Continuing exploration of Chenin Blanc wines new too me or new vintages including a nice Jeebus with Jayson, Rahsaan and John that has been noted elsewhere. What a treat to be able to see folks in person (and have them come to us).
2009 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (10/2/2020)
The nose jumps out with brambly, earthy, dark fruit. The palate follows that lead with sap and richness and while this is the naturally more fruited Beaux Bruns it is still Barthod thus a bit of air brings shape. There is a nice rocky, soil tone underneath and a leathery savory edge I associate with Barthod wines this vineyard. I'm really happy with how this is showing now and I expect it will continue to improve in this partially resolved and still fruit-filled rendition for several years. This is a really nice spot for me where the structure has opened enough to let you in but before the fruit has started to become tertiary. (93 points)
2018 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/3/2020)
Compared to the Graacher Himmelreich this was much creamier. It was like a slate shake with Mirabelle plum. Airy and light on its feet but still seems to lack a bit of thrust which I imagine is the vintage. I wonder if this is one of those Prum's where in a few years you'll get more of the underlying acidity. (91 points)
2011 Flavio Roddolo Nebbiolo d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Nebbiolo d'Alba (10/3/2020)
This bottle was even better than the last one we had. It was one of those rare moments when I really wanted a glass of red wine. It was late afternoon on Saturday and all my chores were done. The dappled light through the trees and the crisp air presaged the true beginning of Autumn. I wanted something autumnal. Sweet and spiced cherry compote with just a whiff of sous bois and a leathery/savory undertone. It takes about 30-45 minutes for the tannins to come out and they never overwhelm the fruit and body of the wine, they just provide a pleasant bite. Maybe not a peacock's tail of complexity but the notes that are there are crystal clear and pure. What a wonderful, soulful bottle of wine that perfectly fir the moment. This is a bottle with emotion. (93 points)
2009 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (10/4/2020)
We're on something of a Mugneret-Gibourg tear right now. Probably because the weather is turning more towards Autumn and, well, fuck it. This is the best bottle of the Vosne that I've had in as long as I can remember. It takes the generous fruit of the vintage and melds it into a beautiful package of silky berry and red currant fruit with a defined mineral spine that skates along the tannin. Lovely shape and a bit of Vosne spice (although, seemingly less than recent Chaignots, shrug). Air brings out floral elements and just a hint of cocoa powder earthiness on the palate. Every sip was beautiful. For me, entering a great drinking phase and I'd drink a ton of it if I had a ton of it. (92 points)
2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
Had the lightest body of the three Huet Secs today and seemed a bit airy and a different texture than the other two. Should mature earlier and a bit of time may bring more complexity as the open bottle improved with a few hours of air. Flavors are citric with a bit of flowers and hay. (91 points)
2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
This is a classic Le Mont sec. Lemon oil gastro droplets wrapped in a mineral shell. Driving and linear with mouthwatering acids. Real intensity and focus. A great version of this and it should age if the pre-mox thing is worked out. Worth trying now for the youthful intensity. (93 points)
2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
While others preferred the Le Mont, the Clos du Bourg was my favorite today. Whereas the the Le Mont was a laser beam of citric minerals the Bourg was an infinite bath of stones. Deep flavors of pear blossom, white peach and even more stones. Powerful and resolute. If we can trust the corks and everything else, this could end up being a modern monument to Vouvray. As good as any Chenin Blanc I've had in a while. Again, worth trying now to experience it in its youth. Honestly, if I stock up on these I might just drink them whenever I want as I find the youthful expression invigorating. (94 points)
2019 Brendan Stater-West Saumur - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (10/5/2020)
I might be a little hard on this due to the company but it was a very nice version of Chenin Blanc from Saumur. Not particularly deep, but bright lemon curd and minerals. Good balance and a bit of floral lift. (89 points)
2003 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (10/5/2020)
I've had better bottles of this and it did deepen during the evening but didn't show the monumental depth of fruit that past bottles have shown. The first whiff showed some reduction but once that blew off it had a nose that was a bit green in an herbal cream kind of way. You start to get the deep dark fruit and bedrock with some air and a dark earth gravitas. A regal wine for sure but maybe the low temperature outside didn't allow it to show its best. (92 points)
2015 Eric Morgat Savennières Fides - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (10/6/2020)
I haven't had a Morgat wine in years and can't remember the last vintage or wine I tried. Brassy color but not oxidative. Rich and luscious without ever losing shape. Heady for sure, but lots of complex Savennières notes of lanolin, yellow fruits, honeycomb and shells. Has good shape and grip and light on its feet for its size, no easy trick. It fell off after a night in the fridge so I'm not sure what that means for cellaring. It's really good now so I don't think it's necessary to wait. (92 points)
2010 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (10/7/2020)
So different from the Sunier it may as well have been from a different planet. A nicely resolved version of this with leafy, soil driven undertones and spice leading to the core of red fruits rather than being behind them. A bit of mineral earth and a bite of lingering tannin on the finish. This is well in their drinking window for my palate. (91 points)
2019 Julien Sunier Fleurie - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (10/7/2020)
A luscious, bumptious version of Fleurie. Lots of ripe berry fruit barely held from bursting by the structural elements. Sort of a berry/floral hard candy element. A bit of spice mixes in but it is the exuberant fruit that leaves the lasting impression. It's been a while since I've had such a joyful, fruity Beaujolais Cru and it may have been just slightly more than was called for here but managed to hold its shape despite the richness (it wasn't overripe or flabby, just lots). Not sure what age will bring, though if I were to bet I think a few years might calm everything down a bit. (91 points)
2009 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod / Barthod-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (10/2/2020)
The nose jumps out with brambly, earthy, dark fruit. The palate follows that lead with sap and richness and while this is the naturally more fruited Beaux Bruns it is still Barthod thus a bit of air brings shape. There is a nice rocky, soil tone underneath and a leathery savory edge I associate with Barthod wines this vineyard. I'm really happy with how this is showing now and I expect it will continue to improve in this partially resolved and still fruit-filled rendition for several years. This is a really nice spot for me where the structure has opened enough to let you in but before the fruit has started to become tertiary. (93 points)
2018 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (10/3/2020)
Compared to the Graacher Himmelreich this was much creamier. It was like a slate shake with Mirabelle plum. Airy and light on its feet but still seems to lack a bit of thrust which I imagine is the vintage. I wonder if this is one of those Prum's where in a few years you'll get more of the underlying acidity. (91 points)
2011 Flavio Roddolo Nebbiolo d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Nebbiolo d'Alba (10/3/2020)
This bottle was even better than the last one we had. It was one of those rare moments when I really wanted a glass of red wine. It was late afternoon on Saturday and all my chores were done. The dappled light through the trees and the crisp air presaged the true beginning of Autumn. I wanted something autumnal. Sweet and spiced cherry compote with just a whiff of sous bois and a leathery/savory undertone. It takes about 30-45 minutes for the tannins to come out and they never overwhelm the fruit and body of the wine, they just provide a pleasant bite. Maybe not a peacock's tail of complexity but the notes that are there are crystal clear and pure. What a wonderful, soulful bottle of wine that perfectly fir the moment. This is a bottle with emotion. (93 points)
2009 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (10/4/2020)
We're on something of a Mugneret-Gibourg tear right now. Probably because the weather is turning more towards Autumn and, well, fuck it. This is the best bottle of the Vosne that I've had in as long as I can remember. It takes the generous fruit of the vintage and melds it into a beautiful package of silky berry and red currant fruit with a defined mineral spine that skates along the tannin. Lovely shape and a bit of Vosne spice (although, seemingly less than recent Chaignots, shrug). Air brings out floral elements and just a hint of cocoa powder earthiness on the palate. Every sip was beautiful. For me, entering a great drinking phase and I'd drink a ton of it if I had a ton of it. (92 points)
2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
Had the lightest body of the three Huet Secs today and seemed a bit airy and a different texture than the other two. Should mature earlier and a bit of time may bring more complexity as the open bottle improved with a few hours of air. Flavors are citric with a bit of flowers and hay. (91 points)
2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
This is a classic Le Mont sec. Lemon oil gastro droplets wrapped in a mineral shell. Driving and linear with mouthwatering acids. Real intensity and focus. A great version of this and it should age if the pre-mox thing is worked out. Worth trying now for the youthful intensity. (93 points)
2019 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (10/5/2020)
While others preferred the Le Mont, the Clos du Bourg was my favorite today. Whereas the the Le Mont was a laser beam of citric minerals the Bourg was an infinite bath of stones. Deep flavors of pear blossom, white peach and even more stones. Powerful and resolute. If we can trust the corks and everything else, this could end up being a modern monument to Vouvray. As good as any Chenin Blanc I've had in a while. Again, worth trying now to experience it in its youth. Honestly, if I stock up on these I might just drink them whenever I want as I find the youthful expression invigorating. (94 points)
2019 Brendan Stater-West Saumur - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (10/5/2020)
I might be a little hard on this due to the company but it was a very nice version of Chenin Blanc from Saumur. Not particularly deep, but bright lemon curd and minerals. Good balance and a bit of floral lift. (89 points)
2003 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Le Bourg - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (10/5/2020)
I've had better bottles of this and it did deepen during the evening but didn't show the monumental depth of fruit that past bottles have shown. The first whiff showed some reduction but once that blew off it had a nose that was a bit green in an herbal cream kind of way. You start to get the deep dark fruit and bedrock with some air and a dark earth gravitas. A regal wine for sure but maybe the low temperature outside didn't allow it to show its best. (92 points)
2015 Eric Morgat Savennières Fides - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (10/6/2020)
I haven't had a Morgat wine in years and can't remember the last vintage or wine I tried. Brassy color but not oxidative. Rich and luscious without ever losing shape. Heady for sure, but lots of complex Savennières notes of lanolin, yellow fruits, honeycomb and shells. Has good shape and grip and light on its feet for its size, no easy trick. It fell off after a night in the fridge so I'm not sure what that means for cellaring. It's really good now so I don't think it's necessary to wait. (92 points)
2010 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (10/7/2020)
So different from the Sunier it may as well have been from a different planet. A nicely resolved version of this with leafy, soil driven undertones and spice leading to the core of red fruits rather than being behind them. A bit of mineral earth and a bite of lingering tannin on the finish. This is well in their drinking window for my palate. (91 points)
2019 Julien Sunier Fleurie - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (10/7/2020)
A luscious, bumptious version of Fleurie. Lots of ripe berry fruit barely held from bursting by the structural elements. Sort of a berry/floral hard candy element. A bit of spice mixes in but it is the exuberant fruit that leaves the lasting impression. It's been a while since I've had such a joyful, fruity Beaujolais Cru and it may have been just slightly more than was called for here but managed to hold its shape despite the richness (it wasn't overripe or flabby, just lots). Not sure what age will bring, though if I were to bet I think a few years might calm everything down a bit. (91 points)