy and light on its feet but still seems to lack a bit of thrust which I imagine is the vintage. I wonder if this is one of those Prum's where in a few years you'll get more of the underlying acidity. (91 points)

2011 Flavio Roddolo Nebbiolo d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Nebbiolo d'Alba (10/3/2020)
This bottle was even better than the last one we had. It was one of those rare moments when I really wanted a glass of red wine. It was late afternoon on Saturday and all my chores were done. The dappled light through the trees and the crisp air presaged the true beginning of Autumn. I wanted something autumnal. Sweet and spiced cherry compote with just a whiff of sous bois and a leathery/savory undertone. It takes about 30-45 minutes for the tannins to come out and they never overwhelm the fruit and body of the wine, they just provide a pleasant bite. Maybe not a peacock's tail of complexity but the notes that are there are crystal clear and pure. What a wonderful, soulful bottle of wine that perfectly fir the moment. This is a bottle with emotion. (93 points)

2009 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (10/4/2020)
We're on something of a Mugneret-Gibourg tear right now. Probably because the weather is turning more towards Autumn and, well, fuck it. This is the best bottle of the Vosne that I've had in as long as I can remember. It takes the generous fruit of the vintage and melds it into a beautiful package of silky berry and red currant fruit with a defined mineral spine that skates along the tannin. Lovely shape and a bit of Vosne spice (although, seemingly less than recent Chaignots, shrug). Air brings out floral elements and just a hint of cocoa powder earthiness on the palate. Every sip was beautiful. For me, entering a great drinking phase and I'd drink a ton of it if I had a ton of it. (92 points)

2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
Had the lightest body of the three Huet Secs today and seemed a bit airy and a different texture than the other two. Should mature earlier and a bit of time may bring more complexity as the open bottle improved with a few hours of air. Flavors are citric with a bit of flowers and hay. (91 points)

2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
This is a classic Le Mont sec. Lemon oil gastro droplets wrapped in a mineral shell. Driving and linear with mouthwatering acids. Real intensity and focus. A great version of this and it should age if the pre-mox thing is worked out. Worth trying now for the youthful intensity. (93 points)

2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
While others preferred the Le Mont, the Clos du Bourg was my favorite today. Whereas the the Le Mont was a laser beam of citric minerals the Bourg was an infinite bath of stones. Deep flavors of pear blossom, white peach and even more stones. Powerful and resolute. If we can trust the corks and everything else, this could end up being a modern monument to Vouvray. As good as any Chenin Blanc I've had in a while. Again, worth trying now to experience it in its youth. Honestly, if I stock up on these I might just drink them whenever I want as I find the youthful expression invigorating. (94 points)

2019 Brendan Stater-West Saumur - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (10/5/2020)
I might be a little hard on this due to the company but it was a very nice version of Chenin Blanc from Saumur. Not particularly deep, but bright lemon curd and minerals. Good balance and a bit of floral lift. (89 points)

2003 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (10/5/2020)
I've had better bottles of this and it did deepen during the evening but didn't show the monumental depth of fruit that past bottles have shown. The first whiff showed some reduction but once that blew off it had a nose that was a bit green in an herbal cream kind of way. You start to get the deep dark fruit and bedrock with some air and a dark earth gravitas. A regal wine for sure but maybe the low temperature outside didn't allow it to show its best. (92 points)

2015 Eric Morgat Savennières Fides - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (10/6/2020)
I haven't had a Morgat wine in years and can't remember the last vintage or wine I tried. Brassy color but not oxidative. Rich and luscious without ever losing shape. Heady for sure, but lots of complex Savennières notes of lanolin, yellow fruits, honeycomb and shells. Has good shape and grip and light on its feet for its size, no easy trick. It fell off after a night in the fridge so I'm not sure what that means for cellaring. It's really good now so I don't think it's necessary to wait. (92 points)

2010 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (10/7/2020)
So different from the Sunier it may as well have been from a different planet. A nicely resolved version of this with leafy, soil driven undertones and spice leading to the core of red fruits rather than being behind them. A bit of mineral earth and a bite of lingering tannin on the finish. This is well in their drinking window for my palate. (91 points)

2019 Julien Sunier Fleurie - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (10/7/2020)
A luscious, bumptious version of Fleurie. Lots of ripe berry fruit barely held from bursting by the structural elements. Sort of a berry/floral hard candy element. A bit of spice mixes in but it is the exuberant fruit that leaves the lasting impression. It's been a while since I've had such a joyful, fruity Beaujolais Cru and it may have been just slightly more than was called for here but managed to hold its shape despite the richness (it wasn't overripe or flabby, just lots). Not sure what age will bring, though if I were to bet I think a few years might calm everything down a bit. (91 points)
 
originally posted by VLM:
2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
This is a classic Le Mont sec...Worth trying now for the youthful intensity. (93 points)

2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
Honestly, if I stock up on these I might just drink them whenever I want as I find the youthful expression invigorating. (94 points)

I recently had bottles of these at home and at first my reactions were similar. There was indeed so much invigorating intensity that they were both fun to drink. But as the bottles got more and more air and I paid more attention, I couldn't help feeling that they're both still so tight relative to what development will occur. Not sure I'm rushing to open another bottle right now.

originally posted by VLM:
2015 Eric Morgat Savennières Fides - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (10/6/2020)
I haven't had a Morgat wine in years and can't remember the last vintage or wine I tried. Brassy color but not oxidative. Rich and luscious without ever losing shape. Heady for sure, but lots of complex Savennières notes of lanolin, yellow fruits, honeycomb and shells. Has good shape and grip and light on its feet for its size, no easy trick. It fell off after a night in the fridge so I'm not sure what that means for cellaring. It's really good now so I don't think it's necessary to wait. (92 points)

Thanks for this. I haven't been keeping up with Morgat (or Savennières more broadly) either, and it's nice to hear the combo of rich, luscious and light on its feet. Sometimes I get inspired to dabble in Savennières again, but the heady alcohols of 14-15% often thwart that inspiration.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Thanks, Monkey, esp. for the Beaujolais notes. I have some '10 Coudert, regular and Griffe, and I was wondering about them.

I've had mixed luck with that particular vintage of Griffe but I think Michael Lewis has had better experiences.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:
2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
This is a classic Le Mont sec...Worth trying now for the youthful intensity. (93 points)

2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
Honestly, if I stock up on these I might just drink them whenever I want as I find the youthful expression invigorating. (94 points)

I recently had bottles of these at home and at first my reactions were similar. There was indeed so much invigorating intensity that they were both fun to drink. But as the bottles got more and more air and I paid more attention, I couldn't help feeling that they're both still so tight relative to what development will occur. Not sure I'm rushing to open another bottle right now.

I would like to get enough to be able to try bottles every year for the rest of my life but (hopefully) that will be longer than I really have cellar space to devote to two wines. As we all know, Huets that have good corks can hit this plateau that seems inifinite.

originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by VLM:
2015 Eric Morgat Savennières Fides - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (10/6/2020)
I haven't had a Morgat wine in years and can't remember the last vintage or wine I tried. Brassy color but not oxidative. Rich and luscious without ever losing shape. Heady for sure, but lots of complex Savennières notes of lanolin, yellow fruits, honeycomb and shells. Has good shape and grip and light on its feet for its size, no easy trick. It fell off after a night in the fridge so I'm not sure what that means for cellaring. It's really good now so I don't think it's necessary to wait. (92 points)

Thanks for this. I haven't been keeping up with Morgat (or Savennières more broadly) either, and it's nice to hear the combo of rich, luscious and light on its feet. Sometimes I get inspired to dabble in Savennières again, but the heady alcohols of 14-15% often thwart that inspiration.

Likewise, I've been off Savennières for similar reasons but coming back to and exploring Chenin Blanc means trying all sorts of things. I have no idea if this balancing act can last, sort of like with Mosse Savennières, but it's really enjoyable now so why bother. I actually am starting to really value wines where the sweet spot is earlier and I also think that the sweet spot is earlier than it used to be for many wines. I'm kind of over fetishizing old wine.
 
Excellent note on the 2019 Huet le Mont--pretty much nailed it with the combination of liveliness and linearity. I like the vineyard most years, but 2019 seems particularly successful. And as you say, certainly drinkable now, but I expect it will develop nicely. Wine retailer shipped me an extra case by mistake, so I guess I will have no trouble trying this over time.

I had actually ordered the 2019 Huet Clos du Bourg, which is now on its way. Looking forward to trying it soon.

I do think the old mantra that these required many many years to come around is no longer correct (if it ever was). Not to say they are drinking at their peak in Year 1-2, but they are certainly expressive and lively when youthful...
 
originally posted by Carl Steefel:
Excellent note on the 2019 Huet le Mont--pretty much nailed it with the combination of liveliness and linearity. I like the vineyard most years, but 2019 seems particularly successful. And as you say, certainly drinkable now, but I expect it will develop nicely. Wine retailer shipped me an extra case by mistake, so I guess I will have no trouble trying this over time.

I had actually ordered the 2019 Huet Clos du Bourg, which is now on its way. Looking forward to trying it soon.

I do think the old mantra that these required many many years to come around is no longer correct (if it ever was). Not to say they are drinking at their peak in Year 1-2, but they are certainly expressive and lively when youthful...

These two secs really were quite magical. In the past I have often been skeptical about the secs given how ornery they could be, young or old, but the way these 2019 wines’ playful acidity drove the flavor profiles was thrilling. I hate to say this, but is this a new mode that global warming unlocked?
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Carl Steefel:
Excellent note on the 2019 Huet le Mont--pretty much nailed it with the combination of liveliness and linearity. I like the vineyard most years, but 2019 seems particularly successful. And as you say, certainly drinkable now, but I expect it will develop nicely. Wine retailer shipped me an extra case by mistake, so I guess I will have no trouble trying this over time.

I had actually ordered the 2019 Huet Clos du Bourg, which is now on its way. Looking forward to trying it soon.

I do think the old mantra that these required many many years to come around is no longer correct (if it ever was). Not to say they are drinking at their peak in Year 1-2, but they are certainly expressive and lively when youthful...

These two secs really were quite magical. In the past I have often been skeptical about the secs given how ornery they could be, young or old, but the way these 2019 wines’ playful acidity drove the flavor profiles was thrilling. I hate to say this, but is this a new mode that global warming unlocked?

I'd expect global warming to make the wines flabbier, not racier, but they would take less years to come around.
 
originally posted by VLM:

2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
Had the lightest body of the three Huet Secs today and seemed a bit airy and a different texture than the other two. Should mature earlier and a bit of time may bring more complexity as the open bottle improved with a few hours of air. Flavors are citric with a bit of flowers and hay. (91 points)

2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
This is a classic Le Mont sec. Lemon oil gastro droplets wrapped in a mineral shell. Driving and linear with mouthwatering acids. Real intensity and focus. A great version of this and it should age if the pre-mox thing is worked out. Worth trying now for the youthful intensity. (93 points)

What is the latest reporting on the p'ox chez Huet?

I just opened my last two bottles of 2002 Huet, trying to assess whether its worth the $$ to me to cellar some bottles of the 2019s.

The Haut-Lieu demi-sec was, I deem, very slightly corked, just enough to rob the wine of flavor and aroma. This is my assessment of wines that keep me taking sip after sip, feeling like I've just missed something that should be really good, which eventually leads to a migraine. I've learned to stop after the first few sips.

The le Mont demi-sec is genuine wine, not outright oxidized, but, I fear, past its prime. Many good components are in place, and the sugars have substantially resolved into an attractive, round texture, but the intensity and lingering finish of a Vouvray in its prime are not there. Other than this bottle, I've been relatively fortunate with my 02 Mont demi, only one obviously bad bottle, I think.

Abstracting from the effects of age, the flavors of the le Mont don't make a persuasive case for stocking up on more Huet. OTOH, demi-sec is not sec, the winemaking has changed, and I've found myself liking the 2012 Bourg sec more and more as it ages. So ... who knows?

The best Vouvray I've had within the past few years was a 2008 Chidaine Bouchet, which elicited a genuine chorus of 'alleluia' from a heavenly host of angles. Or something like that. In any event, damn good stuff - despite my increasing disenchantment with sweet(ish) wines.
 
Ian, I’m not sure I understand what you are contemplating. If ditching the 02s, seems like a reasonable proposition. I did long ago despite continued reports of randomly spectacular bottles among the duds. If ditching Huet altogether, I’m not sure how you extrapolated or otherwise got there and I highly recommend against it. I say without equivocation that in the post-2002 period they have made my favorite Chenin wines from that period as compared to all others.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Carl Steefel:
Excellent note on the 2019 Huet le Mont--pretty much nailed it with the combination of liveliness and linearity. I like the vineyard most years, but 2019 seems particularly successful. And as you say, certainly drinkable now, but I expect it will develop nicely. Wine retailer shipped me an extra case by mistake, so I guess I will have no trouble trying this over time.

I had actually ordered the 2019 Huet Clos du Bourg, which is now on its way. Looking forward to trying it soon.

I do think the old mantra that these required many many years to come around is no longer correct (if it ever was). Not to say they are drinking at their peak in Year 1-2, but they are certainly expressive and lively when youthful...

These two secs really were quite magical. In the past I have often been skeptical about the secs given how ornery they could be, young or old, but the way these 2019 wines’ playful acidity drove the flavor profiles was thrilling. I hate to say this, but is this a new mode that global warming unlocked?

I'd expect global warming to make the wines flabbier, not racier, but they would take less years to come around.

I think you missed my point but maybe I did not articulate it well. The secs historically could be austere / ornery, sometimes shrill, when young. So I’m asking if global warming has contributed to bringing a different and to me more attractive shape to these wines. Not flabbiness but a balance I enjoy more.
 
Maybe I did not articulate it well.

I haven't been opening my cellared Huet's in a while, and wanted to put my palate back in the picture, as to what the cast of their wines is like. The old wines seemed like a reasonable place to start, because I'd expect to hold the 2019s for 10 years and up, if I buy any. Having opened the Haut-Lieu and finding it unresponsive, I moved to the le Mont. I posted notes, because folks on this board are often interested in such things.

However, I take your admonition to heart, and have pulled out a bottle of 2012 Bourg sec to open this week, hoping to draw a better bead on what I might expect, in terms of general profile - Bourg sec being what I'm most likely to purchase.

Cheers.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
I'd expect global warming to make the wines flabbier, not racier, but they would take less years to come around.

I imagine this expectation would be borne out in the long-run. It's also plausible to imagine a transition period, in which small increases in ripeness may improve balance with acidity. I don't think the relationship between acidity and ripeness during a given growing season is linearly inverse - that is, a unit of acidity is lost for every unit increase in ripeness.

So the path to flabbiness may be strewn with a few gems along the way.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Maybe I did not articulate it well.

I haven't been opening my cellared Huet's in a while, and wanted to put my palate back in the picture, as to what the cast of their wines is like. The old wines seemed like a reasonable place to start, because I'd expect to hold the 2019s for 10 years and up, if I buy any. Having opened the Haut-Lieu and finding it unresponsive, I moved to the le Mont. I posted notes, because folks on this board are often interested in such things.

However, I take your admonition to heart, and have pulled out a bottle of 2012 Bourg sec to open this week, hoping to draw a better bead on what I might expect, in terms of general profile - Bourg sec being what I'm most likely to purchase.

Cheers.

Got it. Also 2012 was a difficult year so if it is getting better and better, that’s a good sign!
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
I'd expect global warming to make the wines flabbier, not racier, but they would take less years to come around.

I imagine this expectation would be borne out in the long-run. It's also plausible to imagine a transition period, in which small increases in ripeness may improve balance with acidity. I don't think the relationship between acidity and ripeness during a given growing season is linearly inverse - that is, a unit of acidity is lost for every unit increase in ripeness.

So the path to flabbiness may be strewn with a few gems along the way.

Yes. That’s similar to what I’m positing although if we get to a world where the choice is between Vouvray that is high alcohol or Vouvray that is flabby, none of us will be happy. Neither will the growers.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
I'd expect global warming to make the wines flabbier, not racier, but they would take less years to come around.

I imagine this expectation would be borne out in the long-run. It's also plausible to imagine a transition period, in which small increases in ripeness may improve balance with acidity. I don't think the relationship between acidity and ripeness during a given growing season is linearly inverse - that is, a unit of acidity is lost for every unit increase in ripeness.

So the path to flabbiness may be strewn with a few gems along the way.

Yes. That’s similar to what I’m positing although if we get to a world where the choice is between Vouvray that is high alcohol or Vouvray that is flabby, none of us will be happy. Neither will the growers.

Obviously "high alcohol" is in the eye of the beholder. 2019 LHL Sec is 13% and it doesn't show that much. 2019 Le Mont and CdB are 13.5, which is 0.5 too high for me. Others certainly won't care until they reach 14-15.
 
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
I'd expect global warming to make the wines flabbier, not racier, but they would take less years to come around.

I imagine this expectation would be borne out in the long-run. It's also plausible to imagine a transition period, in which small increases in ripeness may improve balance with acidity. I don't think the relationship between acidity and ripeness during a given growing season is linearly inverse - that is, a unit of acidity is lost for every unit increase in ripeness.

So the path to flabbiness may be strewn with a few gems along the way.

Yes. That’s similar to what I’m positing although if we get to a world where the choice is between Vouvray that is high alcohol or Vouvray that is flabby, none of us will be happy. Neither will the growers.

Obviously "high alcohol" is in the eye of the beholder. 2019 LHL Sec is 13% and it doesn't show that much. 2019 Le Mont and CdB are 13.5, which 0.5 too high for me. Others certainly won't care until they reach 14-15.

Agree 100%, both on your overall calibration and that people have different views on this. 13.5% is getting high to me, and I will really start to worry if Vouvray heads into 14-15 like Savennières has. But I wasn’t seeing any excess on 2019 Huets personally even if 13.5 is about my limit and gets me nervous.
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by mark e:
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
I'd expect global warming to make the wines flabbier, not racier, but they would take less years to come around.

I imagine this expectation would be borne out in the long-run. It's also plausible to imagine a transition period, in which small increases in ripeness may improve balance with acidity. I don't think the relationship between acidity and ripeness during a given growing season is linearly inverse - that is, a unit of acidity is lost for every unit increase in ripeness.

So the path to flabbiness may be strewn with a few gems along the way.

Yes. That’s similar to what I’m positing although if we get to a world where the choice is between Vouvray that is high alcohol or Vouvray that is flabby, none of us will be happy. Neither will the growers.

Obviously "high alcohol" is in the eye of the beholder. 2019 LHL Sec is 13% and it doesn't show that much. 2019 Le Mont and CdB are 13.5, which 0.5 too high for me. Others certainly won't care until they reach 14-15.

Agree 100%, both on your overall calibration and that people have different views on this. 13.5% is getting high to me, and I will really start to worry if Vouvray heads into 14-15 like Savennières has. But I wasn’t seeing any excess on 2019 Huets personally even if 13.5 is about my limit and gets me nervous.

Yup. Complete agreement. I am curious about your statement that "The secs historically could be austere / ornery, sometimes shrill, when young." When are you referring to? Pre-1990s?

When I think about shrill Vouvray, Foreau secs come to mind. And they used to be intentionally sleek (haven't tried them in about 10 years).
 
originally posted by Jayson Cohen:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Maybe I did not articulate it well.

I haven't been opening my cellared Huet's in a while, and wanted to put my palate back in the picture, as to what the cast of their wines is like. The old wines seemed like a reasonable place to start, because I'd expect to hold the 2019s for 10 years and up, if I buy any. Having opened the Haut-Lieu and finding it unresponsive, I moved to the le Mont. I posted notes, because folks on this board are often interested in such things.

However, I take your admonition to heart, and have pulled out a bottle of 2012 Bourg sec to open this week, hoping to draw a better bead on what I might expect, in terms of general profile - Bourg sec being what I'm most likely to purchase.

Cheers.

Got it. Also 2012 was a difficult year so if it is getting better and better, that’s a good sign!

It was the first vintage in which the owner's daughter had assumed command as the wine-maker, IIRC, and the results were controversial: Gilman sang its praises, Kissick and another critic panned it - and were publicly shamed by the daughter for doing so. There was a lot of taking sides for a year or two, partly inspired by loyalty to the previous wine-maker of long-standing.

I went long on Bourg sec that year, for a variety of reasons, and was pretty pissed when I opened my first bottle, which was nothing like the Huets I'd owned previously. It is still hardly typical, but not quite the basket case it appeared to be at first. Here's a note from May 2019:

"A reasonably. good bottle; as always, this vintage is especially highly acidic, though it mellows a bit after the first day. Not sure where these are headed. Good now with food, though less appealing on its own; hard to read what it will be like in 3-5 years. Drank over several days, during which it tired very slowly, so don't feel there's any rush."

Do you have any recent notes?

Cheers.
 
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